Weight Distribution Hitch for smaller RV

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NorCalNate

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Joined
Oct 4, 2023
Posts
3
Location
American Canyon, CA
Been toying with the idea of getting a sway/weight distribution hitch for my Salem 185RB trailer. Towing it with 2019 Ram 1500. All specs for both trailer and tow vehicle are below. From a practicality standpoint my current setup seems totally acceptable even if I towed the trailer with its 28 gallon water tank full (adding 320-ish pounds towards the front of trailer), so I have to find a quantifiable & justifiable reason to spend the $250 - $750 for the unit.

Reasons I'm still considering buying on is:
1) The trailer feels heavier than expected when towing and made my wife a bit nervous at times
2) When we take it out its for camping/fishing trips so we load up our truck bed with camping supplies which doesn't help overall weight distribution
3) I'm all for optimizing weight distribution in order to minimize unneeded ware on my vehicle and improving overall MPG while towing

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Note: If I end up going this direction, the cheap side of me has been looking at Harbor Freight Haul-Master and Amazon units ($250-$350 range), though due to the critical nature of the components, I'd be tempted to either purchase one of the cheaper but higher-capacity Harbor Freight models (giving me comfort that the hardware should have zero problems with the weight of our setup), or biting the financial bullet and getting something from a tried-and-true industry leader.

Trailer specs:
Dry weight
= 2,881 lbs
Hitch Weight = 328 lbs

Truck specs:
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating)
= 7,000 lbs
Max Tongue Weight Capacity (approximate) = 1,000 lbs
Towing Capacity = 9,000 lbs
 
Been toying with the idea of getting a sway/weight distribution hitch for my Salem 185RB trailer. Towing it with 2019 Ram 1500. All specs for both trailer and tow vehicle are below. From a practicality standpoint my current setup seems totally acceptable even if I towed the trailer with its 28 gallon water tank full (adding 320-ish pounds towards the front of trailer), so I have to find a quantifiable & justifiable reason to spend the $250 - $750 for the unit.

Reasons I'm still considering buying on is:
1) The trailer feels heavier than expected when towing and made my wife a bit nervous at times
2) When we take it out its for camping/fishing trips so we load up our truck bed with camping supplies which doesn't help overall weight distribution
3) I'm all for optimizing weight distribution in order to minimize unneeded ware on my vehicle and improving overall MPG while towing

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Note: If I end up going this direction, the cheap side of me has been looking at Harbor Freight Haul-Master and Amazon units ($250-$350 range), though due to the critical nature of the components, I'd be tempted to either purchase one of the cheaper but higher-capacity Harbor Freight models (giving me comfort that the hardware should have zero problems with the weight of our setup), or biting the financial bullet and getting something from a tried-and-true industry leader.

Trailer specs:
Dry weight
= 2,881 lbs
Hitch Weight = 328 lbs

Truck specs:
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating)
= 7,000 lbs
Max Tongue Weight Capacity (approximate) = 1,000 lbs
Towing Capacity = 9,000 lbs
The real question is: What does your trailer weigh when full?

If your trailer dry weight is only 2880, I would guess your loaded trailer weight couldn't be more than ~3500#. A RAM 1500 with a 9000# towing capacity should be able to tow that all day long and you not even know it's back there. Now, if you are overloading your truck's cargo/payload capacity (which is everything you put in the truck + your tongue weight and at that point you would also be over your GVWR) then that could definitely affect your towing.

That being said, a WDH will never be a bad thing to have.
 
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Are you feeling excessive up and down movement or back and forth (sway) from the trailer? An equalizing hitch only helps with the former, if the trailer is moving side to side (which you can confirm by watching it in the driver's side mirror) you need an anti-sway bar.

An equalizing hitch may not be appropriate for such a small and light trailer. Ask the trailer manufacturer if the trailer's frame is strong enough to withstand the forces applied by the equalizing bars. They do their job by applying leverage on the trailer's A-frame a few feet behind the hitch ball and the amount of force they exert depends on how far they flex. In any case, don't buy a hitch rated for grossly more weight than you need. Heavier equalizing bars are stiffer than lighter rated ones and using bars with ratings far in excess of what you need will stress the trailer's frame more when they need to flex going over bumps and dips.
 
