A couple of propane related questions

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1930

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My new fridge has the gas line coming in from the other direction, not enough line there to bend and loop and so I cut it back a bit just to get rid of a kink that was already there.

Are there any good tutorials on how to add an extension to this existing line.

Looked on you tube and not sure why I didnt come up with anything helpful.

https://postimg.cc/SXLhmR63

Secondly I ended up removing my heater cause it was in the way for my fridge cabinet build.

Is there anything Id be stupid not to do whilst its out? I planned on blowing it out real well with compressed air at a minimum?

Maybe there is something I should clean, maybe lubricate something?

What can you suggest?

https://postimg.cc/hXdn3pfS

https://postimg.cc/v1wyRfV5
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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The LP gas line is very low pressure (about 0.5 psi) so not difficult to work with (less challenging than a copper water line).  A copper tube union should work nicely.  I suspect a flare-type union is preferred, but see no reason why a compression type would not work fine on a low pressure line like that.

Lot's of videos on YouTube for RV gas line repairs or mods
 

1930

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Gary RV_Wizard said:
The LP gas line is very low pressure (about 0.5 psi) so not difficult to work with (less challenging than a copper water line).  A copper tube union should work nicely.  I suspect a flare-type union is preferred, but see no reason why a compression type would not work fine on a low pressure line like that.

Lot's of videos on YouTube for RV gas line repairs or mods

Thanks for the info, I did search you-tube but regardless of the titles of some of the videos I could not find a single video that actually showed an RV gas line repair.
 

SpencerPJ

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Take a piece of your copper tubing to the Hardware Store.  They will fix you up with compression fittings and spare tubing to do whatever you need.  Really easy fix, considering everything else you are doing.

After you get all assembled, you will have a bunch of air in your line.  As close to the refirge as possible, everything off, open the valve on propane tank, loosen a line and purge the air out of the system.  As soon as you smell the propane, tighten the line, check for leaks, soapy water on all connections. 

Do NOT start unit with any smell of propane or any leaks. It will not be a good outcome.
 

1930

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SpencerPJ said:
Take a piece of your copper tubing to the Hardware Store.  They will fix you up with compression fittings and spare tubing to do whatever you need.  Really easy fix, considering everything else you are doing.

After you get all assembled, you will have a bunch of air in your line.  As close to the refirge as possible, everything off, open the valve on propane tank, loosen a line and purge the air out of the system.  As soon as you smell the propane, tighten the line, check for leaks, soapy water on all connections. 

Do NOT start unit with any smell of propane or any leaks. It will not be a good outcome.


I did not know it would be easy,  ( I mean the repair...........actually I have decided to just replace the entire line rather than splice in a short section )  I know nothing about this at all but I am a very handy person so its no problem for me once I get the information.

Can you please take the time to read this post carefully and answer my questions below, I understand my wordings are not as good as alot of guys, Im a smart guy but I dont have alot of education. If you dont understand would you ask for clarification. Thanks

Unfortunately my only local hardware store is lowes or home depot and its getting very difficult to find an employee that just hadnt transferred from Wal-Mart so I have to rely on the internet to get questions answered.



1- Its sounds like from what Gary said above that the ends are nothing that I cant make with my brake flaring tool? Is that correct?


Is there anything I should put on the threads ( a sealant ) before I make the actual connections?

Next set of questions after the explanation below: 

I have two tanks.........sitting on the front of my trailer.

Off these two tanks is a coupler that connects to the tanks, from there rubber hoses that are hard as a rock almost, from there they go into a regulator, out the bottom of the regulator is more rubber hose ( that seems fairly pliable ) that goes into the piping at the bottom of the camper and is distributed throughout the camper via legs.


https://postimg.cc/VJc3Rpcy

https://postimg.cc/CRH967FR

https://postimg.cc/f3z14dLB



2-  do the hoses typically come with the regulator and if so is there a certain brand of regulator that will give me years of trouble free service over another that isnt worth wasting my time on?



3- How should I be using my tanks? With both always turned on?


Maybe I should replace the rubber hose below the regulator, I am getting a VERY strong propane smell ( outside the camper for sure ) last time I fired up the furnace just to see it work.

4- What is this line called so I can find it easily.



Thanks

 

1930

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Also what style regulator do you suggest? I know there are a couple of different types

From what Ive gathered watching you tube videos there is a regulator that switches over from one tank to another when the one is empty......I would like this type of regulator. Whats its proper name?

Can you tell me if I wanted to go with the taller 30lb tanks ( which I do for convenience ) would I have to also change the propane tank cover that is on their now? I know I will prob need to change the hold down device.

