Wire Hookup Questions (2)

[ue40hole5]

1. Changing propane alarm. Old one (CC I Controls) has 3 wires, 2 red 1 yellow. New one (Safe-T-Alert) has 2 wires 1 red 1 black. What connects to what?. The harness adapter supplied is no help as it is built to attach to the wiring harness with a plug and no plug is present in the coach wiring.

2. Shurflo 2008 water pump, 2 red wires. One comes around from the back (motor end) of the pump, one comes from the wiring harness. Both plug into pushons at the front (pump end) of the pump. Which wire goes to which pushon? 

 

[Gizmo100]

1. Changing propane alarm. Old one (CC I Controls) has 3 wires, 2 red 1 yellow. New one (Safe-T-Alert) has 2 wires 1 red 1 black. What connects to what?. The harness adapter supplied is no help as it is built to attach to the wiring harness with a plug and no plug is present in the coach wiring.

2. Shurflo 2008 water pump, 2 red wires. One comes around from the back (motor end) of the pump, one comes from the wiring harness. Both plug into pushons at the front (pump end) of the pump. Which wire goes to which pushon? 

Best I can tell on the old unit one red wire goes to the converter and the other red wire goes to the battery. I recommend using the one going to the battery. The detector should have power at ALL TIMES.
The yellow wire is a little confusing I would have expected a Black wire to act as a ground to the battery.

 

[John From Detroit]

On both your volt meter is your friend.

On the Propane detector. Most have RED/Black and???  Using the volt meter mearure voltage (I'd go red to yellow. (note if it's POSITIVE (Red lead on the meter is the POSITIVE) if so then the RED lead goes to the RED on the new one. and yellow to the black (or however they identify positive and negative ) NOTE that there is no STANDARD for color codes. only convention.

IF the meter shows the red is NEGATIVE. believe it

The other red.. May be a continuintion of power lead (to another device) or may be control for a solenoid.. How are they hooked up original were both of them hooked together?

on the water pump

One wire or push on should clearly be marked + I hope. Mine was. Again use the meter to figure out which witch is which.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Some CCI models had 3 wires, a ground and two hots. Probably the two reds on your old one.  One hot was to the chassis battery and the other to the house battery, intended to guarantee the alarm was always powered.  Newer models may have only one hot, which can be connected to either house or chassis battery +12.  The negative is to chassis ground, which is the same for either house or chassis 12v.  Don't the instructions state which wire ib +12? If not, it probably doesn't makje any difference.    I'd hook the red on the new one to one of the two wires that fed the reds on the old CCL, and the new black where the old yellow used to go.  You can test per Johns advice - the reds should have been +12 and the yellow to a negative ground.


Water pumps usually have continuous +12v and the ground side is switched. That's why it has two wires of the same color - they would both normally be "hot.  This Youtube video may help.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqROXlgt-lI

 

[NY_Dutch]

On the pump, the two reds go to the pressure switch, and it doesn't matter which one goes on which terminal.

 

[richardhufford]

I think I remember a propane shutoff valve being attached to the propane alarm on our 1991 motorhome.  Perhaps the difference between a 2-wire and a 3-wire propane alarm would be that one has a wire to the shutoff valve and the other doesn't.  (Sorry, I don't feel like going outside tonight and looking.)

 

[Alfa38User]

Perhaps the difference between a 2-wire and a 3-wire propane alarm would be that one has a wire to the shutoff valve and the other doesn't.

The OP did not specify any info on the trailer/motor home he has... But this is true in many vehicles in the 90's. Later vehicles do not have that valve in the propane system as the requirement was dropped.  If this is the OP's case, he will now have to bypass/remove the valve assembly usually located around the propane tank's regulator in order to have propane flow. Or try and find a detector that still has that feature, (very hard to find today!!)

Suggestion to the OP: place your RV equipment information in the signature portion of your profile (see menu line above) and we won't have to ask each time!!
 

 

[richardhufford]

Our propane detector is a CCI, and it looks to me like the wire going to the propane shutoff is yellow, like the OP's extra wire.  I think it's kind of nice to be able to shut off the propane from inside the coach, so I wonder if installing a toggle switch that will send 12 v. to the shutoff, when turned on, would be a sensible thing to try.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If you have a propane cutoff valve wired to the detector, it's not a 12v circuit. It's low voltage and think it is pulsed, just enough to keep the valve solenoid engaged.  The valves are unique to the brand of detector so that they work together, so there is not one simple answer to what is needed.  For example, the detector & valve that Safe-T-Alert sells to replace the CCI must be installed as a unit - the old CCI valve won't work with the new Safe-T-Alert detector.

If you hunt around online you can probably find the info on the old CCI valve and figure out a way to do it. Easier, though, to buy & install a new remote LP shut-off valve and install.
https://www.propanecarbs.com/impco/fl-221-fuel-shutoff-valve.html
https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Water/dp/B018WRJYPY/