Are you feeling excessive up and down movement or back and forth (sway) from the trailer? An equalizing hitch only helps with the former, if the trailer is moving side to side (which you can confirm by watching it in the driver's side mirror) you need an anti-sway bar.

An equalizing hitch may not be appropriate for such a small and light trailer. Ask the trailer manufacturer if the trailer's frame is strong enough to withstand the forces applied by the equalizing bars. They do their job by applying leverage on the trailer's A-frame a few feet behind the hitch ball and the amount of force they exert depends on how far they flex. In any case, don't buy a hitch rated for grossly more weight than you need. Heavier equalizing bars are stiffer than lighter rated ones and using bars with ratings far in excess of what you need will stress the trailer's frame more when they need to flex going over bumps and dips.
That is a good point.
 
I know you want to not spend money on a safety devise, but look at the Hensley Arrow or Propride hitches. Look used and they will be somewhat less money. Makes a huge difference in how you feel towing a trailer. Been there and did that when we first started out. Went cheap, hated the way the truck towed the trailer, switched to a Hensley and loved it.
 
I think you are underestimating your tongue weight capacity on the truck. I have the same model and I think mine is up around 1800#.

Have you towed before? Light trailers <~2000# are not really noticeable but once you get up to 4000# you start to feel all the effects of towing and it can be weird at first.

Acceleration and slowing are very noticeable. Does your trailer have trailer brakes?

1696588878198.png
 
I am pretty sure that they recommend a WDH for 1/2 ton trucks for a trailer weighing over 5K so probably not needed for your application. That being said I have a friend who tows trailers from the factory in I am pretty sure Indiana to a dealer in NY using a F350 SD and he says he puts his WDH even with the smaller trailers so it must not hurt. If you decide to the suggestion I have is to buy one that you can back up with. I know some do not allow that.
 
Given those specs the use of a WDH is entirely optional and I doubt if you would be able to tell the difference if you installed one. Even assuming the actual trailer tongue weight is more than the 328 lb estimate (it's probably more like 400 lbs), your truck will handle it easily. Even with 500 lbs of camping gear in the truck bed.

I'm not clear on what you mean by "trailer feels heavier than expected". Could you elaborate a bit? Does the back of the truck sag down low? Jerk up and down while towing over uneven surfaces or highway expansion joints? Sway side to side? Some of those symptoms are signs of insufficient tongue weight (poor balance). A WDH would address a "sag" problem but not the others.
 
If you end up buying a WDH, look into Andersen. They are much lighter weight than the standard WDH with the spring bars. In your situation, where you probably really don't need one but might feel safer with one, it might be just the ticket. They run about $600 new, but piece of mind sometimes costs a bit.

 
Weigh your hitch when loaded and pay attention to loading. Shoot for 10 to 12 percent hitch weight. Don’t load things on the tail end of the trailer like bikes or generators.

Our trailer weighs pretty much the same as yours and tows like a dream in all conditions with no WDH or sway control. We pull behind an SUV with a very low centre of gravity but not sure if that makes a big difference.

IMG_7064.jpeg
 
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Weight
Dry Weight
2,881 lbs.
Payload Capacity
928 lbs.
Hitch Weight
328 lbs.

Which means 2881 plus 928 equals 3809 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (critical number)

Just hook that trailer to the truck, load it forward enough to give it a tongue weight of 450 to 500 lbs and it will tow like a dream. No need for a WDH. If the trailer persists in swaying with a tongue weight 13% of gross weight (498 lbs) you can get a ball mount that has a small ball on one side to connect a friction anti sway bar to.

Amazon.com

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Amazon.com

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IF the trailer tends to porpoise, causing the truck to bob up and down, a WDH will dampen that, but you will want very light spring bars with it, to prevent any damage to the trailer frame, as Gary noted.

Charles
 
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In my opinion adding a friction type sway control is like putting a band-air on a fracture. It's not very effective and addresses the symptom rather than the cause. Trailer sway is a weight balance issue, i.e.insufficient tongue weight, and best fixed by changing the weight distribution in/on the trailer.
 
In my opinion adding a friction type sway control is like putting a band-air on a fracture.
And while you are entitled to your opinion, my experience disagrees with your opinion, if you are towing a trailer that does not require a weight distributing hitch, especially the lightweight models. If using a weight distributing hitch, then I would add one either.
 

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