Custom Build 20' Toy Hauler

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Joined
Mar 23, 2021
Posts
13
Location
Alabama
Working on converting 20' cargo trailer into a toy hauler camper. I have everything stripped out, installed the windows; working on the insulation, mattress arrived today and I am starting work to build the wall cabinet to hold the bed on the wall. Coming soon, the shower, toilet, kitchen layout, AC Unit and storage.
 

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I'll be interested to see what you do. A few years ago, before I bought my current camper trailer, I turned my cargo trailer into a multi use unit. I have a 6x12 v nose cargo trailer that I use for my ATV. I added three windows, two skylights, an AC system, a DC system, welded a rack on the front for propane and battery, a camper step, a TV on a wall mount, and some folding shelves. That's just the abbreviated list of work done. Because I have limited space in there and I still need to use it for my ATV everything I do on the inside has to be packable. I bought a bunk bed disc-o-bed cot for sleeping, a two person tube chair couch, a portable AC that I vent out a window, an electric radiator heater and a propane buddy heater depending on need, and finally a small fridge that's enough for a few food essentials. Everything that I have to set up I can store in the V section and then park the ATV inside. Having to set everything up might not be ideal for everyone, but for my occasional needs(mainly hunting in the boonies, or offroading somewhere) it works out, and my wife and I even took a trip without the ATV and just left everything set up in place and it worked out great. The one thing I still want to do is add some sort of awning on the side, I'm thinking of a bag awning off a popup camper.
 

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This definitely is not going to break speed records, or get built in 4 weeks like some I have seen on YouTube, but every week is a step closer. I did the floor epoxy and I have the refrigerator, sink and some cabinets ready along with some countertops; WH, Range, Toilet and shower stall are the last purchases before I start laying everything out to make sure the tanks and appliances can be connected with no issues. In the mean time I am insulating the ceiling, putting in 4 LED lights and painting cool roof foam on the trailer to help with the southern summer heat.

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A little more work; wireless backup camera successfully installed, refrigerator and sink in place to start measuring for cabinets, I may even get the cool roof painted on and the bedframe built this week.

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I like the decals, makes it look less like a utility trailer. Did your trailer come with them, or did you put them on?

I am looking to paint the exterior of my TT and don't want it to look plain or like a utility trailer
 
I like the decals, makes it look less like a utility trailer. Did your trailer come with them, or did you put them on?

I am looking to paint the exterior of my TT and don't want it to look plain or like a utility trailer
The decals are aftermarket ordered from Amazon that I added to the trailer, Windows were Lowes Mobile home windows. I am painting the roof of the trailer this week with white cool roof foam to help insulate from summer heat.
 
Progress; picked up toilet, power inverter and distribution center, Murphy bed hardware and a few other item to get work moving again. I finally settled on the Yamaha Rhino 660 and taped off the floor space needed for hauling the UTV so I do not build anything into the cargo space for the side by side.
 
too late to help you, but my advice, having done this, is to double insulate. You have 1x1 steel square tubing that will touch the exterior aluminum siding and the 1x1 then will transfer heat/cold to the interior wall. Not a big deal in moderate temps but on hot or cold days this will heat or cool the inside. It really does make a difference over time, and you have to heat/cool extra if using HVAC to overcome this.

I used a 2x12 and ripped it down to 1 inch (by 1 3/4 (2 inch)) and attached the 1 inch strip to the ceiling to give an additional inch space to fill with the 1 inch foam board insulation.
This wood piece breaks the thermal connection and give a wooden frame to attach the ceiling panels to. I used 4 across left to right on the ceiling.
I did not do the walls this way, but wish I did.

I did double insulate the rear door with a "temporary" fix, which I have left permanent until I need to load something in that cant go thru side door. It made a huge difference as the rear door uses 1x1 aluminum framing and aluminum siding inside and out. Lots of heat used to get across, now nothing does.
The foam board on the inside is just held in place, so works perfect, but can bet removed quick and the door opened. Point being the rear door no longer is 5-10 degrees hotter than the inside, so no heat transfer
 
I admire your design, but one question you use square tube as frame when you drag, have you considered the effect of lateral sway on your moving cabin?
 
I admire your design, but one question you use square tube as frame when you drag, have you considered the effect of lateral sway on your moving cabin?
Poster hasnt poster since Oct 31 2022 on this post maybe send them a private message as they may not check this post
 
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