ClassC over cab crack?or just seam

[Allez]

http://imgur.com/xea3GSp
http://imgur.com/1wnL5Et

This is over the driver side- where the cab curves. Roof was just maintenances 6 months ago.
3 months ago- did not seem like there was issues.

Leak started in over cab during rain 3 days ago-we hurried up and just laid eternabond tape til the rain stopped.

Is it common for the fiberglass seams not to be sealed like the roof?

 

[Allez]

How do you know when to replace the stripping that is pictured?!

 

[donn]

Very common for class C leaks in the overhead.  This is a known weak spot with Cs.  If you open things up you will probably find broken structure.

 

[TheBar]

Looks like you'll have to open her up to see what you have going on in there. Most likely due to water damage that has been leaking for a long time. Below is a link to a Class C cabover rebuild considered to be one of the best. Note he had to redo it because he didn't get it properly sealed the first time.

I put Eternabond completely around my curved overhead bunk as shown below. Eternabond will stretch around curves if you use narrow strips. From the ground it looks factory applied. I believe in fixing things for 30 years instead of 5.

http://www.theozarker.com/p/pumpkin-patch-part.html

 

[Allez]

Looks like you'll have to open her up to see what you have going on in there. Most likely due to water damage that has been leaking for a long time. Below is a link to a Class C cabover rebuild considered to be one of the best. Note he had to redo it because he didn't get it properly sealed the first time.

I put Eternabond completely around my curved overhead bunk as shown below. Eternabond will stretch around curves if you use narrow strips. From the ground it looks factory applied. I believe in fixing things for 30 years instead of 5.

http://www.theozarker.com/p/pumpkin-patch-part.html

I was hoping you?d say the opposite... this is a 2 year old rig - and I?ve been up keeping on the roof sealing. But was unaware of needing to seal this part of the roof as no videos or websites mention the sides/curve of the cab.

Everyone just mentions the roof seams/were they meet the fiberglass... not the fiberglass itself.

We are not going to be home til August...sealing this with Dicor should work for now?

I also noticed a tiny crack in the fiberglass right where the tiny lights on the front of the cab come out... is this a easy fix or something a RV service needs to access?

 

[Allez]

Guess I should?ve found this video..https://youtu.be/pVS0zkWcQEo

 

[TheBar]

The crack around the clearance light will let in water so it needs to be sealed. A good epoxy should seal if it is still "tiny". You need to try to get that sealed up ASAP before the next rain. If you are away from home just caulking the edges might keep out the water. Remember any additional caulking will eventually have to be removed if you want it to look good. Dicor makes good products but there are other good caulks like Geocel Proflex Clear which isn't as noticeable. Remember anywhere you see plastic or metal trim will eventually leak. I used over 100 feet of Eternabond on my now 22 year old Class C but if yours is only 2 years old I would not recommend using Eternabond anywhere it is visible. IMHO it should increase the resale value but most people, especially dealers want everything to be factory applied. The tape I put on was all on a straight line draw with a straightedge and pencil before being stuck down and I cut the tape to 1" widths around curves so it didn't "pucker". It looks "factory" but isn't factory. Experienced people would know the difference.

 

[Allez]

The crack around the clearance light will let in water so it needs to be sealed. A good epoxy should seal if it is still "tiny". You need to try to get that sealed up ASAP before the next rain. If you are away from home just caulking the edges might keep out the water. Remember any additional caulking will eventually have to be removed if you want it to look good. Dicor makes good products but there are other good caulks like Geocel Proflex Clear which isn't as noticeable. Remember anywhere you see plastic or metal trim will eventually leak. I used over 100 feet of Eternabond on my now 22 year old Class C but if yours is only 2 years old I would not recommend using Eternabond anywhere it is visible. IMHO it should increase the resale value but most people, especially dealers want everything to be factory applied. The tape I put on was all on a straight line draw with a straightedge and pencil before being stuck down and I cut the tape to 1" widths around curves so it didn't "pucker". It looks "factory" but isn't factory. Experienced people would know the difference.

Thank you! I purchased a seam seal kit (from Dicor) - going to redo my seams. I placed a crap ton of Dicor  sealant up there for now- as it is raining- go figure! But so far not seeing a leak...

 

[blw2]

My corner trim had some areas that looked just like that a few years ago.... not long out of warranty.  In my case, it was the nosecone skin too short at the corner trim.  There was basically no sealing surface overlap for a long length of the trim...A sad manufacturing defect. 

 

[Allez]

My corner trim had some areas that looked just like that a few years ago.... not long out of warranty.  In my case, it was the nosecone skin too short at the corner trim.  There was basically no sealing surface overlap for a long length of the trim...A sad manufacturing defect.

