what size battery do i need?

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PattyShipc

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It's been a while since I posted. 3 years and I'm getting proficient, but still learning. I have a 2001, class C Jayco. My engine battery need to be replaced.
My rig is an E350, Super Duty, V10.
What kind, size battery do I need? Tried to research but no clear info. I want a sealed battery but doesn't have to be top of the market.
Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
 
It's been a while since I posted. 3 years and I'm getting proficient, but still learning. I have a 2001, class C Jayco. My engine battery need to be replaced.
My rig is an E350, Super Duty, V10.
What kind, size battery do I need? Tried to research but no clear info. I want a sealed battery but doesn't have to be top of the market.
Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
The best way to do this is to remove the old battery and take it to your local autoparts store. They will give you a few choices of the type of battery (and warranty) where possible and then there will not then be a core charge.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
If you're a member of costco or sam's club you can get a bit better deal on a decent battery than you'd find at an auto parts chain. Otherwise don't overthink this, it's a starting battery that will be in a moderate application and most any will check the box. You can look at what's there for it's group number and replace one for one but sometimes there's room in the battery tray for a larger one if you think the original size doesn't cut it. Keeping a maintainer on it will help ensure a long life.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Batteries are identified by Group sizes. For example, my 2003 RAM 2500 diesel has two Group 65 batteries under the hood. My little Pontiac Vibe has a Group 35 battery. The size of the battery should be marked on the top of it.

Personally I prefer AGM type batteries as they are "no-spill" and cannot be serviced with fluid (they do not need to be) and they don't gas off and cause corrosion on the terminals. They generally last as long, if not longer than a good quality "wet" battery.

Make sure of one thing, the year of the Ford chassis. The fact that it is a 2001 motor home can mean it has a 2001 chassis under it, or very possibly a 2000 chassis. Find the build date or have the Ford dealer run the VIN and print you a build sheet to keep in your records.

I doubt that a year 2000 or 2001 will make a difference in the battery however. I just looked in the Advance Auto Parts web site for the battery locator and when I selected 2001/E350 Super Duty/6.8L V10, it shows a Group 65 battery (you only need one) and they run in price from $90 for a basic cheap battery that will last a year or two, to a Die Hard Platinum AGM for $255. The Gold and the non-AGM Platinum are both well over $200 so its worth going to the AGM. (Advance bought the Die Hard brand from Sears a while back).

The next batteries I buy for my truck, barring a good sale price of something else, will be the AGM batteries that Wal-Mart sells, decent price and decent battery, and you can get it installed there also.

WARNING!!!!! Do NOT take my determination that it has a Group 65 as the gospel, have it verified. The best thing you can do is drive it to someone Such as Advance (who will change the battery) or Costco if you are a member (they sell Interstate, very good battery), and have the group size VERIFIED before getting one.

If your battery is weak to the point it won't crank the engine, you probably have a BOOST switch that will allow you to hold down the switch and crank the motor, using the house batteries to "jump start" the engine, then release the switch.

Charles
 
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I would also guess Group 65, as that is what my 2000 F250 has, well it is a 7.3 diesel so has 2 of them, but I suspect Ford put the same size battery / battery tray in both the F and E Super Duty trucks of these years.
 
Before you do anything take pictures of the existing battery and how it's wired.

What symptoms are you seeing that makes you believe you need a new battery?

Oh and while you are at it take some pictures of your house batteries too.
 
If you're a member of costco or sam's club you can get a bit better deal on a decent battery than you'd find at an auto parts chain. Otherwise don't overthink this, it's a starting battery that will be in a moderate application and most any will check the box. You can look at what's there for it's group number and replace one for one but sometimes there's room in the battery tray for a larger one if you think the original size doesn't cut it. Keeping a maintainer on it will help ensure a long life.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Thanks. didn't even think of Costco. Just got a membership đź‘Ť
 
Before you do anything take pictures of the existing battery and how it's wired.

What symptoms are you seeing that makes you believe you need a new battery?

Oh and while you are at it take some pictures of your house batteries too.
I replaced my house battery 2 years ago. Great idea to take pics of wiring
I live in Colorado and this was the first winter it went dead. Put it on my charger and it won't take a full charge... only to 13.5. My house battery did the same thing... kept discharging. Replaced it and no issues since.
I travel alone so I'm careful about these things
 
Batteries are identified by Group sizes. For example, my 2003 RAM 2500 diesel has two Group 65 batteries under the hood. My little Pontiac Vibe has a Group 35 battery. The size of the battery should be marked on the top of it.

