Considering this "solar" inverter.

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Just put plugs on the ends of the circuits you want to hook up and plug them into the outlets provided. If you want to connect only one larger load, put two plugs in parallel on a single circuit so that neither plug has to carry the full amp load. Remember that 3 outlets doesn't mean you have 3 x 15A available. 2000W is still 2000W, no matter how it is spread around.  16A-17A is all you get, except for briefly higher (peak) loading.

I would bet that it is one circuit powering three outlets. Neither the package size nor the price nor the power output is enough to indicate three separate inverters in one box.

 

[supermanotorious]

I would just as soon, hardwire that one circuit rather than run the receptacles in parallel.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Understand, but modifying it will surely invalidate the warranty.

 

[supermanotorious]

understood, but that's if they can even tell I opened it!

 

[tvman44]

As mentioned 700 watts is the output power and the input power could be almost double that and the start up surge even higher.  Definitely need a much larger inverter.

 

[supermanotorious]

I was looking at the inverter on Amazon the other day and saw they had 2 left, I pulled the trigger, should be delivered today, and today Amazon is out of stock!

 

[supermanotorious]

it sure showed up around 6pm! so I cracked in to it, a square, rubber "shock absorber" was loose and bouncing around in it, at first I couldn't tell where it came from but then I noticed one between the circuit board and the casing, so I slid it there on the opposite side. the board output is only hot and neutral and is disbursed among the 3 receptacles by another circuit board, i'm on the fence: should I just take some 10ga romex, terminate with a male plug, plug in to the inverter and hard wire to the coach, or would I get a better connection but cutting the output from the receptacle board and hard wire to the coach?

 

[kdbgoat]

I can't answer your question, but it appears this unit doesn't provide a ground. At least I don't see anything on the spot labeled ground on the board. Am I missing something here?

 

[supermanotorious]

You've got to provide the ground by attaching to the external bolt, that is connected to the yellow/green wire

 

[supermanotorious]

I'm taking the inverter for a "test drive" right now. I have it connected to my 12V Interstate deep cycle battery, I used the supplied cables for this simple test, they are close to 8ga but they are doubled up (4ga simulated?) and only about 24" long. I plugged in a TV/DVD combo and started a movie, plugged in the coffee maker and ran a pot, after about 20 min the cooling fan came on. I'm pretty pleased, esp with the fact there is a thermostat on the cooling fan- unlike the AIMS unit

 

[supermanotorious]

Just put plugs on the ends of the circuits you want to hook up and plug them into the outlets provided. If you want to connect only one larger load, put two plugs in parallel on a single circuit so that neither plug has to carry the full amp load. Remember that 3 outlets doesn't mean you have 3 x 15A available. 2000W is still 2000W, no matter how it is spread around.  16A-17A is all you get, except for briefly higher (peak) loading.

I would bet that it is one circuit powering three outlets. Neither the package size nor the price nor the power output is enough to indicate three separate inverters in one box.

Gary, what are your thoughts on this from a review on Amazon? I don't think he's getting higher amperage this way, but distributing the load like you mentioned, which I believe would be moot by bypassing the receptacles and hard wiring to the 2 leads on the circuit board.

" I have it rigged for all 120V outlets in the 5th wheel (use several 15 amp plugs in parallel to handle the watts, and 30A 3 pole toggle to disconnect the battery charger while using it). "

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Assuming the inverter is rated above 15A total (1800 watts), he gets more amps and more watts by paralleling multiple plugs. He can get as much as the inverter is capable of.

 

[legrandnormand]

... and for all of these long writings, the guy ends up with a big 1800 WATTS !


So what is the interest of only having 1800 WATTS to serve your needs in a rv ? Get a GEN and enjoy your rv !

 

[supermanotorious]

Well it's been just over 2 years since this inverter was installed. It is currently unavailable on Amazon but may be available elsewhere so I wanted to give an update. Recently, perhaps in the last 2 months I decided to leave the inverter ON to see how my batteries and panels would handle storage with some current draw. Last night I walked by the RV and could tell the inverter cooling fan was a little louder than normal. As I looked only 1 of 2 fans was spinning and sounds like the bearings are soon to go. Otherwise this has been a good, reliable inverter, especially for the price. I will look in to replacement fans and feel confident doing the work myself.

 

[Frank B]

... and for all of these long writings, the guy ends up with a big 1800 WATTS !


So what is the interest of only having 1800 WATTS to serve your needs in a rv ? Get a GEN and enjoy your rv !

When boondocking, we prefer the quiet. Don't like to bother the neighbors either.

 

[Frank B]

The AIMS is working fine for me, but the power load is small (only a couple hundred watts).

A "rule of thumb" is that a typical microwave draws about 2x it's output wattage rating.

Yes, those 4 batteries ought to be sufficient to provide 1000-1200 watts for at least a few minutes, but a big draw will knock down the voltage surprisingly quickly. So will less than ideal wire size or a poor quality connection (as others have already commented).

Agreed. There must be something else amiss here. We ran a 700 watt microwave off a 1000 watt inverter, but using 6 x 6 volt batteries. The inverter was mounted in the battery compartment, and wired with a 10 inch length of number 2 wire.


Using a similar 6 battery setup, our 2500 watt sunforce inverter will actually run our 1350 watt Coleman air conditioner equipped with the easystart electronic soft start kit. I don't know how long it will run the air conditioner, as I have never tested that, but it does work.

 

[Frank B]

thanks for the update, here is the thread where I will track project progress

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,96811.0/topicseen.html

That is already a very long thread. Have you considered starting another thread for the new project?  It might make it easier for your audience.


I assume that you will be reinstalling the solar this time as well? I would love to see more information on that when you get to that point.

 

[John From Detroit]

Tested (Sort of) My new 2,000 watt Xantrex yesterday.. Set it in UPS mode and every thing it powers did not "Blink" Microwave still shows time. Digital TV converter still on (one of 'em defaults to ON and the other to OFF at power up.. TV did not blink.. Had major 120v Issues when I pulled in.. Diagnosed (one bad outlet on my 30 amp cord plus one bad Dogbone when using the 50) Went to Meijer's (Nearest super store) they had nothing (Wal*Mart, thier competitor, has 'em) on a huntch I headed across the intersection to Lumber Jack.. Yes a Lumber yard.  Kid told Me Isle 14.. I told him That was the wrong isle but Isle 17 (Auto Accessories)  Layed two adapters on the counter and said "Exactly what I was looking for"  Not just the very adapter I wanted but the Brand and type (Camco Power Pull) I wanted.. NICE.. Works too.  But long day.  I"m still re-hydrating.

 

[supermanotorious]

I opened the inverter and pulling the fans was extremely easy. Using the caliper I found them to be 12V 60mm x 60mm x 25mm and found them right away on Amazon.

 

[supermanotorious]

I'm considering adding a 50 Farad capacitor to my system. I'd like the remote wire to come in from the inverter, from a circuit that comes on only when the inverter is turned on. Off hand, is anyone aware of a 12V circuit in the inverter that comes on when the inverter is turned on (for example LED light, but those are probably less than 12V)? We know the battery leads have constant 12V of course. And crudely I could use a 12V relay with a 120V coil but I'd like to not have to use a relay.