Yeah- it?s what I?m thinking is wrong. I saw you got flexarmor roof placed on your rig? how do you like it? I?m thinking of getting it myself... just trying to figure out if it?s worth it.. hoping to keep this rig for at least 10 years... and with my husband always working/no interest in the upkeep of the RV(I?m doing all the roof caulking/cleaning of the RV- but letting the RV service team take care of the oil changes/tire rotation/balance/lp gas/furnace)

 

[blw2]

The rvroof.com product?... I love it!

Is it worth it?...I'd say that really depends.  It really should normally only be needed in cases where you'd be replacing the membrane anyway. Price is in line with that too.

I felt like my situation was a special case though.  I could justify it because I needed a way to seal up the edges... and strengthen them.

So they agreed to spray the roof, then extend a band overlapping the insert trim all the way down around the nose.  It looks goofy but I love it.  The owner said he'd never do it again unfortunately.  Says it's hard to spray on the vertical and on the underside.  I gathered though that it had as much or maybe more to do with the fact that their shop is set up with the hoses suspended from above and they had to take them down and reconfigure.

Anyway, I optioned to spray over the shower skylight.  Blocks the shower light but also blocks the UV and the heat..and makes the dome strong.  I'm no longer concerned about things like hail, falling branches, etc... and adds structural integrity.

It makes the rig much quieter on the road and that makes DW happy.  Quieter when rain is hitting the roof, and I think it adds some insulating value as well

There's the obvious benefit of no caulk to maintain...well until I installed the solar panel recently.  They'll spray the solar brackets for me for a fee, but at this point I'm not excited about having to schedule it, drop it off and arrange for a ride home...then a ride back to get it....  I put the brackets on with double stick eternabond.  Sealed the screws with a bead of the double stick which encapsulates the screw heads, and then covered the screws with an added layer of eternabond web seal....then a layer of Dicor really just as a UV/weather cover.  I'm not very concerned about leaks.

It's not completely maintenance free though.  It's painted over as a UV shield, and that will have to be redone eventually.  Probably at least touched up in the next couple of years in my case.

 

[TheBar]

I looked at roof coatings and went with Liquid Roof 5 years ago. My roof was not leaking but it provides a 2nd layer of protection and I never wanted to recoat again. If you don't have an EDPM roof it may not work for you. Here was my reasoning:

Pros:
1. It is easy to apply yourself with just a roller on a stick.
2. It is guaranteed for 10 years and can last as long as 30 years.
3. It is actually EDPM rubber so when it dries it is like replacing the membrane.
4. No recoating for at least 20 years. It also seals all the edges and seams so no caulking for 20 years.
5. Less than $400 to coat my 30' Class C. There are many cheaper coatings but over a period of 20 years it works out cheaper and a heck of a lot less labor. And out of a 5 gallon can I had at least 1 1/2 gallons left.
6. I had some bubbles a few inches long where the original EDPM was not properly glued. It soaked through and glued these bubbles back down so they disappeared.
7. It has good reviews on forums and has been in use for a long time.

Cons:
1. Stains much quicker from wet leaves so some reflectivity may make the roof warmer. There is now 2 layers of rubber and may increase the R value making up the difference.
2. Wrinkles when drying which looks terrible but after a month the wrinkles disappeared as the instructions daod they would.
3. Wear gloves and old clothes because it doesn't come off even with acetone.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Roof-Repair-EPDM-Coatings/product-reviews/B01MRYN18E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_hist_1?filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

 

[RVRAC]

"..this is a 2 year old rig -"

Are you sure? This looks like too much damage for a two year old unit.

 

[Allez]

Finally had a chance to get to rip the weather stripping off/get further into it...(suppose to be 7 days of sun!!! Finally!!!)

I?m have a call out to the manufacturer- cuz I?m 100% sure this is not right..

http://imgur.com/Ca9u4ql
http://imgur.com/COxylut
http://imgur.com/XvMdHVB

 

[Allez]

Pretty sure it is what blw2 said is what happened to his... shitty manufacturing job

 

[RVRAC]

I would use Eternabond if it was mine.

 

[Allez]

Well- I laid down 4? eternabond over it (it covers the gaps and gives a good 3 cm over each side)
I laid down very thick layer of sealant in the metal frame prior to screwing back in (just was very hard/not being able to see the previous holes cuz of the eternabond) so sealant came squishing our the sides/used soapy water to lay it all flat/seal it.

I just didn?t think the gap being open like that was good for structural stability...