Personally I prefer AGM type batteries as they are "no-spill" and cannot be serviced with fluid (they do not need to be) and they don't gas off and cause corrosion on the terminals. They generally last as long, if not longer than a good quality "wet" battery.

Make sure of one thing, the year of the Ford chassis. The fact that it is a 2001 motor home can mean it has a 2001 chassis under it, or very possibly a 2000 chassis. Find the build date or have the Ford dealer run the VIN and print you a build sheet to keep in your records.

I doubt that a year 2000 or 2001 will make a difference in the battery however. I just looked in the Advance Auto Parts web site for the battery locator and when I selected 2001/E350 Super Duty/6.8L V10, it shows a Group 65 battery (you only need one) and they run in price from $90 for a basic cheap battery that will last a year or two, to a Die Hard Platinum AGM for $255. The Gold and the non-AGM Platinum are both well over $200 so its worth going to the AGM. (Advance bought the Die Hard brand from Sears a while back).

The next batteries I buy for my truck, barring a good sale price of something else, will be the AGM batteries that Wal-Mart sells, decent price and decent battery, and you can get it installed there also.

WARNING!!!!! Do NOT take my determination that it has a Group 65 as the gospel, have it verified. The best thing you can do is drive it to someone Such as Advance (who will change the battery) or Costco if you are a member (they sell Interstate, very good battery), and have the group size VERIFIED before getting one.

If your battery is weak to the point it won't crank the engine, you probably have a BOOST switch that will allow you to hold down the switch and crank the motor, using the house batteries to "jump start" the engine, then release the switch.

Charles
How often do you have to add water to your batteries?
Mine is sealed. No need to add water
 
This is a reply to Charles in GA. Sorry if it's in the wrong spot.

Yes, my chassis has an alt start button, but I take out my coach battery out during the winter and put it on a trickle charge, so the motor wouldn't crank. (life in Colorado) I purchased an AGM for my coach and am happy with it

btw- I forgot that my alt start will get me out of trouble if my engine battery won't turn over. good reminder
think I'll head to Costco and check out what they have. Super Walmart is across the street from Costco. I can check them out too.
thanks
 
The best way to do this is to remove the old battery and take it to your local autoparts store. They will give you a few choices of the type of battery (and warranty) where possible and then there will not then be a core charge.

-Don- Auburn, CA

What Don-Tom said. Take the Battery with you to the Auto Store. Get a good one. Don't go cheap

With engine batteries there are dozens of configurations. Different size. Different terminals. some the positive is on one side some on the other Take pictures before you take it out and if there is more than one wire hooked to a terminal tie them together some how so you remember to put em all back.
 
