Alaska with the Brewer's 06

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June 17, 2006    Day  25    Inuvik back to Dawson City via Dempster HWY in reverse

This saga is going to begin as we exit the Inuvik airport at 6p.m. when our tour is over on Friday.  The saga will end 20 and 1/2 hours later.

We are pretty excited about everything we just saw in Tuk.  We seem to have lots of energy and think we can drive all night back to Dawson City by trading off driving.  It should be a 10 hour drive. However there were a couple of problems to consider.  There is only one place to fuel up along this 460-mile road about ? way in Eagle Plains.  They close at 11:00 pm and do not pump gas again until 6:30 a.m.  We don?t think we can make it to Eagle before they close as it is about 7 hours away and despite one time change in our favor it will be close.  But Terry has an idea.  We buy a 6 gallon gas can at the local market for $20.00. (Oh well you can always use a spare gas can) Another tourist tells us fuel in Fort MacPhereson  is almost 25 cents a gallon cheaper and we can top off our tank there (98 miles into the trip) and we decide to buy the extra gas there as well. After purchasing a big bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken, some Hershey?s kisses, a couple of bottles of water and some granola bars we are ready for our all nighter.

  Recall it does not get even the slightest bit dark so it will be no problem, an adventure right?  We had just driven this Highway the day before so we know what to expect. We are on the road again at 6:30p.m.  The gravel road is pretty good here and we make good time going the maximum 90 KM per hour.  When we get to the Mackenzie River Ferry crossing where we had encountered the long delay the day before, we are waved right onto the Ferry and go across slick as a whistle.  No delays, it is a piece of cake.  Off we drive for the second Ferry crossing.  When we pull up we notice there is a line up of about 25 cars in front of us and we are just behind an 18-wheeler gas truck.  We wait for about 10 minutes and nothing seems to be happening so Terry gets out and walks up to talk to the guys in front.  The guy in front has been waiting 9 hours already! The ferry has closed due to the winds and the waves on the water.  No one has a clue as to when it will open again.  Well we break out the chicken and have dinner in the car. I have a nap as I?m exhausted and my turn to drive will come soon enough and I don?t want to be tired.  Well we waited 2 ? hours and finally Terry runs back to the car and cuts out of the line and up in front of a string of big rigs and RV?s (recall we are in the car now)    A nice man told him they are only taking 4 wheel vehicles across the ferry at this time.  They have built a new berm at the end and it is rough to get on and off but we can make it because we know how to climb rocks we?ve been to Moab!  So off we go.  We load onto the Ferry with very little problem.  On the ferry it rocks and rolls and water splashes and I am really pretty scared.  Water is washing aboard. I hate ferries.  We get off and it is not too bad and off we go the Fort MacPhearson fuel stop only 8 miles away.  We find it easily. Pull up and I go ?in? to pay.  I can?t find any door open.  He can?t pump fuel.  A little kid on his bike rides up and tells us they are closed.  They closed at 6.  There is no other place to get fuel here. It might have been cheaper but it was closed.

  Our plan is foiled but our hope is that since the ferry stopped traffic for so long that the Eagle Plains gas station will stay open a little later to help those caught in the delay.  There is only one choice and only one road so off we go.  As we get closer to the Arctic Circle the wind picks up a lot!  It is cold and darkish looking with clouds coming in.  We stopped at the Yukon border for a better picture of the ?Welcome to Yukon? sign and Terry gets out to take the picture.  I hear holler from across the street.  Someone is shouting, ?Hello can you come over here?? We drive across the road to another big sign and there huddled against it is a bike rider with all of his gear.  The wind is howling so much you can?t hear very well.  It is very cold.  He is sitting on his bike with black plastic wrapped around him and leaning into the sign.  I ask if he is ok and he shrugs. He says he is from Belgium and his accent is very thick French.  I ask if he wants a ride or something.  He says no he will wait it out.  It is about 11:30 pm.  He said he rode for 8 hours in the wind.  He asked if we had a bit of food for him.  Well I packed up a big piece of chicken and offered him almost anything else we had to eat but he only wanted the chicken. He asked where we were from and I said USA.  I hope he remembers the nice American couple that wanted to help him. I will never forget him.  I wonder about his story.  Those who bicycle to the Arctic Circle are real adventurers.

