5th Wheel Advice / Tips for an experienced newbie!

[Vicsr]

In another 5-6 weeks, we are going to pick up our new 32' Springdale 5th wheel. We have had a couple of pop ups, a 21' hybrid & an older 20' TT. I also have moved a couple of 28' transportation trailers around a yard & into a dock but that was 15 years ago!

What advice, tips or things have you learned (probably the hard way!) that you wish you had known right from the beginning or maybe somebody gave you? I am sure there are a lot of little tidbits that you have that would make the whole experience easier for us when we begin the next big adventure in our camping lives. It could be questions that you wished you had asked the dealer when you got the orientation instructions about the trailer or something you found about doing the first unhitching & set up. It might be things beyond the norm that we need to know when breaking camp & hitching up or moving the slides in / out (never had slides before!). I think the orientation with our dealer is going to be fairly thorough since he told us to allow 2 hours for it!

Any & all advice, tips, etc will be greatly appreciated!

BTW, our TV will be a 3/4 ton (F250, GM or Dodge 2500). Because of how little we will haul the trailer (4-6 times per season - stays at a race track the rest of the year), there is no preference on diesel or gas - we will buy the best possible truck for what we have to spend. Since the topic of type of fuel & brand of truck has been discussed in other threads so well, we are looking for advice on other things here.

Thank you in advance
Vic

 

[eliallen]

" I think the orientation with our dealer is going to be fairly thorough since he told us to allow 2 hours for it!"
That's what our dealer told us but when we picked up our rig it was a kid that didn't know squat.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You may find the section of the RV Forum Library titled "Newcomers Need to Know" to be helpful. Click the LIBRARY button on the menu bar near the top of the page.

 

[Marsha/CA]

We've heard the suggestion of video taping the orientation with the dealer, so you might want to bring a video camera along.

BTW, our TV will be a 3/4 ton (F250, GM or Dodge 2500). Because of how little we will haul the trailer (4-6 times per season - stays at a race track the rest of the year), there is no preference on diesel or gas - we will buy the best possible truck for what we have to spend. Since the topic of type of fuel & brand of truck has been discussed in other threads so well, we are looking for advice on other things here.

You still need to run the numbers of the weights to make sure your get the correct/safe combination of truck and trailer.  A 32' 5th wheel can be very heavy.  And, you never know, you might want to take off for longer and further trips.

Marsha~

 

[Bobandpamlemay]

I have a 34 foot 5er which I tyow with a 2008 F250 diesel. Love the truck's power but hate the mileage. Only get about 8 to 9 on flat land.
As for hooking up and unhooking. Camping World sells a level that you mount on the side of the trailer near your landing leg switch to help you rememer the height of the trailer for hookup and disconnect. I found it very helpful and limits trips to the inside of the truck to pull up or backup. I also put some red tape on the hitch so I could live up the kingpin easily. Works like a charm. When we hook up, I back the truck up to within inches of the hitch and them have my wife finish backing up while I watch the pin and hitch. Never had a problem. Of course, when you're hooking up always make sure your wheels are chocked.
When I back up the trailer on my drive, we use walkie talkies to keep me reasonably on course. She tells me where to put it, the trailer that is, and I usually obey. Has helped avoid shouting matches many times.

Bob

 

[Stewie Griffin]

If at all possible, do yourself a favor and get a longed and a 1 ton SRW. So many people get so hung up on ride quality that they end up sacrificing gvwr and with a 32 footer you are getting into the 12000lb+ range, that's on the limit Line for a 3/4 ton where its within spec of a one ton. The ride isn't that much different and if you go with something only a couple years old or newer you won't feel much of a difference at all.  As far as the long bed, if you end up with a short bed you really need to get a slider hitch, I have a short bed (I regret that decision) and have a slider, the times I back the trailer around a turn without engaging the slide that trailer nose comes extremely close to the cab of the truck, if the ground the truck of trailer is on gets out of level in the middle of a turn it could hit. Good luck.

 

[glen54737]

Remember that the trailer will "cut the corner" when you make turns it's called off-tracking in that the trailer wheels don't follow the truck wheels. It's more prounced in fifth wheels due to the pivot point being further forward. So you need to make swing -wide turns or you will hit curbs and maybe signs or something else on them.
A little practice in a empty parking lot will help out put some cones or other markers or watch the lines.

 

[StarDancer]

If at all possible, do yourself a favor and get a longed and a 1 ton SRW. So many people get so hung up on ride quality that they end up sacrificing gvwr and with a 32 footer you are getting into the 12000lb+ range, that's on the limit Line for a 3/4 ton where its within spec of a one ton. The ride isn't that much different and if you go with something only a couple years old or newer you won't feel much of a difference at all.  As far as the long bed, if you end up with a short bed you really need to get a slider hitch, I have a short bed (I regret that decision) and have a slider, the times I back the trailer around a turn without engaging the slide that trailer nose comes extremely close to the cab of the truck, if the ground the truck of trailer is on gets out of level in the middle of a turn it could hit. Good luck.

