Distribution Center Fuse Panel

[mirada145]

Hello,

I have a damaged fuse panel on my 2000 Mirada. I'll need a replacement panel but can't seem to find any available that specifically match mine (any help there would be appreciated). I did find a fuse panel online that seems like it will work, but not sure if it has to match the original exactly.

Pic of broken fuse panel is attached, and a link to the alternative in question is below.

https://www.familyrvstore.com/wfco-arterra-89354555-pcb-fuse-block

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

That's getting kinda long in the tooth, the power center OEM may not be around or it's obsolete. Another option would be to R&R the whole power center box with something more contemporary. If you're running the original converter then this kind of update might check a few boxes.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Rene T]

Is it still working safely. If you are unsure, get a electrician to look at it and see what they say.
Looking at the picture, it doesn’t look like it’s damaged too bad.

 

[mirada145]

That's a good idea. Thanks

 

[mirada145]

Is it still working safely. If you are unsure, get a electrician to look at it and see what they say.
Looking at the picture, it doesn’t look like it’s damaged too bad.

Everything seems to be working fine. The positive and negative connections both are broken off of the panel, however they are still attached to the connectors that were on the panel before it broke.

 

[Onyrlef]

Hello,

I have a damaged fuse panel on my 2000 Mirada. I'll need a replacement panel but can't seem to find any available that specifically match mine (any help there would be appreciated). I did find a fuse panel online that seems like it will work, but not sure if it has to match the original exactly.

Pic of broken fuse panel is attached, and a link to the alternative in question is below.

https://www.familyrvstore.com/wfco-arterra-89354555-pcb-fuse-block

I'm not even going to ask.

 

[mirada145]

I'm not even going to ask.

I had a blowout on a rear tire and it ripped the main positive electric wire that ran on the chassis from the coach battery to the fuse panel. When it ripped I guess it pulled the mounted positive wire bracket and caused this damage

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

To find a replacement you need to identify the make/model of the power center (converter) that contains that board, but the chances of finding just that component are slim unless you can pick up a used one somewhere. More likely you would have to replace the whole unit (if it is still made). Some older converter/charger power centers have newer ones designed to be an easy replacement.

Yes, you can find 12v fuse blocks from various sources and some of them will probably fit in the available space. With a little creativity it could probably be mounted. Marine electronics manufacturers such as Blue Sea offer a variety. Digikey.com is another likely retail source.

 

[Tulecreeper]

To find a replacement you need to identify the make/model of the power center (converter) that contains that board, but the chances of finding just that component are slim unless you can pick up a used one somewhere. More likely you would have to replace the whole unit (if it is still made). Some older converter/charger power centers have newer ones designed to be an easy replacement.

Yes, you can find 12v fuse blocks from various sources and some of them will probably fit in the available space. With a little creativity it could probably be mounted. Marine electronics manufacturers such as Blue Sea offer a variety. Digikey.com is another likely retail source.

^^^ I agree with Gary. ^^^

All you need to do is find a 12v fuse block with at least the same number of slots as this one that fits in the space the old one is in. After that, it's just a matter of wiring all fuses to the same circuits. Pretty straight forward as long as you take your time.

 

[Onyrlef]

Everything seems to be working fine. The positive and negative connections both are broken off of the panel, however they are still attached to the connectors that were on the panel before it broke.

I'd secure the broken terminals and let it ride, don't fix what ain't broke.

 

[mirada145]

Thank you all for the input!

 

[CharlesinGA]

The Power Center is a Parallax (or predecessor) unit. Its metal, has a cover than is piano hinged to fold downward, and painted brown.

I'm going to make an expensive suggestion first. You probably have an old single stage power converter. If you buy a Progressive Dynamics 4600 series replacement, you get a new 4 stage converter that is kind to your batteries and comes in a new metal box ready to install in the place of the old one. It also comes kitted with a new fuse panel that will replace your broken one. Buy a converter and get a new fuse panel

Progressive 4600 converter kits

DO NOT GET THE FUSE PANEL YOU LINKED TO, IT IS FOR WFCO PANELS AND DOES NOT HAVE THE PROPER MOUNTING HOLES IN IT.

You can probably buy a replacement fuse panel alone from Parallax, or Here is one on Ebay for your panel.

I cannot stress how much your batteries will like the Progressive Dynamics converter, 46XX last two numbers is the amperage of your existing converter, 35/45/55 (most likely 45). The new panel provided by Progressive has blow fuse indicators and also has a button that is wired to the converter to change the modes manually (which I have never needed to do).

I have done this conversion twice, once in my Winnebago View MH, and once in my current Bigfoot travel trailer.

Progressive upgrade kits from Best Converter

Last two pics are of the fuse panel I REMOVED from the power center for the conversion, which I have put away somewhere.

Be very careful when tightening any of the screw terminals, to hold the terminal block with a properly fitting open end wrench or pliers, to prevent twisting of the terminal and ripping it out of the printed circuit it is mounted on.

Charles

 

[CharlesinGA]

I know the fuse panels LOOK different but they are functionally the same, and have the proper grommeted mounting holes. You have a positive from the coach, and a negative from the coach, and a positive from the converter, and a negative from the converter, all go on terminals marked as such. Wires may require some pulling, bending, rerouting, etc to make then land WITHOUT STRAIN on the new terminals, and then the small individual circuit wires.

Make all of your wire connections BEFORE you screw the board in place, this will prevent stressing the terminals and printed circuit board, then mount the board with the two 5/16 hex/slotted screws thru the grommets.

Make sure all shore power is removed as you are dealing with hot wires in the 120v circuit breaker panel when installing the converter power wires.

Charles

 

[John From Detroit]

I agree it's not that bad looking but if you wish to replace. Don't worry about exact size. Worry about "Number of circuits" and then you can craft an adapter to make it fit.
Also consider something with blown fuse indicators (progressive Dynamics) does that. At least some models.

 

[Kirk]

The positive and negative connections both are broken off of the panel, however they are still attached to the connectors that were on the panel before it broke.

I'm not entirely sure that I understand what happened but you need to be sure that those wires do not move around enough to touch anything from vibration of motion and I'd want them well insulated. Just as Gary previously said, we can't be very specific on our advice without knowing the make and model of the distribution panel and associated components. Without that information any specific answers are only guesses. If it were mine I might just replace the fuse panel circuit board, but I have many years of experience as an electrical technician. You would probably be wise to get some on site advice by someone who knows such systems and that might not be true for a construction electrician.

 

[CharlesinGA]

we can't be very specific on our advice without knowing the make and model of the distribution panel

If the OP comes back and gives us a broader pic, you will see that its a Parallax Panel or a Magnetek. Having owned two of them, and spent a lot of time changing out the converters, fuse panels, neatening up the wiring, installing ferrules on the wires, etc., I can tell what it is just from the little bit of it visible in the photo the OP posted. The way that printed circuit board is broken, you don't want to be using it. Something will break or weaken and start arcing.

Charles