Water pump running longer

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johnny340

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Posts
15
Location
Vancouver, BC
On my 1999 Itasca Spirit the water pump used to run almost immediately after a faucet was turned on.  Now it seems there is a wider range of pressure tolerance because the pump doesn't turn on immediately and when it does, it runs a long time.  The pump seems to be losing it's strength.  Is there a diaphragm in it that I can change or do I simply replace the pump?  It's quite loud as well in spite of remounting it to rubber.
Thx in as advance for your replies!


Edit by John - changed message icon to Topic Solved
 
John Hilley said:
It may need a rebuild kit, however, the fact that you believe it kicks in later than before and runs longer might imply the system has more air in it and it's acting like an expansion tank.  One way this could happen quickly might be if you left the by-pass valve open after de-winterizing or the input check valve is stuck open and the air in the water heater now has to drop pressure before the pump kicks in.  And the pump would have to run longer to re-pressurize.
 
Molaker said:
It may need a rebuild kit, the fact that you believe it kicks in later than before and runs longer might imply the system has more air in it and it's acting like an expansion tank.  One way this could happen quickly might be if you left the by-pass valve open after de-winterizing or the input check valve is stuck open and the air in the water heater now has to drop pressure before the pump kicks in.  And the pump would have to run longer to re-pressurize.
This was very helpful.  I checked the valve and it was correct so to test I moved it to bypass again and the pump functioned normally for cold water.  This confirms a check valve problem because the hot water tank is acting like an expansion chamber like you said. Last year I replaced the upper check valve.  Is it a wise assumption that I need to replace the bottom one now or could the upper one (or both)  need replacing?
I can't  remember.... Are these valves a specific RV part or a hardware store item?
 
Actually, I've never had to change a check valve myself, but I think they are a common plumbing part obtainable at places like Home Depot - if you can find the correct size.  As for whether or not you should change both instead of just the bad one, who knows?  If the water you usually add to your system is very hard (lot's of minerals, etc.) then maybe it would be a good idea to change both while you are in there.  However, if your RV is several years old, the check valves have apparently lasted a long time so the one you recently installed s/b okay.
 
After all that you were right . the bypass was mislabeled and in the wrong position... I didn't realize that the valve in the wrong position would affect both hot and cold.
All is normal.  KISS principle should always apply,!
Thanks again!
 
Well I guess it's not that simple after all...
The valve must have been labled right in the first place because I don't get any hot water when it's position that has 'normal' pump behavior. In the other position I get hot water but the tank acts like an expansion chamber.  Does this mean that the check valve into the HW tank is bad again? I don't see any other check valves out of the HW tank.
Thx
 
johnny340 said:
Well I guess it's not that simple after all...
The valve must have been labled right in the first place because I don't get any hot water when it's position that has 'normal' pump behavior. In the other position I get hot water but the tank acts like an expansion chamber.  Does this mean that the check valve into the HW tank is bad again? I don't see any other check valves out of the HW tank.
Thx
Does the pump act that way with hot and cold water turned on or just hot?  If just hot, it may be the hot check valve again.  If it happens with cold as well, it is possibly the cold water check valve (assuming it has one).
 
This may sound funny, but maybe it is working the way it is supposed to - pump run time, that is.  Did the pump always come on immediately and shut off quickly ever since you obtained the MH?  How long have you had the MH?  The water heater is supposed to have some trapped air and that air can serve as an expansion chamber normally, especially if there is no check valve in the cold water feed line.  It may be that the real problem was you had lost that trapped air when the pump ran the way you thought it should.  Then after winterizing (draining then refilling the WH) the proper amount of air was replenished and the expansion chamber effect restored.  This could be simulated by opening the WH relief valve while on water pressure (city or pump) until all the air is replaced (make sure the WH is off and water NOT hot).  Then see how the water pump acts.  I suspect it would act quickly, like it used to.  However, in this state, the relief valve is likely to drip when the water is heated as there would be no place else for expansion.  To restore the air chamber, shut off the water pressure and drain the WH, then reinstall the drain plug and apply water pressure.  This little exercise might show you (we) have been chasing your tail as far as the run time of the pump is concerned.

As for the pump noise seeming to have increased...well, pumps are noisy and if it runs longer than you are accustomed then the noise may become more irritating.  Just saying...  Or, something has changed in the pump mounts or attached tubing to cause more noise.
 
Molaker said:
This may sound funny, but maybe it is working the way it is supposed to - pump run time, that is.  Did the pump always come on immediately and shut off quickly ever since you obtained the MH?  How long have you had the MH?  The water heater is supposed to have some trapped air and that air can serve as an expansion chamber normally, especially if there is no check valve in the cold water feed line.  It may be that the real problem was you had lost that trapped air when the pump ran the way you thought it should.  Then after winterizing (draining then refilling the WH) the proper amount of air was replenished and the expansion chamber effect restored.  This could be simulated by opening the WH relief valve while on water pressure (city or pump) until all the air is replaced (make sure the WH is off and water NOT hot).  Then see how the water pump acts.  I suspect it would act quickly, like it used to.  However, in this state, the relief valve is likely to drip when the water is heated as there would be no place else for expansion.  To restore the air chamber, shut off the water pressure and drain the WH, then reinstall the drain plug and apply water pressure.  This little exercise might show you (we) have been chasing your tail as far as the run time of the pump is concerned.

As for the pump noise seeming to have increased...well, pumps are noisy and if it runs longer than you are accustomed then the noise may become more irritating.  Just saying...  Or, something has changed in the pump mounts or attached tubing to cause more noise.

I'm thinking that you exactly right and this is the way it's supposed to work but never has.  This year I must have the right amount of air in the HW tank.  Previous years (with the instant pump running when water was turned on) it was actually a bit annoying and yes, water would drip past the pressure relief valve on the outside whenever the heater was on.
I think I am done chasing my tail now. Haha
 

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