2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?

[John Hilley]

rookieRV is concerned about the converter, not inverter. He is planning on a Progressive Dynamics converter.

Here is an article by K7TTY about RF in an RV
http://www.k7tty.com/recreation/rfi.htm

 

[rookieRV]

rookieRV is concerned about the converter, not inverter. He is planning on a Progressive Dynamics converter.

Here is an article by K7TTY about RF in an RVj
http://www.k7tty.com/recreation/rfi.htm

That’s right, John, a CONverter, not INverter. The article by K7TTY was informative. However, the Parallax unit 7300 (gee, I used to have a Parallax ;D) that is highly praised there is of a “power center” design, not of a “sealed appliance box” design that I”m replacing (for simplicity? or convenience sake).

Quoting K7TTY:
“They [PD] recommend that :
Make sure your converter is not near or around antenna wires.
Some customers have found that turning the converter 90 degrees helps. :
Some have gone as far as to build a cage over the unit to catch RF. [gee, an idea of mine, too] :
Really the only sure fire cure at this time is to disconnect the converter from AC and run on just battery power when using your radio and connect to AC when done.”

Buuut, K7TTY gives much praise for Parallax [at the very least, a particular model of Parallax, the 7300 series “power center” design]. While he additionally gives praise to Parallax for UL type acceptance (regarding the issue of rfi...apperantly, the other brands (PD in particular) don’t enjoy this acceptance), I have perused through the newer Parallax ‘appliance’ models (4445)... while they will absolutely positively say that they could function w/o any batts [like the Iota]8), they seem uncertain as to describe themselves ‘multi-stage, smart chargers’ or not :-\. The only word that they seem to take time to come and patently mention outright is, ‘boost’. Wait a minute, another site does say “The 4435 Deckmount Converter by Parallax Power Supply is a three current stage [not 2 or 4]...” While the new Parallax models do have batt temp gizmos, they don’t appear to have any ‘charge state/wizard/dumb indicator’-like options.

 

[rookieRV]

I just did a keyword search, “rv charger converter type b compliance”. WFCO (and maybe one Parallax ‘power center’ design) were the first (so far the only) plastered all over the search results. :-\

Then the WFCO manual says,
“NOTE: This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference when the equipment is operated in a commercial environment. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instruction manual, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. Operation of this equipment in a residential area is likely to cause harmful interference in which case the user will be required to correct the interference at his own expense.”

According to one RVer, there are class A and B acceptance, and sometimes one of them (wholly unapplicable to a full-time RVing ham) is used as a cover for the fact that the devices fail to meet the other of the two type acceptances, on the issue of interference.   If the maffia ever wanted to rip my store off, they would simply come in the front door, demand funds, and call it “protection”.:

 

[John Canfield]

As long as you use a major brand of inverter/charger, you won't have RFI problems. I use Powerwerx switchers for my K3s and Kenwood TS-590 in the ham shack and they are very RF quiet. I have several old Astron linear power supply boat anchors in my storage building and that's where they will stay. Probably should sell them.

 

[rookieRV]

I just removed my Barker/Williamson AP/10B :-[ antenna from the rear view mirror, sent it further outside on the picnic table (via 40’ more rg-58), and now the rfi from my crt TV in the front of the RV is virtually gone 8)! I don’t know why that I was focusing so much at the length to loss figures for rg-58 (maybe because it’s a QRP radio :-[ ;D). Antenna-wise, anything shorter than 1/2 wavelenth up from ground is still a NVIS ‘cloud warmer’ , so I figure that 3-4 feet higher on a rear view mirror should really make little difference. I finally said, “To heck with it, let’s see where it would get me anyway.” Then unrolled the wire counterpoise 35-40 feet to the antenna @ the table, and it rocks;D on 40! 8) Now to keep the weekly weed eater man (and my wife) from cutting/tripping over the coax/counterpoise: !

I’m looking at a 45 amp PD. I’ll give PD a call today, one site suggests that things may not be ‘on the level’ re: honoring warrantees. One site suggests a need for a reciept, warranty, contractual agreement, fiduciary pledge, notary, and solemn blood oath promise, all because of bogus serial #s out there!