It starts to rain.  Now this gravel road is a mud bath.  Terry thinks we are driving a panel truck as the back window is completely covered with mud and no light comes through.  The sun behind us is the rear view mirror is pinkish and looks a tiny bit like an Arizona sky.  A big rainbow appears straight down from sky as the sun shines through the rain.  The poor biker is now in the rain.
I?m so glad we saw this scenery when it was clear as there is nothing to see now but clouds and rain and mud.  Ukkkk.  There are very few cars on the road as we finally come to Eagle Plains, our hoped for fuel stop at 1:30 a.m.  They are closed.  The parking lot is filled with big rigs; cars, campers and all are filthy.  I go into the  Motel and it is closed with no vacancy.  People are sleeping on the floor all over the lobby.  The bathroom is clean and welcome to me but I can?t find my toothbrush in the back of the mess in the car. We pull into a parking space beside the motel.    We haul out our pillows; lay the car sets back and try to get some sleep as we are not going anywhere until morning when we can buy their $4.98 cent a gallon fuel. Now we have a souvenir gas can from Inuvik still unused.  We can?t get comfortable, toss and turn and Terry coughs all night as he is getting a cold.  Finally he takes off his shoes and socks and falls asleep.  I fall asleep when I use the blanket to cover my head to block out the light.  We awoke at 6:20am  and started up the car to get into the gas pump area to be outta there at 6:30 when they opened.  Well they opened at 8 a.m.  I went into the motel coffee shop and got 2 large coffees to go and listened to truckers say ?Yeah I?m living my dream!?  Everyone was frustrated.  It was still raining and very muddy.

We are the first ones fueled up and are out on the road by 8:10 a.m. We eat granola bars fro breakfast.  We climb those beautiful mountain passes I told you about a couple of days ago, only now they are completely covered in clouds and fog.  We can barely see the road in front of us.  I thought I saw a wolf but when we loaded the pictures on the computer it was actually a big fox.  460 miles never seemed so long.  We arrived back at our motorhome in Dawson at 2:30 p.m.  We immediately got change for their pressure washer and turned our car back into a vehicle we recognized.  We did laundry.  I went to bed early and did not fix dinner.  I am beat!  I have been to the Arctic Ocean and back.



Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:0    Car fuel, $4.98  per gallon  We drove 967 miles, 940 on gravel road!
Wildlife sightings: fox, porcupine, Terry thinks he saw Saaquatch in the wee hours of the drive
Temps:  High 55      Low 45
Camping Costs:  $0  slept in car
 

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HAPPY ANNIVERSARY  AUDREY AND SHAYNE and many more.  You better be nice to Audrey or she will leave at the next stop!!!!
 
Great pictures Betty and wow somebody better wash that vehicle so you can find it. LOL  Thanks everyone for the congrats and I'll never be able to live the Amarillo feat down.  She brings it up all the time and please do't let her cut off the food,  Guess maybe I just eat too much. 
 
Betty Brewer said:
Yep, it was a little airplane wheel.  Note how small it is . 
Betty.

Betty:

That's not small, you should see the wheel on Ron R's Mooney.

Great report, you are going to outdo yourself on Copper Canyon.

Thank you,
 
June 18, 2006? ? Day 26? ?Dawson City, Yukon Canada to Chicken, Alaska, USA

Eureka,? ? After 25 days and 2037? miles (since we crossed into Canada)? we have finally arrived in Alaska.? We have spent $1100.00 in diesel fuel to get here.

