OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
I misused the term "cupping", the wear was on outer edge of the tires (outside tread).
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
OK, so no cupping. But insufficient air pressure in the tire should cause wear on both edges, not just the outer.
Check that Goodyear inflation table, but you must be armed with the actual scaled weight of each axle on the RV, in order to find the right pressure. Until you know the scaled weight, use the GAWR for the axle, which means you are assuming it is loaded to the max. That's probably more than what is really required, but it is safe.
Check that Goodyear inflation table, but you must be armed with the actual scaled weight of each axle on the RV, in order to find the right pressure. Until you know the scaled weight, use the GAWR for the axle, which means you are assuming it is loaded to the max. That's probably more than what is really required, but it is safe.
Wear patterns like that are called chamfer wear and are not uncommon on the Goodyear G670RV tires on a steer axle. It's a cosmetic wear pattern and not a safety issue. Inflating 5-10psi above the chart pressure usually stops the wear.
OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
Gary, I didn't make myself clear. It is wear on both outer edges of each tire.
I do have the actual weights of the front and rear axles and the Toad as normally loaded for a trip. I divided the Axle weight by two for the front axle and added two hundred pounds for the probability of an unbalanced load. I divided the rear axle weight by four and added one hundred pounds for the same reason.
I have printed the Goodyear tire weight charts that Ned pointed me too and shall go over tomorrow and compare them to those in my OM for the MH.
Thanks for all the help guys and I shall let you know how the charts compare.
I do have the actual weights of the front and rear axles and the Toad as normally loaded for a trip. I divided the Axle weight by two for the front axle and added two hundred pounds for the probability of an unbalanced load. I divided the rear axle weight by four and added one hundred pounds for the same reason.
I have printed the Goodyear tire weight charts that Ned pointed me too and shall go over tomorrow and compare them to those in my OM for the MH.
Thanks for all the help guys and I shall let you know how the charts compare.
Alfa38User
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Posts
- 6,678
I suspect any charts found in the Owners Manuals would relate to the original tires on the motorhome. They may not be the same brand or exact size of the tires on there today. These charts must either account for a minimum weight or a maximum weight, not the actual weight you happen to be at during your travels. Therefore, you are likely to find there are some differences....
faithwalker303
Member
Gotta Love this site.... Hubby and I have learned soooooo much about Our MH Last trip out our sensors showed it was full after only 2 days. NO WAY!!! Dumped and not alot of "stuff"
And the sensors still show full so now we know what to do!!!!
Thank You Everyone
OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
I checked the on-line Goodyear Tire Inflation Chart to the tire inflation chart in the OM for the MH and they are exactly the same, kudos to Monaco.
Got out my last and only Weighing Receipt and much to my surprise I have been running the tires at 10lbs below the recommended pressure. Don't know how or why I misread the chart but I did. Have been running that way for the last three years.
Shall adjust to the recommended pressures plus two pounds before the next trip.
Since I do not have a four point weighing how much should I add for the probability of unbalanced loads?? I added 400lbs (pure guess) to the the axle weights before dividing by two and four.
Got out my last and only Weighing Receipt and much to my surprise I have been running the tires at 10lbs below the recommended pressure. Don't know how or why I misread the chart but I did. Have been running that way for the last three years.
Shall adjust to the recommended pressures plus two pounds before the next trip.
Since I do not have a four point weighing how much should I add for the probability of unbalanced loads?? I added 400lbs (pure guess) to the the axle weights before dividing by two and four.
Pfun 1
Well-known member
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-clean-out-your-sewage-ejector-pump
sounds like lemon juice might work
sounds like lemon juice might work
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
My strategy is to divide by 2 (or 4 for the duals) and then add 500 lbs to allow for possible imbalance. I've heard of axles that were off more than 500lbs side-toside, but not often. And then I usually go to the next higher entry in the pressure tables as well, unless the weight was at the very bottom of the range to begin with.