 

[rookieRV]

I ordered a 45 amp PD... but the process was frought with difficulty. PD asked what state I live in and gave two ?recognized distributors?. One whose website says they have been out of business since the last hurricane here, the other professes themselves as ?wholesale distributors? who only sells to retail outlets? ! RV retail dealer #1 nearby me didn?t answer the phone :. RV retail dealer #2, says that they don?t have it in stock ?right now?, but could put it in my hand tomorrow , for abt. $75.00 more : than some online deals (but I?ll get reciept/warranty/product in hand, w/o fighting for USPS ?snail mail? service (many online dealers must send via UPS/FedEx signed for on the spot, and my campsite here won?t exactly sign for it in my absence when I?m away at work!) So I finally caved in, we should pick it up Thurs-Sat. The batts still have to be returned for testing/replacement/charging, so we have a while to go ???

Those two 8ga. wires w/ super-fine closed loop terminals (the positive fused for 50 amps inline near batts)? I heated solder all around the batt terminal?s holes, then filed them smooth and even on both sides (expanding their touch contact surface area). The solder is abt as wide as the washers installed with them. I don?t think it?ll make much difference, for afterward I replaced the negative fuse/terminal, and VOM metered them against each other: abt. .01 volts??? on a 50 amp fuse?

While looking for ways to crimp heavy guage 00-10 ga. vehicle/RV cable (I?ve only had the need for crimping butts/terminals in the 12-22 ga range before, I figured that it was time to ?upgrade?, for the RVs sake). All of the pricey hydraulic ratcheting arm-length ?switching die? doodads. A tutorial on how to pound a flatheat screwdriver to dent a terminal lug. I wondered, ?How does one keep the screwdriver from slipping off (and/or hitting your hand, by extension)?? I discovered a tool more than appropriate for as infrequent as I may have the need to crimp terminals of these large sizes (at one third of the price, too 8) ): A hammer crimper tool! Simplicity at its finest! 8)

 

[Lou Schneider]

Amazon has the PD 9245 for $177, in stock.  How does that compare with your sources?

 

[rookieRV]

Amazon has the PD 9245 for $177, in stock.  How does that compare with your sources?

Wonderful, buuut ;D! There was a site, apperantly made by PD themselves , explaining of con artists selling units w/ invalid (if any) serial number, required for warranty work.

  https://www.progressivedyn.com/service/ 

  ?Are you purchasing a Progressive Dynamics product on the internet? Before you buy, ask the seller about their warranty procedures. Does the retailer provide a "working" customer service or service department phone number? Does the Progressive Dynamics product that you are buying have a valid serial number? Some online retailers are selling Progressive Dynamics' products without a valid serial number...DON'T BUY THEM! We must have a valid serial number for all warranty service work. A valid serial number allows your warranty service topics to be handled smoothly and with ease.?

Then who does one go to for validation? The one who is or is not going to honor it, PD! The phone call begins w/ some thing reminescent of my HMO: "...Dial 'X' for sales/retail... dial 'Y' for technical... dial 'Z' for the NE Patriots... dial 911 for emergencies, etc, etc. ;D".  Then PD themselves gave me two sources that they recognize, based upon what ?state? that I live in: One source out of business due to the last hurricane, the other a ?wholesale distributor? that deals strictly through retail outlets, not direct to the clientele (perhaps like my father?s 40 year HVAC business having a commercial account with Grainger... he could order me starter capacitors instantly, faster than [if I even could] myself). I even suggested BestConverter, who had good deals much like Amazon: ?Huh? Who? Where?? response from PD. Should I cancel/return/charge-back this item from my card, and assume that it?s all a con? Then we?re back to square one...Which other brand, from whom?

 

[John Canfield]

Buy from Amazon - you have 30 days to return it for any reason. When and if it croaks, buy another one from Amazon.

 

[rookieRV]

Buy from Amazon - you have 30 days to return it for any reason. When and if it croaks, buy another one from Amazon.

But even at $175-$200, I don't expect this appliance to work on a system of attrition, treating it like replacing my weekly dose of potato salad (The bucket of potato salad is +/- $5.00/week!)! I like the idea of a two+ year warranty, you know, standing behind the product from the manufacturer on down.  :

The 30 days would be great, if PD is willing to validate the item's serial #, at least.

I'll bet you that this local RV store that I bought it from would have a 'restocking fee' if I cancelled (abt 20% aught to do it ), so I'm probably pretty much out of luck :'(. At least it may have bought me the 'convenience of expeditious facilitation' :-\

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I think you've managed to make a simple purchase into a complex issue. There are plenty of reputable online sources, and local RV stores can generally get most anything within a few days, though they mostly do not discount from MSRP.

