Any solar people on here use Golf cart batteries?

[Ole1830]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and had a quick question.

I've got a '97 Coleman westlake that I use for dry camping and trips to Rocky Point Mexico.? I also have some solar panels and a charge controller.

Recently, I've been having trouble with my deep cycle group 24 battery not holding much of a charge.? I thought since I needed to replace the battery, and there was room available on the tongue of my trailer to convert it and use 2 GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries.? The new setup shrugs off loads on the battery 100x better than the old system.

Here's my question though:

If using a CC20 Solarpro Solar charge controller, what should my "cut out set point" be for my new and improved battery bank?? It's my understanding I should lower it, because the controller comes set up for regular deep cycle type batteries.?

Does anyone have a similar set up?? I use an 80w and a 65w panel if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Matt

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The setting for wet cell (lead acid) deep cycle batteries will be fine for your golf cart batteries too.  If your old Group 24 battery was a gel cell, you should switch to the wet cell/ lead-acid charging mode.

You will find your golf cart batteries will outlast the old Group 24 12V  as well as out-performing it.

 

[Ole1830]

Thanks for your help, RV Roamer.

Here's a couple of pics of the finished setup.  I got the propane tank mounted today.  I really like the extra battery capacity.  ;D

Dual battery
Battery switch
Single battery

I got the boxes from WalMart for $3 each, the switch and hardware from Autozone for <$20, and the batteries from Sam's Club for ~$45 a piece. 

Matt

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Nice photos and nice workmanship!

Is the switch in the photo a battery disconnect?  It looks a little light for carrying the amperage that the whole trailer might draw. Looks like it might be rated at 20 amps?  But if you are only running some lights and a tv/stereo its should be adequate.

 

[Ole1830]

Yep.  The switch is pretty much a light duty one.  I guess 20A would be about right.  The only thing I run on DC is a stereo/CD player, water pump, heater fan, and a couple of lights inside the trailer.

I have a 25 amp fuse B4 the switch, so that would probably blow before anything bad happened to the switch. 

Thanks for the kind comments,

Matt

 

[blueblood]

This setups concerns me. I don't see any venting for batteries when releasing gases and a switch in the middle which will arc. What am I missing  ???

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Good catch, blueblood. I missed that shortcoming completely!  Venting is indeed a requirement.

 

[Ole1830]

There is venting in both boxes.  Both of the holes that the + and - wires go through aren't siliconed.

Also, the tops aren't even close to an airtight seal.  We're talking $3 WalMart storage containers here.      That is a good suggestion though. 

Matt

 

[Karl]

Matt,

Even though they aren't airtight, you really should put some fairly large holes in them near the top - hydrogen being lighter than air; and a drain hole in the bottom of each. Hydrogen doesn't need oxygen to burn, and mixed with air you have the makings of a really nice bomb!   A 25 amp fuse won't do much to protect a 20 amp switch. The fuse should be of a lower rating, say 15 amps, than the switch. Also, you may want to consider replacing it with a weatherproof switch such as is used for home 110 volt outside lighting, and mount it outside the boxes to prevent any chance of a spark igniting the gas.