Advice on repairing the ceiling

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reedfranklin

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I am asking for advice on a method of repairing the ceiling,  can I tear it down and replace from inside?
 

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Rene T

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Welcome to the forum. It looks to me like you have no choice but to tear it down and see what you have inside the roof. From what I see, you'll likely find all your rafters will be rotted along with the roof sheathing. I think you have a big job ahead of you.
 

SpencerPJ

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Rene T said:
Welcome to the forum. It looks to me like you have no choice but to tear it down and see what you have inside the roof. From what I see, you'll likely find all your rafters will be rotted along with the roof sheathing. I think you have a big job ahead of you.

X2
 

reedfranklin

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I removed the pan eling unde it is just framing and pink board insulation. some of the framing is rotted.
My thoughts are to remove remove and replace the rotted framing and reaseal the seams of the skins and replace all the screws.
I was thinking of using Butyl tape to reseal the seams?
Any help would be appreciated if you know what I should use on the seems
Thanks
 

SpencerPJ

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Would be great to know what you are working on, make, year etc.  Also, a picture of the outside of roof would give us a better understanding.
 

reedfranklin

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1968 Home built, It has a title  and it says Home made. I have been told there were palns you could get and build your own.
The builder was an electrician and sound man for the Fair grounds, This was used an communication/sound trailer full of electronic equipment.
Has basics so a person could camp also.
 

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reedfranklin

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pics of interior
 

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SpencerPJ

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Interesting, that'll keep you busy for a short while.  So the roof?  is it one solid piece of aluminum?  I would imagine the leak came from a roof vent or something.  I'd attack and stop leak first.  I solid washing would be the first place I started.  Then I would research for great adhesive caulking for aluminum.  Butyl Tape probably would work, seems you would have to do a lot of disassembly to use it properly
 

Rene T

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I used butyl caulk in a tube and works real good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HMIS74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Hanr3

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Marine sealant will work as well. It's water proof, weather proof, made to adhere to aluminum. Not cheap, but works exceptional well. It's used to seal aquariums, and seems on boats. I use it to seal holes that pierce the hull of the boat, even underwater.

Looks like a great project camper. Could use a few updates while your in there.

I'd find and fix the roof leaks before you fix anything else. No need in fixing the inside if the roof still leaks. Won't take long for all your new work to rot out from water damage. I'd be careful replacing the roof rafters. The roof maybe attached on the top side and that will make replacement a nightmare. You can sister another rafter to the original after you remove all mold, if there is any. Make sure the wood is completely dry before you add another board to the side of it. If not, the new one will rot too. Don't use pressure treated lumber. The chemicals in the treatment will eat the aluminum. You could get by with pressure treated if you use a barrier, like a piece of rubber to keep the pressure treated and aluminum separated. But if you penetrate the rubber seal, you expose the chemicals to the aluminum and introduce corrosion. Only a matter of time before you have a hole.

To find the roof leaks, remove the ceiling, turn on a garden sprinkler and let it saturate the roof. Grab a flashlight and look for leaks inside. Water follows the path of least resistance and the point of entry could be several feet away from where you see the drip. Once you locate the leak, patch the leaky area and run the water test again. I did a water test on my boat. I bought it as a project to rebuild into what I wanted. Stripped to the hull and then set it outside in a rain storm. put the plug in the transom and let if fill up. Crawled underneath the next day and looked for leaks. Found none, drained it, let it dry in the sun for a few days, the commenced the rebuild. You can't test by filling the camper with water, but you can simulate a rain storm. Keep us posted. 
 

reedfranklin

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Rene T said:
I used butyl caulk in a tube and works real good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HMIS74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, I was thinking of opening the seams and using butyl tape and trimming excess,but the caulk might be easier to use, I had thought of marine caulk also but I see a lot of posts saying dont use anyhting but butyl tape.
Now I have another decision to ponder
 

reedfranklin

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reedfranklin said:
Thanks, I was thinking of opening the seams and using butyl tape and trimming excess,but the caulk might be easier to use, I had thought of marine caulk also but I see a lot of posts saying dont use anyhting but butyl tape.
Now I have another decision to ponder
Really great advice I appreciate it , all you wrote is the track I was thinking also, I have the interior out and have found some of the problems,
mostly the top seams top of side and roof center,
Unfortunately the builder must not have been able to get a a large enough sheet of Aluminum to cover it.  I plan on replacing all the rotted wood I can opening the seams, sealing  and replacing every screw with a stainless steel screw.
Then check for leaks.
If the roof panels arent attached/ glued to the roof underlayment then I will remove them completely to repair underpayment buit I dont think its going to be needed, The underlayment looks great except for the corner that needs repaired,.
I noticed this trailer has a folder over roof panels like other vintage trailers except it doesnt have a J rail
I am looking at updating the sink  and gas lines but I want to keep the cabinet and a desk table it has
Thnaks, again
 

Rene T

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reedfranklin said:
whats better for insulation fiberglass or pink foam board?

Compare the R rating of both. The higher the number, the better insulating.
Maybe foam would be better. Foam may not absorb water as much as glass. Having aluminum for the exterior, there may be allot of condensation inside the walls and ceiling.
 
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