Other than weight, I don't see why a butcher block counter top would not hold up fairly well. Will you be making your own or will you be ordering one from somewhere else. If making your own, if you could find a solid piece of lumber, it would be better. But finding one "that" wide will be a challenge.
Just a suggestion? Resin? I recently built a kitchen cabinet in our house and I used this stuff:
Click here.
The counter top had a sheet of 1/2 inch sheet of plywood. On top of that was a layer of glue. On top of that was vinyl floor tiles. On top of that was 3 coats of the Farmowood Glaze Clear Coat. Each "coat" took one of the large kits at $100 each. I didn't expect it to take 3 coats, but it did.
The first round of liquid will seep into every crack and crevasse and drip down. I was in good shape, because I sealed the under side with all that glue initially. Otherwise, it would have dripped through and made a mess inside the cabinet.
This left dimples everywhere. It looked really bad when it dried. The second coat fill in all the dimples and it smoothed out, very impressive. It still had some imperfections and small dimples and I probably could have left it that way. But I wanted "perfection" and thus the third layer. The third layer ended fantastic, everything I was hoping for.
About discoloring, no. It did not discolor anything. In fact, it brought out color. I would have never imagined how nice those floor tiles looked under the resin. Looking at it now, no one can tell that's floor tile and not real wood.
By the way, before doing this, watch lots of YouTube videos, step-by-step on how to do this. A torch or a really, really hot hand held hair dryer is absolutely necessary to get the air bubbles out. (I used both and found the torch works better, but definitely more dangerous). It's an amazing process to do and see it happen. Keep the torch about 5 inches above the liquid wet resin and watch the bubbles disappear. It's amazing, but a necessary step.
Now, about those scratches. The repair is easy, very easy.... clean off the surface real well, and simply pour a new, very thin coat of resin right on top of it. All the scratches simply disappear.
Before the resin:
After the resin:
If you notice in the "after" shot, I'd built a "lip" on the edge, all the way around so the liquid would not spill over the edges. The intent was pour enough onto the top to fill it up completely level to the edge. To do so, probably would have taken another 3 kits. So, there is now a small "lip" on the edge, which actually allows for more additional layers in the future, and also provides an edge so things don't slip off the side.
Here's a link to some YouTube videos.
Click here.
Watch as many as you can. Once you start the process, you cannot not stop. You have to know what you are doing before you start and have everything ready. You have only about 10 minutes of working time after the epoxy is mixed. There's no time to go back and watch another YouTube video to figure out what you need to do if something isn't quite right.
Good luck. (sorry for the long post). But hope this helps.
