water heater questions

[elkriverrats]

Hi all! Sorry if this is wordy.
Picked up our new to us motorhome on Thu after having warranty work done (dealer gave us 30 days).  One issue was the hot water heater.  Worked fine on gas but nothing on electric. 
Response from dealer on review sheet "Gas only HWH, no electric, wo"
I found this hard to believe since there was a switch under the sink for elec hot water (which the tech showed us during our final walk through) and one of the fuses is labeled hot water....shop manager insisted it was gas only.
After a search online I found a picture of the second switch located on the heater itself.  It was toggled off so I flipped it to the on position about an hour ago and am waiting to see if I have hot water using elec. We used it with gas this weekend (was turned off about 8 hours ago) so I'm not sure if I am getting leftover warm water from this morning or if it is slowly warming under elec.
I have attached an image. Is it possible this is a gas only model?  I also found the original paperwork for the unit which lists a 6 gal lpg/elec water heater.  I have tons of paperwork so if it was replaced I feel pretty confident I would have found something for a replacement in the binder.
If this is indeed an electric water heater, what should my next step be to troubleshoot?  I understand that I should take it to the dealer, however, I am not inclined to if it is something I can easily and cheaply fix myself.  I will post my experience online with this particular dealer at some point if that is allowed under forum rules, but that would be a much longer post haha
Thanks for any help!

 

[Great Horned Owl]

There isn't enough of the area shown in your photo to be able to tell. If it is electric, there may be a line visible cord going to the heater element. Checv to see if 120 vac is present there.

It is not uncommon for the heating elements to burn out if they are switched on with an empty tank. They are generally not hard to replace, and are not very expensive.

Joel

 

[Rene T]

Also, we could use the name and model number of the water heater, not the HOT water heater. There would be no need to heat it if it was already hot.  ;D  I couldn't help myself. Safe travels.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I don't see a electric heater element in the photo, but it is not the entire water heater either. The brand (Atwood, Suburban, American) and model number would be definitive.

 

[elkriverrats]

I'm optimistic Rene, right now its a moderately warm water heater...under gas it is a steaming hot water heater.  I'm staying hooked up on elec until morning and will recheck it then (that will be about 18 hours plugged in). The original paperwork is for a Suburban - many models listed on the manual cover page. No specific make/model on the original option sheet.  In two separate sections of the rv manual it references the LPG/110V electric water heater.  Will look at the unit in the morning to see if I can decipher anything on the labels in case it was replaced at some point.
Thanks, Joel.  I will take another picture tomorrow.
Would a gas only model have the on/off toggle on the water heater?  If so, why did it work with LP all weekend even though the switch was in the off position?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

No, the gas model doesn't have the On/Off switch on the heater itself.

It would seem your dealer is less than ethical...

 

[elkriverrats]

Thanks for that info Gary. Unfortunately, l do agree about the dealer. Don't expect perfection but no one enjoys being lied to. I plan on posting a review once I am squared away. I do love the rv and had a great weekend using it.

 

[Rene T]

Thanks for that info Gary. Unfortunately, l do agree about the dealer. Don't expect perfection but no one enjoys being lied to. I plan on posting a review once I am squared away. I do love the rv and had a great weekend using it.

You should have hot water in an hour or so on electric,  providing your element hasn't burnt out.

 

[8Muddypaws]

But don't go too crazy if the element is burned out.  They can be found at most hardware stores for under $20 and are fairly easy to change in that brand of water heater.

BTW, If you drain the water hater tank and turn on the electric element it will burn out in a very short time.  I've pulled out several that were melted in half.

Hint: carry a spare.

 

[elkriverrats]

I was hopeful it was just the switch and a lazy tech (sadly, it is not).  No hot water this morning.  Still dark here so I will try to get a better pic and find the model # after work. I also have to get it back it back to my mechanic for re-inspection - dealer had to replace rear rotor and windshield wiper motor in order to pass my state inspection ("nit=picky" items says the same shop manager!  I think that was his way of reassuring me about the repair....did not work!)
Thanks again for the tips and Happy Monday to all

 

[kjansen]

Look under the black cap at the bottom of your picture behind the gas tube just to the left of the drain plug.  I think you may find a heating element there.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

A heating element needs power wires, so that's one easy clue to follow.

I don't recognize the layout in the photo, so thinking that is not a Atwood heater. Maybe a Suburban?

What year/make/model of RV are we talking about?

 

[8Muddypaws]

That's an older suburban.  The heating element is under the black plastic cover in the lower left of the picture.  The wires are in there too.  Just as Kevin pointed out.