The net effect is that I may be running as much a 10 psi more than the minimum needed for the load, but that's not a problem and far, far better than even 2 psi low.
OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
Thks Gary, will go with the 500lbs adder after dividing.
Kreuzfahrt, seems that the Citric Acid might kill the bacterial action desired in the Black Tank. Your thoughts.
Kreuzfahrt, seems that the Citric Acid might kill the bacterial action desired in the Black Tank. Your thoughts.
BernieD
Well-known member
Gary RV Roamer said:
A 500# add on would provide for a 1,000# differential side to side. For example, you can have one corner weigh 10,250#s and the other corner weight 9,750#s, a difference of 500#s but only 250#s above the total weight of 10,000#s. 1,000#s might not be bad, I have a 750# differential on my front axle.
Pfun 1
Well-known member
I think of the black tank is more a temporary storage area rather than aseptic tank.Probably should follow up with a block of yeast after flushing out the lemon juice.
OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
Back to the Black Tank Cleaning. As reported earlier the Riddex did help my problem as it turned off the 2/3rds and full lites. I decided after flushing to refill the Tank and add more Riddex. It has been sitting for about 2 weeks.
Good news, when I disconnected my Sanicon today in preparation for our trip to the Maggie Valley area, a large amount of flakes and scales dumped out of the connecting pipe. Obviously it was the sludge coating on the BT walls. The BT is now full and I will leave it full until I arrive at the CG, hopefully I will get more cleaning action.
I think I now know what I have been doing wrong. I always backflush the BT until it runs clear and then empty the BT completely before storing. That would explain the flakes as the sludge drys and hardens (I store for several months at a time). I suppose it kills the bacterial action as well. In the future I will put 10 gallons of water in the tank with some Riddex before storing after the cleaning.
Good news, when I disconnected my Sanicon today in preparation for our trip to the Maggie Valley area, a large amount of flakes and scales dumped out of the connecting pipe. Obviously it was the sludge coating on the BT walls. The BT is now full and I will leave it full until I arrive at the CG, hopefully I will get more cleaning action.
I think I now know what I have been doing wrong. I always backflush the BT until it runs clear and then empty the BT completely before storing. That would explain the flakes as the sludge drys and hardens (I store for several months at a time). I suppose it kills the bacterial action as well. In the future I will put 10 gallons of water in the tank with some Riddex before storing after the cleaning.
OP
OP
Weewun
Guest
One last input on this topic. Arrived at the CG (approx 300 miles) and dumped the Black Tank. All lites went out, I am thrilled and am now a believer in Riddex treatment.
Scott-0168
Well-known member
Dawn liquid dish soap works just as well!
Scott
Scott
Yaksailor
Active member
R1Kirby said:
I've tried everything with my black tank, usually can fix it with different remedies but after awhile it gets slimed again and I'm back to where I started from. My question is are these probes easy enough to replace myself or should a technician do this. Probably need to crawl under and check their location would be my first start...Costs of these probes?
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
If you can access the area where the probes are, replacement should not be difficult with either the Horst probes or the external SeeLevel gauges.
A set of probes for two tanks runs around $65. See Horst Probe pricing here:
http://www.rvprobes.com/buyprobes.html
SeeLevel sending units alone are priced similar to the Horst Probes, but you need a SeeLevel display panel to go with them. That puts the whole package into the $250 arena.
A set of probes for two tanks runs around $65. See Horst Probe pricing here:
http://www.rvprobes.com/buyprobes.html
SeeLevel sending units alone are priced similar to the Horst Probes, but you need a SeeLevel display panel to go with them. That puts the whole package into the $250 arena.
Lindsay Richards
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2008
- Posts
- 154
We dump the ice from our house into the toilet JUST before we leave. We put about 1/3 water into the tank first. Don't know how long until the ice melts, but it seems to do the trick. The ice picks up a bad taste if left in the fridge for a month or so. We usually end of throwing out the new ice it makes when we get back.