We left? Guggieville Campground in Dawson City and head to ferry.? Arrived at ferry at 9:02 and boarded her at 10:02.? The trip takes 15 minutes and there were several in front of us.? We have caught up to the caravans.? We spotted a fox along the road but I?m not sure I got her on camera.

We head to the Top of the World Highway.? We missed the ?Welcome to Alaska? sign as it was full of the 23 rigs traveling with the Adventure Caravan. The road today lived up to every expectation I had of Alaska.? It was bumpy, it was pot holed, it was narrow, it had beautiful views, it was fun!? All I could think of to say was ?whoohoo what a ride!?? We did have our first casualty of the trip.? Around one of the winding downhill roads we heard a crash.? The coffee carafe fell to the floor and broke off the handle.? This pot has traveled thousands of miles with us with no problemo so it tells you a bit about the ride!? The road was not too dusty as it rained last night but it was dried off by today.? We have none of the dirt like yesterday.? I thought the no guardrails and narrow roads were harrowing but when I asked Terry how it was, he said the Mexico Baja road was way worse.? We enjoyed sunshine for the drive and loved our short day?s drive.

We are dry camped in Chicken at Chicken Gold Camp for $10.00 a night and paid an extra $5 for wifi so I could keep up with this journal and get my email. We took a walk around camp and noted a huge gold dredge that has just been designated as an Alaskan historic site suitable for restoration. We can see it from where we are parked.? I love the little gift store and they take US dollars and the prices are in US currency and this camp has no trees.? We did not have to unhook and have enjoyed a relaxing day.? We are off to Tok tomorrow.? Maybe our mail will be there.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 110? ?
Wildlife sightings: 1 fox
Temps:? High 70? ? ? ?Low 60
Camping Costs: $10 to dry camp.
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? GPS Coordinates:? 64.09913,-142.06712







 

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The good news is a few miles out of Chicken the road gets MUCH better.  The worst is behind you.
 
Tok. Lowest fuel cost is at the first gas station on east end of town $3.07/deisel. Has LAUNDRY GAS as the sign and is across hywy from Fast Eddie's restaurant. Gateway salmon bake & rv park is cheap, has long, level flat sites, free wifi, and the food is good. I am in site #2 and am pointed at internet sat 127.
 
Fast Eddie's is a pretty decent restaurant, too.

They bring the mail down to Tok from Fairbanks only a couple times a week, so if your mail isn't there be prepared to wait 3-4 days for the next delivery.  However, they will forward it to another P.O. if you want. Just be sure to inquire about the scheduling if you do - mail doesn't travel every day like it does in the lower 48.
 
We had breakfast at Fast Eddie's the other day and are going to again today before we leave for Fairbanks.
 
June 19, 2006    Day 27  Chicken, Alaska  to Tok,  Alaska

We had a pleasant drive over Taylor Highway and saw the remains of a forest fire that burned 1,600,00 acres in 2004.  It was the largest fire (in acres burned) in Alaskan history.  We have also caught up with the caravans.  We followed 10 rigs in front of us for miles before they pulled off at a rest stop.  It?s more fun to be in a caravan than to follow one.

We arrived in Tok (rhymes with joke).  We are in The Salmon Bake and RV Park, a pleasant treed campground with free wifi.  We filled up the car with gas and got a free car wash.  Our mail was here as planned and it is a beautiful sunny day.  We both commented how much we like being ?Back in the USA.? It just feels more comfortable.  I like it because my money works here.  We used our Tour Saver book for the free ? pound of fudge. We both bought T-shirts and think we got bargains.  At the visitor center we were entertained by residents who played guitar, banjo and told tales of Alaska.  We learned that Tok is the coldest inhabited city in the North.  They get winter temperatures from ?60 to -80 degrees below 0  with no wind chill factor.  Kids do not have to go to school if it gets to ?50 degrees. They also get temps in the 100?s  in summer so their temp swing is 180 degrees. They say you have to be real hearty to live here year round. (ya think?)  They also claim if you go straight north you will not find a road until you hit Scandinavia and if you go straight south you won?t hit a road until you hit Hilo, Hawaii.  I would need a globe to prove this for myself.  All Alaskan travelers who drive into Alaska will pass through this little city of 1200.  They boast of no form of government, no mayor, no elected officials, no building codes, no zoning laws, no taxes and no lawyers!  They call this the true wilderness.
Off to the big city of Fairbanks tomorrow.