Easy peasy to change.  But be sure there is no power to the element when you work on it unless you're looking to light up your life. 

 

[elkriverrats]

I found a plate off to the side of the heater (not on the heater itself) that says model "SW6 DE" google gave me this link
http://www.adventurerv.net/suburban-gallon-water-heater-sw6de-p-83.html

I have attached two more photos. Could not get a close up of the on/off switch in the lower left corner but it seems you guys are already familiar...

I am going to attempt to change out the element once I find a tutorial onliine - if that doesn't work will go for the dealer again.  I anticipate a struggle since he was so adamant it was not electric. Not worth it for $20 and a 90 minute drive each way.  For a replacement heater I will argue with them.
The rv is a 2003 Coach House Platinum 270xl

Thanks for the help!  I love this forum!

 

[donn]

You!  Suburban dual HWH.  That switch tour trying to show are infamous for failing,  also under the rubber piece above that are two sets of thermostats.  The one on the left are 120VAC.  The ones on the left are for Gas operation.  Just replaced my 120 volt set after it failed.  All of 20 minutes and no need to drain the tank.  Cost, about 25 dollars.  If you get no hot water, then get your VOM out and start checking.  Inside is a junction box for connecting heater wiring to 120 volts, start there checking for voltage.  You will quickly find the problem.
Changing the electric element is maybe a 20 minute job.  Drain the water by removing the anode rod.  Remove the gas tube, remove the 4 screws holding the cover on, remove the two wires, unscrew the element.  Reverse to replace.  Check continuity of the element before buying a new one.  BTW, Lowes sells new ones for around 12 dollars.  But, my first guess you will find the temp sensor pack is bad.

 

[bucks2]

Also, we could use the name and model number of the water heater, not the HOT water heater. There would be no need to heat it if it was already hot.  ;D  I couldn't help myself. Safe travels.

My HOT water heater turns the element back on when the water gets down to 140 degrees F. 140 degrees seems hot to me. (it's a wet heat  ) You can't put your hand into 140 degree water and hold it there. Your coffee is too hot to drink at 140 degrees. Now if your water heater waits until the water is room temperature before heating again, then you indeed have just a water heater. If yours turns on and reheats at 140 like mine, then wouldn't you agree that it's heating hot water?

Ken

 

[elkriverrats]

Took the black cover off, there is voltage to the element when outside and inside switches are on. If the thermostat is bad would I get voltage on the element?
Just dropped it off to be inspected for DMV so not sure when I will have it back to troubleshoot.
I am going to email this photo to the shop manager and owner of dealership and tell them I want a replacement for whatever has failed (if I can pinpoint it without getting a replacement myself) sent to me.  They gave me a warranty, they need to honor it.  That being said, don't trust them to fix much after telling me this is not electric...

 

[John From Detroit]

I too do not see an electric heat element in the photo... That is the Gas burner and control vlave.. The difference between myself and many others is I would not EXPECT to see the electric element in that picture,, Or anywhere on that side of the water heater (But Mine is an Atwood, I'm not sure where Surburan parks the thing).

Now: Find the Water Heater's ID label.. Likely it will be one of the two makes listed above.

THEN.  Go to google. Entere:  Make, Model,  Manual

Download and all your questions SHOULD be answered.. Save a copy to hard drive and cloud drive.

 

[Rene T]

I too do not see an electric heat element in the photo... That is the Gas burner and control vlave.. The difference between myself and many others is I would not EXPECT to see the electric element in that picture,, Or anywhere on that side of the water heater (But Mine is an Atwood, I'm not sure where Surburan parks the thing).

Now: Find the Water Heater's ID label.. Likely it will be one of the two makes listed above.

THEN.  Go to google. Entere:  Make, Model,  Manual

Download and all your questions SHOULD be answered.. Save a copy to hard drive and cloud drive.

John, the last picture they posted shows the element right between the drain plug and the on/off switch. I think you may have been looking at the earlier picture.

To the original poster, if you plan on removing the element yourself, you should probably spray some penetrating oil on the element before you try to unscrew it. If the dealer is going to remove it, let them do it. If they destroy the threads in the tank, you may get a new water heater out of it.

 

[GIB]

Did you try pushing those reset buttons? When we arrived in Florida last winter the park power went out for a few seconds and eight hrs. later no hot water on the electric side. I pushed the right side one and it stayed in and then worked. It tripped one time after that and when up at DRV for warrantee work there mobile electronics man came and asked what was going on and indicated the left reset was 120 ac voltage which the contacts were fused together and the right reset button was 12 volt. He installed a new switch . It happened so quickly I suspect just a plug or two under the switch. I would probably try that first.