Winterizing Ice Maker

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Doylemrbass

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Posts
6
Location
Lincoln, Nebraska
How can you winterize the ice maker on a 2016 Coachman Mirada motor home? It is the full size refrigerator and last winter the water valve behind the fridge froze up.
 
I don’t have an ice maker but I would think that if you winterize the RV with the pink stuff, just run fluid out of the ice maker until it turns pink.
 
I don’t have an ice maker but I would think that if you winterize the RV with the pink stuff, just run fluid out of the ice maker until it turns pink.
That works, but often leaves you with tasting the pink stuff for a long time after de-winterizing.

To the OP: You say "full size refrigerator" but size means little. If it's a typical RV absorption fridge, running off of both 120V AC and propane, or if it's a residential fridge, most of the ice maker is used to freezing anyway, so it's mostly the valves or water line that cares much. All of the RV-style icemakers I've had gave winterizing instructions in the manual, and in the two residential ones I've had I just remove the water filter from the fridge and blow air through the water line, running water from the door spigot until it comes out just air, then leave the rest alone. So far so good.
 
I just blow ours out with compressed air. Turn off the water to the refrigerator then remove the water lines on both sides of the valve and blow it out. Then apply some air to the line to the ice maker to blow most of the water from the line.
 
You’ll never taste antifreeze in an RV water system. After flushing out the antifreeze and sanitizing the fresh water system with bleach, the taste is long gone.
 
You have to empty the icemaker water line or ump RV antifreeze thru it. Emptying it is usually easier. Disconnect the output line from the valve and let it drip-drain. Disconnect the inlet side and blow some air thru the inlet line from the main feed, or find where the inlet line connects to the main and disconnect there so it can drip-drain. The icemaker itself doesn't need winterizing - it is designed to freeze!
 
You have to empty the icemaker water line or ump RV antifreeze thru it. Emptying it is usually easier. Disconnect the output line from the valve and let it drip-drain. Disconnect the inlet side and blow some air thru the inlet line from the main feed, or find where the inlet line connects to the main and disconnect there so it can drip-drain. The icemaker itself doesn't need winterizing - it is designed to freeze!
The water valve is not accessible without removing the refrigerator. There is no access from the back of this residential refrigerator and it only runs on 12 V Inverted or 120 V. Water, air or anti freeze will not go through the valve without the valve being energized.
 
That works, but often leaves you with tasting the pink stuff for a long time after de-winterizing.

To the OP: You say "full size refrigerator" but size means little. If it's a typical RV absorption fridge, running off of both 120V AC and propane, or if it's a residential fridge, most of the ice maker is used to freezing anyway, so it's mostly the valves or water line that cares much. All of the RV-style icemakers I've had gave winterizing instructions in the manual, and in the two residential ones I've had I just remove the water filter from the fridge and blow air through the water line, running water from the door spigot until it comes out just air, then leave the rest alone. So far so good.
The water valve is not accessible without removing the refrigerator. There is no access from the back of this residential refrigerator and it only runs on 12 V Inverted or 120 V. Water, air or anti freeze will not go through the valve without the valve being energized.
 
The water valve is not accessible without removing the refrigerator.
And I do nothing with any valves. My reference to valves was to mention that they can be vulnerable to freezing, but mine are sufficiently cleared by attaching the compressor to the water lines at 40 psi, then opening faucets until they are dry. For the fridge, I just remove the filter then run a few glasses of water out while the compressor is attached until the internal tank in the fridge runs dry. I don't worry about the icemaker itself.

You’ll never taste antifreeze in an RV water system. After flushing out the antifreeze and sanitizing the fresh water system with bleach, the taste is long gone.
Well, my taster (mouth, taste buds, nose, etc.) disagrees with you, as do those of my wife.. And I don't much care for the taste of bleach, either, though I do use it -- just run it all out before use.
 
I have a residential fridge with a ice maker. Take off the front cover from the ice maker, take a short jumper wire and short between the “V” and ”L” on the front of the ice maker this will trip the valve. Do this until you have solid pink coming out. Do the same thing to flush out the pink with fresh water in the spring. Also don’t forget the washer if so equipped in your rig
 
That works, but often leaves you with tasting the pink stuff for a long time after de-winterizing.

To the OP: You say "full size refrigerator" but size means little. If it's a typical RV absorption fridge, running off of both 120V AC and propane, or if it's a residential fridge, most of the ice maker is used to freezing anyway, so it's mostly the valves or water line that cares much. All of the RV-style icemakers I've had gave winterizing instructions in the manual, and in the two residential ones I've had I just remove the water filter from the fridge and blow air through the water line, running water from the door spigot until it comes out just air, then leave the rest alone. So far so good.
This is a Frigidaire, residential refrigerator with ice maker. The control valve that controls water to the ice maker is at the bottom back of the refrigerator and then is no access from the outside. When I replaced the control valve last year (after it froze & leaked), I had to remove the refrigerator. As far as winterizing, I need to be able to energize that control valve to let the antifreeze through the lines. I am trying to find out how to energize the valve so I can winterize it properly before this coming winter.
Thanks,
Doyle
 
I have a residential fridge with a ice maker. Take off the front cover from the ice maker, take a short jumper wire and short between the “V” and ”L” on the front of the ice maker this will trip the valve. Do this until you have solid pink coming out. Do the same thing to flush out the pink with fresh water in the spring. Also don’t forget the washer if so equipped in your rig
There are no terminals or holes in the front of the icemaker that say either V or L. Is there another way to energize the control valve?
 
How can you winterize the ice maker on a 2016 Coachman Mirada motor home? It is the full size refrigerator and last winter the water valve behind the fridge froze up.
I realize this is not a helpful response to your specific case for what we did was we simply removed the ice maker and all the lines. Now we just use one or two ice trays. Have much more room and one of the best things we've done.
 
I had a client (not anybody's client now) and he had me add a pair of valves and a T in front of the potable pump on one of his boats. This one did have an ice maker. It wasn't for years that I found out why he wanted this.
This was his boat to pull the good boat out to the races and party on later. He got so tired of messing with and repairing (or having me) the potable system and that took up good sailing time in the spring and fall. He would by-pass and drain the water heater, then bring aboard 3 big jugs of cheap vodka that he had added a little red color too. He would fill the system with that for the winter. He never bothered to sanitize it in the spring or even flush out the anti-freeze, but it won't be until June that they could get it to make ice.
Matt
 
The valve for the ice maker works with regular 120 volt ac. Make up a lamp cord with push on connectors on the bare ends. Unhook the connectors on the solenoid. Connect the lamp cord to the solenoid. Turn on the pump for the antifreeze and plug in the lamp cord. I would not run the solenoid for more than 20 seconds, that should be enough time to get the af into the icemaker.
 
The valve for the ice maker works with regular 120 volt ac. Make up a lamp cord with push on connectors on the bare ends. Unhook the connectors on the solenoid. Connect the lamp cord to the solenoid. Turn on the pump for the antifreeze and plug in the lamp cord. I would not run the solenoid for more than 20 seconds, that should be enough time to get the af into the icemaker.
That would be great but I have no access to the solenoid without removing the refrigerator and once doing that was enough.
 
Right. The only thing to do is run the icemaker through a couple of cycles and pump antifreeze into. Or do what I do.. go South.
 
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