Get a good one. Don't go cheap
As much as I've done with batteries over the last 40 years or so, I'm not sure what that really means. Not being a smarty pants, just that with OEM's, brands, marketing and "supply chain" variables I'm not sure one can go by price or brand. For the last 20 years or so I've gotten GC2's and starting batteries from costco, which for a while now are some flavor of interstates, which seem to be made by exide. Used to be costco offered a non prorated warranty which made them the clear better deal but since covid or so they don't do that, even retracting a bit with truck (RV) batteries only pro-rata warranted for half the period marked on the battery. They're still a decent price though and despite diminished warranty coverage (where the lower price is likely derived) I've gotten good service from these. Typical service I've seen for both GC2's and SLI's is 7 years, not a bad run for any flooded. In the past I could look at data sheets and see performance differences between various brands and models and discern the better value for whatever I was looking for. Nowadays, good luck finding any data on any retail battery. It's not published and even direct contact with their marketing gets me generic user instructions with little specific or comparative data. Contrasted to the likes of Fullriver, Trojan, USBattery, and others that publish comprehensive data and performance spec's. By price alone the costco interstates would be a "value" brand with a lower expectation of performance and longevity but in practice I've found them to be a great value. Buying a more expensive or name brand ("Die Hard", et al) wouldn't net me any better utility or reliability. Generally among a given battery line the primary difference between like models is the warranty period, and commensurate price. Which of course isn't a warranty, you're buying insurance and betting that it will crap out before the insurance expires. Occasionally you win on that, most times you won't. If you're going to spend up to 2X the price for a "better" battery (warranty) you could just as well roll the dice, buy the "cheap" battery and save the money for the unlikely event it dies and you have to buy another one. Odds pretty good are you won't need to. Anyway, just a rant here to point out that in today's world I'm not sure there's any way to know just what the hell you're getting in the mass retail battery market, so just pick something and run it. You can spend lots more and might get some incremental increase in performance or longevity but in the long run it's cheaper and easier just to go with the mainstream stuff. One thing in your favor with RV's, at least the gas ones, the starting battery has a relatively easy life so performance isn't paramount. Compared to say a commuter car that is started a dozen or more times a week from below 0F to 100F over a period of years, an RV is started much less often and rarely below 30F. Just because the vehicle is "big" the engine is basically the same as a pickup truck so most any appropriately sized battery will work fine. The challenge is to keep the thing from dying due to self discharge or parasitic loads more than anything. Keeping a maintainer on it will go a long way to getting long service life.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
As much as I've done with batteries over the last 40 years or so, I'm not sure what that really means. Not being a smarty pants, just that with OEM's, brands, marketing and "supply chain" variables I'm not sure one can go by price or brand. For the last 20 years or so I've gotten GC2's and starting batteries from costco, which for a while now are some flavor of interstates, which seem to be made by exide. Used to be costco offered a non prorated warranty which made them the clear better deal but since covid or so they don't do that, even retracting a bit with truck (RV) batteries only pro-rata warranted for half the period marked on the battery. They're still a decent price though and despite diminished warranty coverage (where the lower price is likely derived) I've gotten good service from these. Typical service I've seen for both GC2's and SLI's is 7 years, not a bad run for any flooded. In the past I could look at data sheets and see performance differences between various brands and models and discern the better value for whatever I was looking for. Nowadays, good luck finding any data on any retail battery. It's not published and even direct contact with their marketing gets me generic user instructions with little specific or comparative data. Contrasted to the likes of Fullriver, Trojan, USBattery, and others that publish comprehensive data and performance spec's. By price alone the costco interstates would be a "value" brand with a lower expectation of performance and longevity but in practice I've found them to be a great value. Buying a more expensive or name brand ("Die Hard", et al) wouldn't net me any better utility or reliability. Generally among a given battery line the primary difference between like models is the warranty period, and commensurate price. Which of course isn't a warranty, you're buying insurance and betting that it will crap out before the insurance expires. Occasionally you win on that, most times you won't. If you're going to spend up to 2X the price for a "better" battery (warranty) you could just as well roll the dice, buy the "cheap" battery and save the money for the unlikely event it dies and you have to buy another one. Odds pretty good are you won't need to. Anyway, just a rant here to point out that in today's world I'm not sure there's any way to know just what the hell you're getting in the mass retail battery market, so just pick something and run it. You can spend lots more and might get some incremental increase in performance or longevity but in the long run it's cheaper and easier just to go with the mainstream stuff. One thing in your favor with RV's, at least the gas ones, the starting battery has a relatively easy life so performance isn't paramount. Compared to say a commuter car that is started a dozen or more times a week from below 0F to 100F over a period of years, an RV is started much less often and rarely below 30F. Just because the vehicle is "big" the engine is basically the same as a pickup truck so most any appropriately sized battery will work fine. The challenge is to keep the thing from dying due to self discharge or parasitic loads more than anything. Keeping a maintainer on it will go a long way to getting long service life.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Thanks, Mark. It's below 30° here often. (Colorado) I'm parked all winter.
What do y'all mean by 'keeping a maintainer on it' ?
 
What do y'all mean by 'keeping a maintainer on it' ?
They are referring to a trickle charger such as this one.
1710256187140.png

Amazon has a lot of them to choose from as do most automotive departments or auto stores. This is the one that I like best and have used for a long time. I kept it permanently installed in the engine compartment of our Ford chassis class A with the cord just behind the grill. I connected it anytime that we were parked for more than a couple of days. Using it, our chassis batteries averaged a life span of 5 1/2 years. We often sat in one spot for 3 or 4 months without starting the chassis engine at all.
 
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It's below 30° here often. (Colorado) I'm parked all winter.
Sure, it's below 30F a lot of places. Are you starting and driving it every day or just parked? Even 30F is pretty tepid, it's those 0F and below climates that really put the whammy on a battery. Their ability to deliver high currents is diminished at the same time the engine is harder to turn. That's when a "better" battery can make a difference. In terms of storage, cooler is better as chemical activity is slower so self discharge is less. Keep it charged and lead acid hibernates well in the cold.

Many brands of decent maintainers out there these days, I've got four different ones and they all work OK.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
As much as I've done with batteries over the last 40 years or so, I'm not sure what that really means.
Read "Good" v/s cheap batteries. .. I usually judge based on the warranty. But I do admit that's an assumption A battery warranted for 5 years is better than a 90 day type thinking

However I do admit I've gotten a lemon that way (It was, however, replaced under warranty and the replacement lasted several years)
 

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