Upgrade to towing wiring

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cerd

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We put a down payment on a new Starcraft trailer. Weight of 6500lbs. We plan to tow it twice a year to a seasonal spot and back with a 2005 Durango. The Hemi AWD with 3.92 gears is rated for 8700lbs, which shouldn't be an issue. We have shore power and city water on site, so I will likely just take out the batteries from the rig and leave it dry. Unlike our MH, we will never dry camp with this one. The only thing we plan to add to it is blankets, a few pots and pans, a dorm fridge in the basement and an ice maker (probably only 200lbs worth of stuff when all is said and done). The dealer is also including a WD hitch, which I realize are fairly heavy, but I will still be quite a bit under the tow rating.

The RV dealer was skeptical, but I am pretty confident in the weight vs the rating.

My main concern is that I just replaced the bumper with a like new one from a 2008 since the old one rusted out. I added some drain holes and caps to reduce moisture inside the bumper frame, which is how the old one rusted to begin with. But since the 2008 7 -pin connector has a different housing than the 2005, I need to rewire the 7-pin connector and I might as well add a brake controller.

Anybody have any recommendations? I am looking at a Reese or Curt. Should I stick with analog or is there any benefit to a digital brake controller?
Also, there should be a connector under the dash already since this had the factory tow package, but I still need to look inside to find it and check the wiring to make sure it is large enough.

As I recall, the factory connector only had 16AWG wires to all of the 7-pin pins, so I will beef that up to 8AWG since I have that laying around rather than buying a new spool of 10AWG.

Should I be looking at anything else? I do have a PS cooler and Trans cooler already installed from factory (also as part of the tow package)
 
Keep in mind you will need to put the battery back in when you tow again. This will operate the electric brakes if the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle
 
Brake controllers are inherently analog - they send variable voltage to the trailer brakes. The "digital" part is just the visible control panel. If only towing twice a year, I'd probably buy a cheap model, but if you want the best controller get a Tekonsha P-series model.

I doubt if 8 gauge wire will fit in the 7-pin connector, but give it a try.
 
Keep in mind you will need to put the battery back in when you tow again. This will operate the electric brakes if the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle
Excellent point. We are planning on leaving the rig over the summer and connected to shore power while it is there. I don't see a point in leaving good batteries to just sit all summer, so I was going to swap the ones on the new rig into the old rig that we use for dry camping and I will install a battery when we transport it.

Brake controllers are inherently analog - they send variable voltage to the trailer brakes. The "digital" part is just the visible control panel. If only towing twice a year, I'd probably buy a cheap model, but if you want the best controller get a Tekonsha P-series model.

I doubt if 8 gauge wire will fit in the 7-pin connector, but give it a try.
I have never needed a brake controller before, but I was under the impression that the digital ones are more than just the display. I was looking at the REESE 8507111 and it has 2 sets of buttons for both gain and sync. I understand the basic concept of the brake controllers, which should mean the gain function is for the strength of the signal, but I am not sure what the sync function is for.

Edit: the description of the Reese 8507111 says the sync is for time delay for the trailer brakes compared to the car brakes.
 
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Time delay brake controllers start out with a light brake application and ramp the trailer brakes on more heavily the longer you hold the brake pedal down. Not in proportion to how hard you're braking, just how long you hold the pedal down. They're cheap to make but not ideal for towing.

Better brake controllers are true proportional. They use an accelerometer to measure how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply the trailer brakes in proportion to that braking force. Lightly if the tow vehicle is only slowing a little bit, more aggressively during a panic stop.
 
Time delay brake controllers start out with a light brake application and ramp the trailer brakes on more heavily the longer you hold the brake pedal down. Not in proportion to how hard you're braking, just how long you hold the pedal down. They're cheap to make but not ideal for towing.

Better brake controllers are true proportional. They use an accelerometer to measure how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply the trailer brakes in proportion to that braking force. Lightly if the tow vehicle is only slowing a little bit, more aggressively during a panic stop.
Can you post a few examples for me to look at? I haven't seen those.
 
According to my owners manual, there should have been a pigtail in the glove box and a connector above the brake for an aftermarket brake controller. The pigtail would be long gone since I bought this vehicle used, but I only see one connector under the panel and its white with 2 green wires coming out of it; which is definitely not what I am looking for.
 
So I finally found the brake controller wiring. The previous owners cut the connector off. The wires were taped off behind the harness between the brake pedals. I need to extend the wires to reach the controller anyways, so I will just crimp on some extensions.

Also, Hopkins makes an OEM fit 7/4 trailer connector with gasketed spring loaded doors that fits right into the socket on this bumper, so I should be golden.

I went with the Reese 8508211, which is proportional and since I don't like the bracket that screws into the dash, I am going to install it into the center cubby hole by the 12v power socket that would otherwise be useless.

I'll post pics when I finish the job.
 
I know its been a while, but I finally got a moment to snap a picture of the installation. I put it in the center console since I didn't want my knee to bump into it on the dash and this cubby is really to small to have any purpose.
 

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Awesome. Make use of what you have. My old 2003 F-250 had a little pocket like that. Pretty worthless except for something like that! Perfect.
 
If you are going to leave it plugged into 110 all the time put the battery in or you are going to damage the charger in the converter.
 

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