Yamaha or Honda genny to run a 13,500 btu a/c?

[Micro1706]

We are owners of a new micro minnie 1706fb with a 13.5k btu a/c
Is there a recommended (preferably very portable) generator that might run the a/c at night, while we are parked away from an a/c source?
We are going to want to fit it in the pass-thru space under the bunk or in the back of the tahoe we are using to pull it, so portability is probably as strong a criteria as silence, strength, and efficiency.  Of course, sounds like I want it all...
many thanks
cheers

 

[glockholiday]

You'll need a 3000 watt, minimum. And those aren't going to fit in your storage compartment. But there are quite a few different rack designs to carry it on the trailers' rear bumper with covers and locks so you don't have to lift it up and down every use. Just remove the cover and plug your cord in.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/westtexashiker/RV/PA270008.jpg

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[John From Detroit]

Hondas are rarted at a fraction of their model number so a PAIR of EU2000i generators in parallel (They sell a kit) should do it a EU3000i may do it

Yahama also discounts but if you can find it a EF2400i is a true 2,000 and a EF3600i Is a true 30000

In all cases the model number is the PEAK watts.

 

[Micro1706]

I read that a yamaha 2400 ISHC might be able to do the trick?

http://www.adventurerv.net/yamaha-portable-generator-2400w-ef2400ishc-p-5146.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLv9UfctSWPBOLrRDjLNq-oNAaSNMDOeI0wvQohteoj7RoCkJrw_wcB&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle

not interested in strapping a non-portable genny to the rig, nor the dueling 2000's option
airconditioning may be restricted for the locations where we hookup to a a/c source
Has anyone heard if the 2400ishc would be able to do the trick?
Many thanks for the help
cheers

 

[DDevers]

The Yamaha 2400 will work jut fine for you.  I tested ours out when it was 90 degrees out by running the air, having the refer on electric and heating a cup of water in the micro and it did just fine.  I started the air out on lowest cool and then increased it to max with no ill affects.  It's smaller than the Honda 3000 which is nice, also.  Enjoy.

 

[Micro1706]

very kind of you to help us decide!
we appreciate all the input from this site and the great folks who share their experience here
thank you!  we have located one in spokane and plan on getting it when we pickup the t.trailer
all the best
cheers

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The key spec is having enough surge (peak load) capacity for the a/c to start. An a/c only draws about 1500 watts when running, but doubles that for a couple seconds each time the compressor starts. You need a genset that won't trip its breaker when that happens.

DDEvers says the 2400 works. I would not have thought that from the specs, but real experience trumps specsmanship!. Must have a delayed-trip breaker that allows a/c start-up. I have seen multiple reports that the 2800 does fine, however.

He also says he can run his fridge on electric and a microwave at the same time. Good luck with that - if all three actually cycle on together, that is going to exceed 2400 watts by at least a couple hundred watts.  A micro typically uses over 1000W alone, but it pulses so it's not always a steady load.  The fridge can be "on" but not actively using its electric heater element, and that another couple hundred watts. The battery charger is another variable load that can be 50 watts or 500, depending on circumstances.

 

[Oak]

If you plan to camp at altitude I would go bigger. I am from Colorado and a gen. rated @ 3,000 watts is rated at sea level and is really much less than that at the 8,000 ft I live at and the 9,000 ft most folks camp at during their summer visits. 3,000 watts running and 4,000 watt start up rated gen will not run my air conditioner on my 2007 keystone. BUT I am not sure what the BTU rating of my air conditioner is. I will check it out tomorrow. Smaller gen. are generally less effected by altitude in proportion to larger gen. but above 5,000 ft you can lose as much as 200 watts per 1,000 ft elevation climb. More on larger gen. (7,000 watt for instance can lose as much as 250 watts per 1,000 ft.)
Hope this additional info is of some help.
Oak

 

[demag88]

I just  purchased a Honda 2000  in new mexico it ran my ac in 100 degree heat with no problem

 

[hedhunter9]

I have a Honda 2000 and it will not pull our air cond.

Bob

 

[Cigarguy]

If you have the money either one!!.  I purchased and use a Champion 3100 watt inverter 75531i for half the price to run the 13,500 btu AC in my older 1995 fleetwood prowler.  I also replaced the capacitors and installed a hard start kit since the AC is 20 years old.  Still works like a champ.

Found the kit on Amazon.  Supco SPP6E E Series Electronic Potential Relay Style Hard Start Kit, 1/2 - 3 Horsepower Range, 88-106F Capacitor.

 

[mbopp]

My Honda 2000i will NOT run my A/C. Brother has a Yamaha 2400 and it runs his A/C. YMMV.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

As can be seen by the reports here, a single 2000i is really marginal for one RV a/c unit. Might be sufficient for some, but it's a gamble.

 

[Rene T]

As can be seen by the reports here, a single 2000i is really marginal for one RV a/c unit. Might be sufficient for some, but it's a gamble.

Is there any chance of damaging either the generator or the AC if we try it? Going to be boondocking this coming weekend and will be bringing my Yamaha 2000.