If you don't trust Amazon, how about one of these well-known and reputable online RV stores:
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9245C-148-45-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger_p_610.html#.WnsL-udG1PY
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-electrical-systems-and-accessories/converter-chargers/inteli-power-9200-converter_55-9008
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Inteli-Power-9200-Converter-45-Amp-p/55-9008.htm
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Progressive-Dynamics-9245-Converter-p/vts-320.htm

 

[kdbgoat]

Please keep in mind this one is from a site sponsor:

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Inteli-Power-9200-Converter-45-Amp-p/55-9008.htm

It certainly doesn't hurt to help them help us.

 

[John Hilley]

I bought mine from eBay and got a good price, free shipping and a serial number.

 

[rookieRV]

Okay, I will make an attempt to cancel my present purchase ??? , if one of Gary?s or kdbgoat?s suppliers can ?snail-mail? it to my campground?s mail booth, without a signature on delivery (abt the only way that I can recieve anything bigger than an envelope here :-[).

 

[kdbgoat]

I can't take credit for any supplier, they were Gary's. I was just pointing out one of them was a site sponsor.

 

[rookieRV]

The GREAT news... the RV retailer will refund me (in 3-6 days :)! Plenty of time to begin the batt's examination. Other good news: Bestconverter will snail-mail to me. In the short conversation that I had, they seemed eager to push Boondocker converters, but  at this point, almost anything that's reasonably rfi clean and $75-$100 cheaper 8)!

Update... sent batts in to retailer this afternoon, made it clear that one/both of these new batts may be responsible for my recent need of a new charger/converter (bad cells, etc. :) so I obviously want ?no doubts?. Getting a full charge and load test (I?ll do hydrometer test??? myself, if it would help). Told them to take their time (it?ll take one week for refund and one for snail-mail delivery, after all). The hunt continues 8)...

 

[John Canfield]

Specific gravity is the most foolproof way to check state of charge for a flooded cell battery. Load testers aren't that expensive, check yourself.

 

[rookieRV]

The prices of load testers... at first glance... are all over the place! Some are around $20.00, some go up to abt 4X that+ ! What can one do that the other one can?t ???? Which do I need?

 

[John Hilley]

Usually the price is based on the load they present and other than that can't do anything the others can't

 

[rookieRV]

Okay. PD charger on the way 8)... Weather this Friday/Saturday on my side 8). Pick up batts Friday, supposedly fully charged (or replaced via warranty). Turn off everything (appliance) indoors. Turn off outdoor circuit breakers. Unplug the male outdoor shore plug, inspect the inside of the male plug for good connection (it's one of those "screw on" types, sure beats the cost of pulling off an entire 20'+ cable AND molded-on male plug each time that a problem arises w/ the male plug). Go back inside, cut and dress the last .5" of 12 volt 10 ga cables going from charger/converter (twist wrap + and - around each other, for rfi). Connect Charge Wizard. Connect chassis ground 8 ga. wire to charger chassis, then 8 ga. positive to charger's positive, then 8 ga. negative to charger's negative. Set batts inside stairs. Insert brand new 1' 1ga. cables parallel between batts. Connect RV's 00 ga. red positive cable (maybe steel-bristle/Dremmel the 00 terminal a little, 'clean up') to first batt's positive post, lay 50 amp fused 8 ga. positive cable (now terminal's loop area enlarged w/ solder) above on same positive batt post, then flat washer, split ring washer, nut (or wing nut), and tighten all on first batt's positive post (think, "contact surface area").  Connect RV's 00 ga black negative cable (maybe bristle-Dremmel 00 terminal) to second batt's negative post. Lay 8 ga. negative (terminal contact area now enlarged w/ solder) above on second batt's same negative post, then flat washer, split ring washer,  nut (or wing nut), tighten (again, think, "contact surface area"). Go inside, plug in charger/converter's 110 indoor receptacle. Go outside, reconnect 30 amp shore plug. Turn back on the 2 circuit breakers. Go inside: Are thermostats/fridge indicators functioning? Turn on indoor lights: How bright are they? What's charger current consumption w/ everything else off (usu. 1-2 amps). Overall current consumption relative to each added DC item (first lights, then hot water, then furnace). The wizard indicator is basically designed to blink slower, the closer that the batts are to a full charge. Ergo, what should I expect from a pair of batts that are already charged at this point (does it have to start in a boost mode regardless)?