steve-n-sueC
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2016
- Posts
- 28
Ok............ Against my,(and everybody else I talked to,) better judgement, I decided to remove the clear body mask from the front of our 08 Winnie Adventurer 38j. It had a couple of visible impacts from road debris, and several places that the adhesive had mold, behind the film. Everything I have read, on several boards, is NOT TO TRY IT, so naturally I figured that I could find an easier way..... Not to be.
The plastic will peel, slowly, until you hit a divot from a stone. If you are pulling the plastic against itself, the way you would remove masking tape, it will "V" out and split away at the divot. I found that if you "stretch" and lift the film, pulling the film in the opposite direction that you are going, and use your other hand to "lift" the film, it will usually work around the divot, without splitting. Each time you have to use a finger nail or plastic scraper, to start an edge, it leaves the adhesive on the bus. The "stretch and lift" technique will leave less of the adhesive behind.
The remaining adhesive can be removed. The best thing that I found is Goof Off citrus adhesive remover. I had no issues with it harming the clear-coat underneath. Spray, let set for about 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temp, lightly respray and use a plastic scraper to work on the adhesive. Home Depot was my supplier for Goof Off and scrapers too.
Now for the bad news. I have about 30 hours into the film removal, adhesive removal, and waxing of the newly uncovered surface.
Am attaching before pics of an area with the mold, and an after pic of the entire nose.
The plastic will peel, slowly, until you hit a divot from a stone. If you are pulling the plastic against itself, the way you would remove masking tape, it will "V" out and split away at the divot. I found that if you "stretch" and lift the film, pulling the film in the opposite direction that you are going, and use your other hand to "lift" the film, it will usually work around the divot, without splitting. Each time you have to use a finger nail or plastic scraper, to start an edge, it leaves the adhesive on the bus. The "stretch and lift" technique will leave less of the adhesive behind.
The remaining adhesive can be removed. The best thing that I found is Goof Off citrus adhesive remover. I had no issues with it harming the clear-coat underneath. Spray, let set for about 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temp, lightly respray and use a plastic scraper to work on the adhesive. Home Depot was my supplier for Goof Off and scrapers too.
Now for the bad news. I have about 30 hours into the film removal, adhesive removal, and waxing of the newly uncovered surface.
Am attaching before pics of an area with the mold, and an after pic of the entire nose.