 

[glockholiday]

Usually if the generator can run it, it will, if it can't it'll trip the overload. But if I had to give a yes or no answer I would say no, it won't run most A/C units.

A tip if you are going to try it is have the eco mode off on the generator so it's at full speed when the load of the a/c hits it. And have the A/C fan in the on position (instead of auto) before you go to cool so it's already running and the generator only has to deal with the inrush starting current of the A/C compressor and not also the fan at the same time.

 

[Rene T]

Usually if the generator can run it, it will, if it can't it'll trip the overload. But if I had to give a yes or no answer I would say no, it won't run most A/C units.

A tip if you are going to try it is have the eco mode off on the generator so it's at full speed when the load of the a/c hits it. And have the A/C fan in the on position (instead of auto) before you go to cool so it's already running and the generator only has to deal with the inrush starting current of the A/C compressor and not also the fan at the same time.

I will try that.

 

[drewtk]

I used to have a Yamaha 2400 and it wouldn't start my A/C until I put a hard start capacitor on it.  I now use a PAIR of Honda 2000's and they will run my A/C no problem.  I'll be surprised a single Honda 2000 can run a 13.5K A/C, but I've heard it done.  Personally, I'd get the dual Hondas and have some extra head room to run other stuff.

 

[Micro1706]

I used to have a Yamaha 2400 and it wouldn't start my A/C until I put a hard start capacitor on it.  I now use a PAIR of Honda 2000's and they will run my A/C no problem.  I'll be surprised a single Honda 2000 can run a 13.5K A/C, but I've heard it done.  Personally, I'd get the dual Hondas and have some extra head room to run other stuff.

  Yikes!          HELP !!            :'(
Got the new genny...a yamaha 2400iSHC...runs like a beaut, but when I turn on the new Dometic a/c (supposed to be a 13,500btu model...trying to get ahold of the winnebago folks to make sure the model # & specs, but safe to assume it is 13,500)...overload lite goes on at the genny, and a/c shuts down.  I can run the fan side of it, just fine.  I don't see a single way of adjusting throttle, turning eco-mode off, etc.  Nothing really on the unit can be adjusted in an obvious fashion.
Once overload light is on, only way to turn it off is to turn the genny off. Then restart.  When I try to again get the a/c going, same results.
What is this Hard Start kit?  I looked it up on amazon, and found one for $22.  How hard is it to install?  Where does it get installed...on the motorhome, or in between motorhome and genny?  Is is fail-safe fix or does it impact the life & perf. of either the gen set or the new a/c?
Many thanks in advance for any help.
cheers

 

[glockholiday]

The eco-mode off I was refering to is for the Honda 2000. In economy mode the rpm will idle down if there is only a small load on the generator and then it will automatically rev up when a larger load is started. Turning the eco mode off makes it run wide open and helps for those larger loads starting and stopping.

As for your current situation, try having the A/C fan already running in the ON position instead of AUTO which will help with the starting current load when the A/C compressor kicks on, but it sounds to me like you might not have enough generator.

Even still, lets say you can get your Yamaha 2400 to run your A/C, it will be close to maxed out. That means you have to shut your A/C off to run any other large loads.....microwave, coffee pot, electric water heater, blow dryer, etc.

When it comes to generators I believe bigger is better, just enough is too small. And when the topic of $$$ comes up, you already have thousands invested in the RV. Why limit yourself in using all of its amenities comfortably with no generator capacity worries/troubleshooting during an RV trip where you're supposed to be relaxing.

 

[Micro1706]

I've lived on a boat for the past 10 yrs.  The essence of being able to stay out (range) to me, is the ability to enjoy the silence and beauty of my surroundings.  I don't enjoy the noise of the generator - it does detract from my reason for doing this.  I envision the use of the generator for the odd times when I would like it to cool the place.  With the geographical directions we intend to take it, and then again mostly during the late Oct to late April time period, we see this as not being too often.  I was born and grew up very near to the equator (Brazil), and my threshold for the need to a/c the  place is quite high.  I would like to use the generator as minimally as possible, but I figure $1200 with a 4yr full warranty for something that will accomplish that end when needed, is not an unfair price, in my unique budgetary view of things.
The added benefit of being able to turn it on and microwave my tepid coffee or last nite's left overs, or the water heater for the admiral's shower, are all gratefully appreciated, but not essential.
I lived for the last 10 yrs without an inverter onboard.
We are not very attached to television watching as well, although the trailer came with one.
I use a step-down DC to DC converter, to run/charge my laptop, tablet, & the admiral's smartphone.  Works very nicely and doesn't burn my battery bank down. 
We are aiming at mostly staying away from rv parks and enjoying the more dispersed national forest campsites along Oregon & WA, until the weather turns too cold there too, then heading to Utah, NM, & perhaps as far as the Sea of Cortez.
I did run the fan side of the a/c first for a long time, however, when the true a/c side got switched over, it overloads the genset.  Going to order the Dometic or Duo-Therm hard start kit, and if the rest of the folks who have done so is any indication, it seems this should meet my needs.
All the same, thanks for the advice.
cheers
Bob