DIY generator box for a honda 3000

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Houston Remodeler

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Joined
Dec 25, 2014
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346
Location
Houston
The available factory made aluminum diamond plate boxes run $1200 plus shipping. I'm far too cheap thrifty to buy one. Time for a Macgyver moment.

After reading the specs on the factory model, I went to Home depot and found this tool storage box. Its a little longer, but the genny still fits in.

To attach the box to the truck and prevent / deter theft, I elected to use the hole in the middle of the bed of the truck meant for the 5th wheel attachment. It is a 2 3/8" diameter hole, 4 inches deep, through a heavy steel frame which is bolted to the truck. Strong enough for a 5er, strong enough for this job.
 

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The 2x2 metal frame was removed from the bottom of the generator. This made it low enough to add a 3/4" thick piece of BC plywood bolted into the bottom of the generator using the factory supplied 6 threaded bolt holes.

The plywood has a cut out to accommodate the pan on the bottom of the genny.

A hole was drilled in the center to allow for a 1/2" galvanized carriage bold to be dropped through the plywood. This bolt is what attaches the plywood to the truck frame. The plywood is attached to the genny. The box is sammiched in between.
 

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The genny was set into the box, with the bolt sticking through the hole about one inch.

To get fresh air in, the factory specs a 665 CFM 12v fan. I found one on Ebay for $20. A 9 inch hole was cut in the side of the box. That hole was covered with a roofing vent cover from Home Depot $31.

The gaps were filled with backer rod, and everything was sealed with a silane caulking which is waterproof.
 

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The exhaust is another roof vent from home depot $20

The cord to the trailer was bought from Amazon, $92 which included the inlet box for the trailer. This shouldn't figure into the cost as I would have had to buy them anyway but thought to include them so y'all have an idea of the total cost.

The cord was notched into the side, just below the water tight lid.

8 holes were drilled in the bottom to let any rain water or spilled gasoline or oil escape.
 

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The lid needed to be notched a little to accommodate the gas cap on the genny. I used an inside pipe cutter to remove the box lid ribs.

The bolt sticking through the box feeds into a wooden plug, the width of the hole in the bed of the truck. To keep this plug in place, a 1/2" female union nut was let into the bottom and screwed onto the carriage bolt about half way. The whole thing is tightened to the bottom of the job box, letting the plug and female union nut stick out about 1/2" as the hole in the truck sets about 1/4" below the bed of the truck. This gives me a little room to feel when the plug hits the hole and centers itself.

A 6 inch stainless steel bolt is threaded through a locking washer, a piece of flat steel* with a hole in it, then another 1 1/2 inch wooden plug to center the whole unit from the bottom. The bolt assembly is threaded up through the 5th wheel hole into the female union nut, then tightened with the same impact driver and socket as the stabilizer legs.

The genny is now bolted to the truck, can be used in the rain, and while traveling.

I saved around $1000, and enjoyed the experience.
 

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Thanks !

Yes just unbolt it from the truck as usual and lift it from the job box. We normally set it on a furniture dolly in the garage, so the bottom pin doesn't make a difference if it stays attached to the genny
 
We had a chance to use the genny for an overnight boondocking. It purred along, barely audible, for 17 hours using about half a tank of gas.
 

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