Thats all, I know its alot of questions but once you answer them I will know once and for all for good and I can move on. Thanks
 

Rene T

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If you're using the compression fittings or the flare type connection, there is no need for sealant. Sealant would only be used on a tapered pipe thread. The ends of the hoses which go into the regulator will be tapered and would need sealant.

The regulator is called a "Automatic Changeover Regulator".  You open both tanks. When one tank empties, you'll see the green flag change to red. The tank which the lever is pointing to will be the empty tank. It will have already switched over to the full tank. Just rotate the lever so it's pointing to the full tank, then disconnect the hose from the empty tank, then remove it and get it filled.

There are several out there and they pretty much work on the same principle. Mine happens to be a Marshal regulator.

One thing when opening the valves on the tank, do it slowly and open them ALL the way.

It may be a good idea to change out the short hoses while you're at it.

I would leave the bottom hose alone for now.

If you go to the bigger tanks, yes you would also need to change the cover.
 
It may behoove you yo just stay with the smaller tanks.
 

1930

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Rene T said:
If you're using the compression fittings or the flare type connection, there is no need for sealant. Sealant would only be used on a tapered pipe thread. The ends of the hoses which go into the regulator will be tapered and would need sealant.

The regulator is called a "Automatic Changeover Regulator".  You open both tanks. When one tank empties, you'll see the green flag change to red. The tank which the lever is pointing to will be the empty tank. It will have already switched over to the full tank. Just rotate the lever so it's pointing to the full tank, then disconnect the hose from the empty tank, then remove it and get it filled.

There are several out there and they pretty much work on the same principle. Mine happens to be a Marshal regulator.

One thing when opening the valves on the tank, do it slowly and open them ALL the way.

It may be a good idea to change out the short hoses while you're at it.

I would leave the bottom hose alone for now.

If you go to the bigger tanks, yes you would also need to change the cover.
 
It may behoove you yo just stay with the smaller tanks.

Thank-you for the explanation, I have a marshall regulator on its way now.
 

SpencerPJ

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1930 said:
Unfortunately my only local hardware store is lowes or home depot and its getting very difficult to find an employee that just hadnt transferred from Wal-Mart so I have to rely on the internet to get questions answered.

Agreed, it's hard to keep good help when paying peanuts.  Actually Home Depot tends to have more knowledgeable semi-retired folks that know their business. 

You good for now with propane questions until you get your regulator?  Hopefully the fittings bolt right up, we know how that goes  ???.  You'll be a pro with this TT after your upgrades.
 

1930

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SpencerPJ said:
Agreed, it's hard to keep good help when paying peanuts.  Actually Home Depot tends to have more knowledgeable semi-retired folks that know their business. 

You good for now with propane questions until you get your regulator?  Hopefully the fittings bolt right up, we know how that goes  ???.  You'll be a pro with this TT after your upgrades.
Thanks, scratch that last post, I had a regulator but I backed out, lots of different Marshalls avail and Im not sure on the differences, plus I didnt see any with hoses included on E-bay.

Im gonna keep looking and if anyone sees something that they thing would work good for me than that would be nice.

Im not looking for the cheapest
 

SpencerPJ

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So how do you know you even need a new regulator?  Just hard hoses?  If it was me, I would splice my propane line back together by the refrigerator, connect up to the 'new' re-fridge, and give it a whirl.  Nothing to lose.  I would probably exchange at least one tank for now and flip the arrow to point at that tank, just for best initial outcome chances.
 

Isaac-1

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Generally it is a good idea to replace propane regulators about every 10 years as they contain a rubber diaphragm that has a tendency to dry rot.
 

Bookumdanno

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Looking at his pictures, he doesn't have a change over regulator. Both tanks would be feeding at same time.
Here's one from ebay with the pigtails.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fairview-RV-Camper-Propane-Automatic-LP-Gas-Regulator-15-QCC-Acme-Pigtails/282628641641?epid=782491287&hash=item41cdfad369:g:BXYAAOSwuspY98DN:sc:USPSPriority!25266!US!-1:rk:4:pf:0
Here's one from Camping World, but pigtails to tank are extra
https://www.campingworld.com/propane-auto-changeover-two-stage-regulator?CAWELAID=120030630000006560&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI37HUjcTS3gIVx7fACh1b7Q_UEAQYAiABEgJLFPD_BwE

My 5th Wheel has hard lines running under camper to protect the line from hazards on the road but still flexible.
Another place to get connectors would be a Propane supply house.
 
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