The advice I received was that a 3/4 ton would be OK to haul my 32' 5er (GVWR is 14K).  This from the dealer whom I bought the 5er from and the owner of the lot where I bought my truck.  The lot owner has been hauling 5th wheels and also has had Class A's for over 20 years. 

Now I read YOUR post and start wondering...geez, is this truck OK?  I will be living full time in this 5th wheel and am a complete novice with all this stuff.  **My F250 is a diesel long bed 4X4.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You don't have to wonder about your truck - just run the numbers. It's not difficult and the terms are all explained in the forum's RV Glossary.

Chances are the rear axle on an F250 is at or slightly over its GAWR (max weight rating) - a 3/4 ton hauling a large 5W typically is.  It doesn't seem to be an issue if it's just a few hundred lbs over.

Sales people nearly always tell you your truck can haul anything they have for sale. Very few have the knowledge or the integrity to say anything different.

 

[lone_star_dsl]

While I don't have a lot of experience with fifth wheel travel trailers, I have years of experience with gooseneck equipment trailers and vehicle weights.

My 2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW, Lariat, 4x4 with a diesel weighs in around 8,400 lbs with a driver, passenger and a full tank of fuel.  Ford says my truck has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 9,900 lbs and a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 20,000 lbs.  An F-250 of comparable year and options will weigh pretty much the same but will have a GVWR of 8,800 lbs.  The GCWR is the same.

Let's say, for example, that I am pulling your 32' trailer loaded to it's max GVWR of 14,000 lbs.  A pin weight of roughly 20% (2,800 lbs) puts my tow vehicle over it's GVWR by 1,300 lbs.  The combined weight of 22,400 lbs puts my truck 2,400 lbs over it's GCWR.

I'm not going to say that you will die in a fiery crash your first time out but travelling with an overloaded vehicle is just plain unsafe.  Either buy the trailer and buy the proper tow vehicle or get a smaller trailer.

Also, I witnessed an accident the other day while I buying my TT.  The gentleman that was getting his trailer out of storage obviously didn't remember to make sure the jaws were locked around the kingpin.  He will soon be in the process of buying another bed for his truck.

Never trust a salesman!!  They will do whatever it takes to make the sale.

 

[longhaul]

Looking at the Springdale web site shows a couple of 32' 5th wheel trailers. Their pretty light weight at 7k-8k shipping weight and 1300-1400 dry pin weight.  The "wet" pin weight will probably grow another 200-400 lbs depending how the trailer is loaded and its actual weight.

The new '11 GM and Ford 3/4 ton trucks have a 10000 lb GVWR's now . Payloads for a 2500 Dmax/A LTZ  extended cab 2wd at 3300 lb. If you want the 2500 GM 6.0 gasser its payload is in the 4000 lb range according to GM weight calculator. GM says the 2500 Dmax/A can pull a 5th wheel/GN trailer in the 15k-17k range depending on truck configuration. I would post the GM web site clicky but when I use this webs insert link I get a window from my internet supplier that won't let the link post. Maybe someone has the web as the weight calculator is a great feature for new folks to figure what a certain configurated truck can carry.

IMO the liteweight Sprindale doesn't need a one ton truck unless you just want one or planning on buying a older used  truck with lower capacities.

 

[StarDancer]

You don't have to wonder about your truck - just run the numbers. It's not difficult and the terms are all explained in the forum's RV Glossary.

Chances are the rear axle on an F250 is at or slightly over its GAWR (max weight rating) - a 3/4 ton hauling a large 5W typically is.  It doesn't seem to be an issue if it's just a few hundred lbs over.

Sales people nearly always tell you your truck can haul anything they have for sale. Very few have the knowledge or the integrity to say anything different.

Right...I understand that (about how sales people will tell you stuff about the vehicle they have for sale).  However, the owner of the lot has quite a bit of experience with 5th wheels, and I don't believe he would be telling me stuff just to sell a vehicle.  We even drove to my home when I was looking at the truck, and he definitely knew what I'd be hauling.  He has since helped me in other ways.  I feel he is an honest person who possesses the rare quality of integrity. 

Also, the wholesaler/broker I bought the RV from has a 3/4 ton and hauls many RVs a lot heavier and longer than mine. 

I'm not doubting your comment.  Please don't take offense in any way.  I appreciate your timely response.  And I'm glad I found this forum.  I've learned a lot already, just by reading the various posts!

 

[lone_star_dsl]

Right...I understand that (about how sales people will tell you stuff about the vehicle they have for sale).  However, the owner of the lot has quite a bit of experience with 5th wheels, and I don't believe he would be telling me stuff just to sell a vehicle.  We even drove to my home when I was looking at the truck, and he definitely knew what I'd be hauling.  He has since helped me in other ways.  I feel he is an honest person who possesses the rare quality of integrity. 

