Brand New and need to understand how to seal a widow Pane into the window frame

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Tiercel

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Jul 20, 2021
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Pennsylvania
This is my 1st post. Thanks to those who run the forum. I have administered a few forums and know the work involved.

I just got our 1st RV this month because the price was too good to keep me from jumping.
It is low mileage and low use but is a 2000 model and has weathering issues. I have watched about 100 Youtube videos in 3 weeks but I cannot find out how to properly seal the window back in the frame.

I assume I need some type of sealant / Calk between the glass and frame. It is a fixed window in the front of the cab-over. I pulled the window frame then pulled the window pane from the frame because it leaked enough that I rebuilt the floor of the cab-over. I cleaned the window, frame, and motorhome siding. I will put butyl tape between the window frame and the exterior wall. The rubber gasket glazing is in bad shape (hard etc and some is missing). The windowpane had some black sticky goo behind it but I don't know what to replace it with. I have some DAP Ultra-Flex that is great stuff but I want to be sure. My understanding is that the rubber glazing has little to do with waterproofing the pane/frame junction.

Thanks for your help.
 

Tiercel

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Jul 20, 2021
Posts
35
Location
Pennsylvania
Thanks so much for taking the time to help. I could not believe the difficulty I had finding this simple piece of info online. I am anxious to get this window in and see if that resolves all water intrusion into the cab-over section. I am pretty sure it was all from a bad window seal between the pane and the frame.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Most any auto parts store will have a glass sealer, and hobby shops too. Probably Walmart, even. Some brands are 3M Window Weld, 3M Auto Glass Urethane, Permetex Windshield & Glass, and Sikaflex P2G (my favorite). A pure silicone sealant will do nicely too, e.g. RTV silicone, Gorilla Clear silicone, etc.. If your local stores don't have one of these, Amazon is a good source.
 

Tiercel

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Jul 20, 2021
Posts
35
Location
Pennsylvania
Maybe I am making this too difficult. I sometimes tend toward the obsessive, But I would not be happy if I install this front window pane, rubber glazing seal, then mount the frame with butyl tape only to have to pull it again.

Several auto stores had the 3M Window Weld fast urethane, but the directions said to use 3M one-step primer. Youtube videos all showed the primer being used. No one in town carries that. I looked online and read it only has a 2-week self-life after opening.

The Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone says it is runny to get drawn into leaks. It looks like a good product, so I bought some to keep on the RV, but it seems less than ideal for removing, cleaning, and resetting an entire large window.

I guess I will order the Sikaflex P2G and a heavy-duty calk gun capable of dispensing it. Hopefully, it is not so thick that it is difficult to properly seat the widow and get the glazing in.

BTW, my BiL stopped by today with 80 feet of rubber gazing for all the fixed windows, including the fixed side of sliding windows. He said he bought it several years back when the RV place told him they don't use it anymore. I have no clue how they stopped using rubber glazing. I know of no substitute.

I now will have to wait a week for my Sikaflex P2G to get here.
 

Tiercel

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Jul 20, 2021
Posts
35
Location
Pennsylvania
Gary RV_Wizard,

I finally got my SikaFlex P2G. It has no instructions on the canister. It also specifies "primerless to glass" I saw something that suggests contact with metal should be primed so do I need to prime the inside of the window frame. I do not want a leak in my renovated overhang.

Also, I planned to put butyl tape between the metal window frame and hard fiberglass front of the overhang. Would you do that or would you use the Sikaflex between the metal frame and fiberglass? Again, what about primer?
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Feb 2, 2005
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At our Silver Springs FL home
I've never used a primer with P2G. Just remove any corrosion and clean the surfaces well with acetone or lacquer thinner or similar residue-free solvent. The "Application" topic on the P2G web page describes how to apply it.

I'd use the butyl in case you ever have to pull the frame again. The Sikaflex is hard to break loose once it sets up.
 

Mark_K5LXP

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Nov 17, 2018
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Albuquerque, NM
Don't overthink it, wondering what materials and techniques the original builder used because frankly they usually suck. You wouldn't be in this situation if their solution was any good. Just reading through this thread I can't help but think you're putting more thought and effort into this installation than the original builder did and any number of these solutions will be better than what was there. Odds are excellent whatever you do will be the last time you will ever have to mess with it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 

Tiercel

Active member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Posts
35
Location
Pennsylvania
Mark, You made me laugh at myself because I know I can be obsessive. I have spent my life learning to say "good enough," but it is still takes reminding, so I appreciate the reminder.
 
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