June 17, 2006 Day 25 Inuvik back to Dawson City via Dempster HWY in reverse
This saga is going to begin as we exit the Inuvik airport at 6p.m. when our tour is over on Friday. The saga will end 20 and 1/2 hours later.
We are pretty excited about everything we just saw in Tuk. We seem to have lots of energy and think we can drive all night back to Dawson City by trading off driving. It should be a 10 hour drive. However there were a couple of problems to consider. There is only one place to fuel up along this 460-mile road about ? way in Eagle Plains. They close at 11:00 pm and do not pump gas again until 6:30 a.m. We don?t think we can make it to Eagle before they close as it is about 7 hours away and despite one time change in our favor it will be close. But Terry has an idea. We buy a 6 gallon gas can at the local market for $20.00. (Oh well you can always use a spare gas can) Another tourist tells us fuel in Fort MacPhereson is almost 25 cents a gallon cheaper and we can top off our tank there (98 miles into the trip) and we decide to buy the extra gas there as well. After purchasing a big bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken, some Hershey?s kisses, a couple of bottles of water and some granola bars we are ready for our all nighter.
Recall it does not get even the slightest bit dark so it will be no problem, an adventure right? We had just driven this Highway the day before so we know what to expect. We are on the road again at 6:30p.m. The gravel road is pretty good here and we make good time going the maximum 90 KM per hour. When we get to the Mackenzie River Ferry crossing where we had encountered the long delay the day before, we are waved right onto the Ferry and go across slick as a whistle. No delays, it is a piece of cake. Off we drive for the second Ferry crossing. When we pull up we notice there is a line up of about 25 cars in front of us and we are just behind an 18-wheeler gas truck. We wait for about 10 minutes and nothing seems to be happening so Terry gets out and walks up to talk to the guys in front. The guy in front has been waiting 9 hours already! The ferry has closed due to the winds and the waves on the water. No one has a clue as to when it will open again. Well we break out the chicken and have dinner in the car. I have a nap as I?m exhausted and my turn to drive will come soon enough and I don?t want to be tired. Well we waited 2 ? hours and finally Terry runs back to the car and cuts out of the line and up in front of a string of big rigs and RV?s (recall we are in the car now) A nice man told him they are only taking 4 wheel vehicles across the ferry at this time. They have built a new berm at the end and it is rough to get on and off but we can make it because we know how to climb rocks we?ve been to Moab! So off we go. We load onto the Ferry with very little problem. On the ferry it rocks and rolls and water splashes and I am really pretty scared. Water is washing aboard. I hate ferries. We get off and it is not too bad and off we go the Fort MacPhearson fuel stop only 8 miles away. We find it easily. Pull up and I go ?in? to pay. I can?t find any door open. He can?t pump fuel. A little kid on his bike rides up and tells us they are closed. They closed at 6. There is no other place to get fuel here. It might have been cheaper but it was closed.
Our plan is foiled but our hope is that since the ferry stopped traffic for so long that the Eagle Plains gas station will stay open a little later to help those caught in the delay. There is only one choice and only one road so off we go. As we get closer to the Arctic Circle the wind picks up a lot! It is cold and darkish looking with clouds coming in. We stopped at the Yukon border for a better picture of the ?Welcome to Yukon? sign and Terry gets out to take the picture. I hear holler from across the street. Someone is shouting, ?Hello can you come over here?? We drive across the road to another big sign and there huddled against it is a bike rider with all of his gear. The wind is howling so much you can?t hear very well. It is very cold. He is sitting on his bike with black plastic wrapped around him and leaning into the sign. I ask if he is ok and he shrugs. He says he is from Belgium and his accent is very thick French. I ask if he wants a ride or something. He says no he will wait it out. It is about 11:30 pm. He said he rode for 8 hours in the wind. He asked if we had a bit of food for him. Well I packed up a big piece of chicken and offered him almost anything else we had to eat but he only wanted the chicken. He asked where we were from and I said USA. I hope he remembers the nice American couple that wanted to help him. I will never forget him. I wonder about his story. Those who bicycle to the Arctic Circle are real adventurers.
It starts to rain. Now this gravel road is a mud bath. Terry thinks we are driving a panel truck as the back window is completely covered with mud and no light comes through. The sun behind us is the rear view mirror is pinkish and looks a tiny bit like an Arizona sky. A big rainbow appears straight down from sky as the sun shines through the rain. The poor biker is now in the rain.
I?m so glad we saw this scenery when it was clear as there is nothing to see now but clouds and rain and mud. Ukkkk. There are very few cars on the road as we finally come to Eagle Plains, our hoped for fuel stop at 1:30 a.m. They are closed. The parking lot is filled with big rigs; cars, campers and all are filthy. I go into the Motel and it is closed with no vacancy. People are sleeping on the floor all over the lobby. The bathroom is clean and welcome to me but I can?t find my toothbrush in the back of the mess in the car. We pull into a parking space beside the motel. We haul out our pillows; lay the car sets back and try to get some sleep as we are not going anywhere until morning when we can buy their $4.98 cent a gallon fuel. Now we have a souvenir gas can from Inuvik still unused. We can?t get comfortable, toss and turn and Terry coughs all night as he is getting a cold. Finally he takes off his shoes and socks and falls asleep. I fall asleep when I use the blanket to cover my head to block out the light. We awoke at 6:20am and started up the car to get into the gas pump area to be outta there at 6:30 when they opened. Well they opened at 8 a.m. I went into the motel coffee shop and got 2 large coffees to go and listened to truckers say ?Yeah I?m living my dream!? Everyone was frustrated. It was still raining and very muddy.
We are the first ones fueled up and are out on the road by 8:10 a.m. We eat granola bars fro breakfast. We climb those beautiful mountain passes I told you about a couple of days ago, only now they are completely covered in clouds and fog. We can barely see the road in front of us. I thought I saw a wolf but when we loaded the pictures on the computer it was actually a big fox. 460 miles never seemed so long. We arrived back at our motorhome in Dawson at 2:30 p.m. We immediately got change for their pressure washer and turned our car back into a vehicle we recognized. We did laundry. I went to bed early and did not fix dinner. I am beat! I have been to the Arctic Ocean and back.
Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:0 Car fuel, $4.98 per gallon We drove 967 miles, 940 on gravel road!
Wildlife sightings: fox, porcupine, Terry thinks he saw Saaquatch in the wee hours of the drive
Temps: High 55 Low 45
Camping Costs: $0 slept in car