Can you find the lawnmower in the second picture?

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 76  fueled motorhome @ $3.12    per gallon diesel
Wildlife sightings: 1 rabbit
Temps:  High 72      Low 47
Camping Costs:  $14.00 dry camping
GPS: 63.3350, -142.8555

 

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June 20, 2006    Day  28  Tok to Fairbanks, AK

We left the Alaska Highway today as it officially ended and became the Richardson Highway.  We got photos of the end of the line. We traveled a total of over 1422 miles on this historic highway.  We got our first glimpse of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline.  We also saw 2 moose right along the road. I love our new camera.  Learned today that it is illegal in Fairbanks to give a moose alcohol.  It was beautiful scenery today and a short drive.  We passed Eielson Air Force Base that is a northern base on the ready for our air defense!  We were not allowed to take any photos during this stretch of the road. We passed the North Pole and Santa?s shop and I gotta go back. It is only 20 miles back.
We met up with Ned and Lorna and Russ at the Chena Marina RV Park.  We have a water front sight and can watch the floatplanes depart and there are a billion insects out on the water.  We will stay here a week as there are so many tourist things to do here in Fairbanks, Alaska?s second largest city.  The parks are full of tourists to see ?the Summer Solstice?  but I can't figure out the big deal as it has been light all night for days.

First stop was a haircut at Super Cuts but they had a 2-hour waiting list and I passed.  A trip to Safeway and I am a happy camper. We planned our weekly activities this evening and showed each other our tourist purchases. We bemoaned our  rig squeaks and the need for WD 40 and the things that shook loose in the trip so far.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 211.5 
Wildlife sightings: 1 chipmunk, 2 moose
Temps:  High 74      Low 50
Camping Costs:  $34.00 per night with water/electric Chena Marina RV  Park
GPS: 64.816665, -147.91170
 

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Welcome to Fairbanks.? I graduated from Fairbanks HS in 1953.? My old HS is still there on Cushman St..? ?It is now City Hall, and an historical monument. ::)?

If you want to get a solstice treat, drive up the Steese highway to Cleary Summit and watch the sun skim the horizon and rise again after midnight (standard time of course).?

Another kinda neat spot is the FE #2 dredge and camp at Chatanika on the Steese.? The old Fairbanks Exploration camp of corrugated iron buildings is now another historical monument.? I worked there one summer. Our old mess hall is now a bar and fairly decent Italian restaurant.? At least it was in 2003.?

Harding and Birch Lakes down the Richardson are nice lakes for fishing and boating.

The Museum at the U of A is worth a visit.? ?
 
Carl Lundquist said:
Welcome to Fairbanks.? The Museum at the U of A is worth a visit.? ?

Thanks for the tips Carl,

We took in the  Museum this afternoon and it was spectacular.  This new building just opened in March of 2006.  We drove by the street in old Town area where the Solstice activities will begin.  At 4:40 pm. it was mobbed.  Streets all closed off and  no place to park. Tons of people milling about.  Having just been to so many remote and uncrowded spots this is  a bit of a shock for us.  Likely we will stay in this evening.  Will check out spots you mentioned some time this week.  Thanks again.

Betty
 
June 21, 2006? Day 29  ?Longest Day of Year Summer Solstice? ? ? Fairbanks, Alaska

Today is the longest day of the year and a seeming holiday here in Alaska. Town is filled with visitors just for the event.? The photos show last evening at about 10:00 p.m.

