What is that sealer Winne uses on the roof?

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John - interesting the salesman pointed you to 4000UV.  I've had quite of experience using 5200 on the boat and found out the hard way it is permanent  :eek:, but for critical use, especially below the waterline, you couldn't beat it.

I wonder if it can be painted?  The product description I looked at didn't say one way or the other.
 
Not sure, I checked the tube and it doesn't say either...

It doesn't have the rubberness of Silicone, but does develop a much tougher skin than 5200 which seemed to always stay sorta gooey if I remember correctly. 

Your right, 5200 is the only way to go below the water line, but be sure to mask everything well and wear gloves, cause it sure can be a big mess in a hurry!


John
 
John Canfield said:
Jeff - I would call owner relations (contact info in the sticky near the top) and talk to whoever you get.  See what kind of response you get.  Let me know what they say.
Click to expand...
Quick followup: I received a return email from both Winne and CDI the following morning before I got up (West coast). Bottom line is that CDI is covering the work for $xx.xx, and my local RV repair center with a 58' air controlled and filtered paint booth agreed to do the job for said $$. The only catch was that they guarantee the job for as long as I own the coach and insisted on using their DuPont product even though CDI was going to send the materials out. All good 4 me.. :)

(edit: fixed dumb sentence)
 
Jeff - the RV dealer insisted on using their DuPont paint?  That must be the case since I think CDI uses Sherwin-Williams.  I don't blame the RV place for wanting to use a product they are familiar with.

Sounds like a very satisfactory outcome.
 
I have not read all the posts so forgive me if already said but, I had a prob with the roof completely coming out of my 2000 Journey. I used Magnus Bond 75 and it worked GREAT - 2 Years so far and still holding strong!
 
bchristo said:
I have not read all the posts so forgive me if already said but, I had a prob with the roof completely coming out of my 2000 Journey. I used Magnus Bond 75 and it worked GREAT - 2 Years so far and still holding strong!
Click to expand...
I'll bet THAT got your attention....
 
I am some what new at this and the first time posting here.  I have discovered a problem with the ruff, of my older motor home, that possibly some one else has experienced and may be able to suggest the best way to repair it. 

I have a fiberglass ruff and where it curves down, approximately 4 to 5 inches, on each side of the motor home, one side has separated from what appears to be an aluminum gutter, that extends the length of the coach.  Approximately 8 to 10 inches on the back end of the coach is still intact, but from that point forward to half of the coach's length, it is separated and then intact the rest of the way forward.  It also appears that some type of adhesive sealer was used in the gutter lip.  I have tried to roll the portion of the separation back into the lip by my self, but it keeps popping out.  The temperature has been in the 40's here in the north-west, and I'm wondering if that could be contributing to the difficulty of working with the fiberglass.

In reading several of your questions and comments, it would appear that I should use the 3M, 4000 UV sealer in the gutter rail.  Due to our climate in the northern panhandle of Idaho, and looking for snow any day now, should I cover this problem area and wait for a nice warm day, some time in the future, or just get a lot of help to force the fiberglass back into the gutter.

If any one has experienced a similar problem, or has any thoughts regarding this problem, I will appreciate any and all suggestions. 

Thank you.

Bob
R. Wingate
[email protected]
Northern Panhandle of Idaho
 
Hi there Bob and welcome to the forum.  Please take a couple of minutes and and say hi in the Introduction board.

It would be useful if you would edit your profile and put the  year and model of your Winnebago product in your signature.

3M 4000 UV (and that entire family of product) has an application temperature range of 40-100F, so it sounds like you need to protect your roof seam until you get a day or two of good weather (temps above 40 and no precipitation) in the forecast.  My guess is the roof material will be stiff and difficult to work with in the cold, but my objective would be to get the seam sealed as soon as possible to prevent damage from leaks.
 
Thank you Mr. Canfield, I appreciate the advise.  When the temperature is warmer, is the fiberglass more plyable?  Also, is the 3M 4000 fairly quick drying?  The problem I had was, after inserting a small portion of the fiberglass and moving further down, the portion that was in place would pop out.  Any suggestions?