Also, the wholesaler/broker I bought the RV from has a 3/4 ton and hauls many RVs a lot heavier and longer than mine. 

I'm not doubting your comment.  Please don't take offense in any way.  I appreciate your timely response.  And I'm glad I found this forum.  I've learned a lot already, just by reading the various posts!

The salesman may be the most honest person around but he can still, unknowingly, give out poor information. 

Hook up your trailer and head to the scales.  Compare those numbers to what the factory says you can do.  If you are under the posted weight ratings, you are good to go.  If not, you may have to get the appropriate truck or lighten up the trailer.

 

[Stewie Griffin]

Right...I understand that (about how sales people will tell you stuff about the vehicle they have for sale).  However, the owner of the lot has quite a bit of experience with 5th wheels, and I don't believe he would be telling me stuff just to sell a vehicle.  We even drove to my home when I was looking at the truck, and he definitely knew what I'd be hauling.  He has since helped me in other ways.  I feel he is an honest person who possesses the rare quality of integrity. 

Also, the wholesaler/broker I bought the RV from has a 3/4 ton and hauls many RVs a lot heavier and longer than mine. 

I'm not doubting your comment.  Please don't take offense in any way.  I appreciate your timely response.  And I'm glad I found this forum.  I've learned a lot already, just by reading the various posts!

Did the dealer(s) run the numbers? The thing is I see hundreds of people that pull overweight all the time, the trucks will pull and stop the load but if you run the numbers using the GVWR of the trailer you are either going to be very close or over the trucks rating. The only thing I'm saying is be smart and go with a SRW 1 ton, its the same exact truck only the GAWR and rear overload springs are different. An F250/2500 is just a derated 350/3500. Fuel mileage and ride are the same. I am also hearing that the F350 comes with hydroboost brakes whereas the F250 does not. Plus, what if you decide you like a different trailer more than the one you're looking at now and its heavier? Or after 2 years you want to upgrade? Don't get barely enough truck, get one that you know will do the job.
Also, I have dealt with hundreds of dealers and so many of them seemed very honest and maybe they were but most of them go from selling cars to boats to homes then back to cars and I have found that they only have a general knowledge of what they're selling and I have had to explain what certain things are about the item to the dealer. And forget about getting towing advice from an RV dealer, every single dealer I have dealt with on an RV lot tells me the same thing when they see my 01 F350, "you can pull anything on this lot" that's so far from the truth when I see triple axle 40 footers with 16,000+ GVWR trailers out there. That's just what I need, a trailer that's going to cause tire blowouts, axle failures and frame damage. Nice.

 

[bill40]

You don't have to wonder about your truck - just run the numbers. It's not difficult and the terms are all explained in the forum's RV Glossary.

Chances are the rear axle on an F250 is at or slightly over its GAWR (max weight rating) - a 3/4 ton hauling a large 5W typically is.  It doesn't seem to be an issue if it's just a few hundred lbs over.

Sales people nearly always tell you your truck can haul anything they have for sale. Very few have the knowledge or the integrity to say anything different.

Gary is correct on this. The only advice I'll say on a truck is make sure you can tow and stop safely, as far as the 5er
  Always make sure your landing gear is down before you unhitch. Enough Said!! :-[

 

[SteelHeadR]

And forget about getting towing advice from an RV dealer, every single dealer I have dealt with on an RV lot tells me the same thing when they see my 01 F350, "you can pull anything on this lot" that's so far from the truth when I see triple axle 40 footers with 16,000+ GVWR trailers out there. That's just what I need, a trailer that's going to cause tire blowouts, axle failures and frame damage. Nice.

Truer words have not been spoken.  If I had a buck for every time a dealer told me a 1/2 ton truck would pull a 9k or 10k lb. trailer, I could buy some nice upgrades.  The problem with barely enough truck is not that they can't tow a trailer because they can.  The REAL problems arise when one is coming down a 5-10 mile steep downgrade, making evasive maneuvers, or making an emergency stop.  That's when more than enough truck REALLY pays dividends and when a barely enough truck suddenly isn't enough.  The thousand or so savings that can be had via buying a 3/4-ton truck vs. a 1-ton truck disappears very quickly.  Your safety and that of your loved ones is priceless and that should always be figured into the cost of a tow vehicle.  Just my $0.02 worth.

Ed
 

 

[Lou Schneider]

Also, the wholesaler/broker I bought the RV from has a 3/4 ton and hauls many RVs a lot heavier and longer than mine.

You're comparing apples to oranges.  Those trailers may be larger than yours, but they're dry and empty.  No personal belongings.  No water @ 8 1/2 lbs per gallon and probably no propane in the tanks either.

And he's transporting them from Point A to Point B, probably on Interstates or local roads he's familiar with.  You'll be traveling less familiar, more scenic roads, and driving the rig should be a pleasant experience - not having to constantly worry about how the truck is handling the trailer.  Having some headroom in the ratings makes for a much more pleasant driving experience than running at 100% or above all the time.