Today we visited the University of Alaska, Museum of the North.? I have visited many, many museums all over the world and this one is certainly in my top 5 of all.? It opened in March of 2006.? The building itself is a work of art.? The exhibits features Alaska?s 5 geographic regions and focus on the states rich cultural and natural heritage.? We rented the headphones and listened to narration on 60 items with in the exhibit.? The second floor art gallery was a unique combination of modern art, native crafts and the typical oil paintings.? To give you an idea of the details portrayed, the seagull poop was totally realistic with the seabird display as was the fossil feces.? The massive stuffed polar bear may be the only one we see on our trip and he was impressive.? We watched a demonstration of Alaskan native games and I was given the opportunity to play ?Eskimo yoyo.?? I did pretty well.?

We then did a run to Sam?s Club and I tried again to get a haircut.? Seem Super cuts closed early due to the ?Holiday.? We dined on rib eye steaks purchased at a meat packing plant just outside of Fairbanks that were from South Dakota and delicious. Terry is the best at the bar-b-que !? Tomorrow we pan for gold and visit the Discovery boat.
Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 0? ?
Wildlife sightings: 0,? ?but many in museum!
Temps:? High 70? ? ? ? Low 50
Camping Costs: $35.00
GPS: 64.81665, -147.91170
 

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AAHHHH Yes Betty has developed a new talent.  Loved the Cloud Pic.  Don't tell Terry  You look as tho this trip is agreeing with you    Looking younger.
 
June 22, 2006? ?Day 30? ? Fairbanks, AK
Today we panned for gold at the El Dorado gold mine.? Between us, Terry and I netted $12.00 worth of gold dust.? I bought a locket in which to store the gold flakes. It cost $19.95, trip cost $29.95 net loss? $37.00 but what a time we had!? This was a very professional slick tour of a placer mine.? We got to pan for gold, to travel by train through a perma frost mine and learned of the hardships early miners had with the weather and frozen ground. The only down side was the 12 tour busses who joined our tour.? We have hit tourist season and the cruise ship side trips.? You may note all the extra people in our photos. Our cell phone worked today and I got to talk with friend Linda L. and to John W.? Terry bought a new watch at Wal-Mart to replace the one where the battery died. Ned, Russ and Terry are all having automobile service done here.? ? It?s nice to be in civilization again.

We saw some more of the800 miles of the Alyskan Pipeline.? We learned that in 1973 Fairbanks economy was impacted when many went to work for the Pipeline.? There were no waiters, no bank tellers as all went to work to make more money on the Pipeline.
In the afternoon we sailed on the Riverboat Discovery a big sternwheeler and visited Athabascan Indian Village.? We viewed a kennel in which dogs are in training for Iditarod.? Susan Butcher (4 time Iditarod winner) was not here as she is under going chemotherapy for leukemia.? We watched float planes land and take off.

Smokey just for you, I learned more today about little trapper cabins.? Seems cabins were built one day?s journey apart for trappers along the trap lines. They needed shelter from the ?50-degree temps and these little log huts were a welcome comfort to trapper for the night.? So was our little cabin a few days ago. Do you know the difference between a reindeer and a caribou?? Answer:? Reindeers can fly?. Actually the reindeer is a domesticated caribeau.? ?We finished off the day with dinner at The Pump House.? ?They have some of the same pump hoses on display used to hose off the gravel during the mining processes. It was lovely setting with a less than memorable dinner but we had a good time.? Tomorrow we visit Santa?s House and the North Pole.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:? 0?
Wildlife sightings: Reindeer family
Temps:? High? 71? ? ? Low 49
Camping Costs: $35.00
GPS: Same as yesterday.
 

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Terry & Betty,

While you are in Fairbanks, take the tour of the Fort Knox gold mine.  It is a modern mine with a fascinating tour (at least they had a tour in 2003).  One of the highlights was holding a gold ingot worth $95,000.  We also enjoyed the Musk Ox animal research farm run by the University.

Enjoying your travelogues.  It's making me eager for a third trip.

Jeannine
 

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