Thank you again

Bob
 
Bob - a few posts above is a link to the 3M product - you should find a data sheet there.  The product is faster curing than 3M 5200, but still it isn't that fast.  Yes, I think the roof material will be more flexible with warmer temperatures.

I don't understand why the roof won't stay captured by the aluminum extrusion (that joins the sidewall to the roof) - you might want to run that situation by Winnie owner relations.  It might be really useful to post some pictures if you have that capability.
 
Yes It got my attention... I cleaned out around front and back caps installed the ends of the roof then worked toward the middle. Once the roof was pinched under the gutter I used a wooden door shimmy to separate a small gap as i chalked down in the gap and a little on the roof - excess would squish out as i moved the shimmy and worked forward. I fininished off by smoothing with finger. Magnus Bond 75 M is what I  used and seems to be working great!
 
It looks like I'm the latest victim of peeling clear coat paint on the top radius of the rig.  The entire edge on the passenger side is peeling, and a few spots on the drivers side.  Guess I'll be calling Winnie in the morning..........

Sarge
 
Wow, a voice from elsewhere! You probably read my post about this.. Mine is sitting at Final Touch Coachworks out here in Santa Clarita. I left it 2 Saturdays ago and said "have fun", it's been done for a day already :) Quality report to follow.

PS- I saw your web page just now. My dad lived in Fallbrook (Deluz Cyn.) for about 20 years. When I started going down there, it had no stoplights, fast food, and one way in (Oceanside). Getting in from the 15 was often an adventure.
 
SCVJeff said:
Quick followup: I received a return email from both Winne and CDI the following morning before I got up (West coast). Bottom line is that CDI is covering the work for $xx.xx, and my local RV repair center with a 58' air controlled and filtered paint booth agreed to do the job for said $$. The only catch was that they guarantee the job for as long as I own the coach and insisted on using their DuPont product even though CDI was going to send the materials out. All good 4 me.. :)

(edit: fixed dumb sentence)
Click to expand...
-Now the end of the story-

Picked up the coach from the shop and the job is beautiful, I'd venture to say better than factory. Bill faxed to CDI and check was in the mailbox today, about a week after submitting to CDI.

Wouldn't it be nice if everything went this smooth?
 
Wow, this has been a great thread.  It turns out that I too have the same full body paint problem.  After following this thread, I climbed up the ladder and found the peeling of the clear coat paint on the top radius of my Journey.  I immediately called Winnebago who gave me the CDI number to call.  CDI asked that I email photos, and a few days later I received an email indicating that, even though my coach was out of warranty, they would do a courtesy repair at their plant in Forest City, IA.  I plan on being in that part of the country late next spring.  Perfect and almost unbelievable in this day and age!  "Two thumbs up" to CDI.

As an alternative, I had thought that 6" wide, black Eternabond would solve both the peeling problem and the sealing of the cracking caulk at the gutter interface.  What are you guys take on this alternative?

Suncircles
2005 Winnebago Journey 36G with a 2006 CRV toad
 
CDI and Winnie have both been good about taking care of situations like this.  Glad you are in line to get the clear coat taken care of.

I think the big issue with Eternabond is cosmetic - my vote is for 3M-4200 UV.
 
Hey Jeff, Yep Fallbrook has changed some, but not a lot! It's a great town and when we finally come off the road it will be home.  Just not yet! 

I too had the same results when I contacted CDI about my peeling clear coat.  They told me just to give them a call when we were about a week out and they would schedule me in and out in a day.  I am also going to have a small "oops" fixed on the right rear of the rig.  While trying to squeeze out of a parking spot at Cracker Barrel about a year ago, I managed to scrape the mirror of the rig next to me causing about a 6" scratch on the right rear corner. Didn't hurt the guys mirror, but the scratch on my rig bummed me out :'(

Anyway, I guess that CDI should be able to handle the repair, as they did it the first time.

Sarge
 
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