Battery disconnect

[tlmgcamp]

Ok...looking to move battery into garage for storage on battery maintainer. I have Apex Nano 194bhs with the off-grid solar panel. The FLA has 2 pairs of wires connected. One is a pretty heavy wire which I suspect is the cable to the converter. There is another pair that looks like 12ga and it has an in-line 20amp fuse.

From reading posts of others, I believe this is the process:

1. Disconnect panel from controller understanding that panel is still active. Put wire nuts on disconnected wires.

QUESTION: Is there a first and second wire to disconnect?

2. Disconnect negative wires at battery, then positive wires.

3. Reverse to reinstall but cover panel during process.

Comments?

 

[Ex-Calif]

Not sure the dilemma here but disconnecting the battery(ies) is the first step in any electrical work. Negative wires first as you state.

I don't understand the comment about wire nuts unless for some reason you plan to keep shore power hooked up. And in that case you don't have to store the batteries?

 

[SpencerPJ]

I always disconnect negative first
and
Connect negative last

Keeps accidents from happening if a wrench touches something grounded.

 

[tlmgcamp]

Not sure the dilemma here but disconnecting the battery(ies) is the first step in any electrical work. Negative wires first as you state.

I don't understand the comment about wire nuts unless for some reason you plan to keep shore power hooked up. And in that case you don't have to store the batteries?

When I disconnect the wires from the panel at the controller I planned to put wire nuts on the bare wire ends from the panel as they will remain energized by the panel

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

The standard automotive practice is to remove negative first. But, some RV inverters instruct to unhook positive first. Maybe there's a compromise there where you unhook the inverter then the batteries. There's just enough ambuguity there to make you need to figure out a plan for your specific rig and not a general concensus.

If it helps minimize any concern about unhooking live panels just do it at night. Or climb up there and put a blanket over them.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[gwinger]

The smaller wire with the fuse may go to the tongue jack.

 

[tlmgcamp]

The standard automotive practice is to remove negative first. But, some RV inverters instruct to unhook positive first. Maybe there's a compromise there where you unhook the inverter then the batteries. There's just enough ambuguity there to make you need to figure out a plan for your specific rig and not a general concensus.

If it helps minimize any concern about unhooking live panels just do it at night. Or climb up there and put a blanket over them.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Thanks...no inverter.

 

[tlmgcamp]

The smaller wire with the fuse may go to the tongue jack.

No tongue jack

 

[OldWEB]

Just a question on why you would bring the battery in if you already have a 'charger' already? The 200W(?) solar panel should keep it charged... forever.

 

[gwinger]

No tongue jack

So you say you have no tongue jack or just a manual jack?
It may feed the CO/propane alarm. Some are wired to bypass the disconnect switch.

 

[SpencerPJ]

It may feed the CO/propane alarm. Some are wired to bypass the disconnect switch.

That would stink. That is one of the very parasitic draws I'm out to stop. I put the disconnect on the negative side.

 

[tlmgcamp]

So you say you have no tongue jack or just a manual jack?
It may feed the CO/propane alarm. Some are wired to bypass the disconnect switch.

It's a 20amp fuse which seems over kill for CO sensor. After some thought, I am guessing it's the electric brakes. Going direct to battery instead of through the electrical system of the TT would minimize the potential for interpretation

 

[gwinger]

It's a 20amp fuse which seems over kill for CO sensor. After some thought, I am guessing it's the electric brakes. Going direct to battery instead of through the electrical system of the TT would minimize the potential for interpretation

Possible. It may go through the breakaway switch.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Not sure the dilemma here but disconnecting the battery(ies) is the first step in any electrical work. Negative wires first as you state.

I don't understand the comment about wire nuts unless for some reason you plan to keep shore power hooked up. And in that case you don't have to store the batteries?

It's just smart practice. A few months from now somebody might plug the trailer in, forgetting that the battery cables are lying on the floor unprotected. A few wraps of electrical tape or some wire nuts avoids the possibility of expensive accidents.

 

[Ex-Calif]

It's just smart practice. A few months from now somebody might plug the trailer in, forgetting that the battery cables are lying on the floor unprotected. A few wraps of electrical tape or some wire nuts avoids the possibility of expensive accidents.

Good point. Also good practice to check the e-Bay and battery bay before plugging a trailer in for loose and non-insulated connections.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Also good practice to check the e-Bay and battery bay before plugging a trailer in for loose and non-insulated connections.

A step that only a few OCD-types are very likely to do. Human nature being what it is, most folks will be sufficiently forgetful, lazy, or distracted by events to skip that wise step. It only took me 60 or so years to figure that out...