SC5thWheeler
Well-known member
For those who do their own oil changes, what are you using to lift the rear end for access?
DIY oil change on DP
- Thread starter SC5thWheeler
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Ray-IN
Well-known member
Wooden 2"x8" ramps. Mine are 3 layers high, each one 18" shorter than the one under it, the bottom board is 4' long, and each one cut with a 45° angle on the end for less stress on tires.
Then I cut off a 55G plastic drum at 10" high for an oil drain pan, a 55G drum holds 1G per inch of height.
I'd have preferred to use an EZ oil drain valve, but the drain plug in my oil pan is where running over a tree limb in the road could knock the drain valve off. That valve would allow me to fill old gallon milk jugs with used oil instead of having to pull my home-made drain pan out and use a cup to transfer the used oil into the jugs.
Then I cut off a 55G plastic drum at 10" high for an oil drain pan, a 55G drum holds 1G per inch of height.
I'd have preferred to use an EZ oil drain valve, but the drain plug in my oil pan is where running over a tree limb in the road could knock the drain valve off. That valve would allow me to fill old gallon milk jugs with used oil instead of having to pull my home-made drain pan out and use a cup to transfer the used oil into the jugs.
Utclmjmpr
Well-known member
If you intend to DYI,, install a FUMOTO drain valve to simplify the job..>>>Dan
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
Unless it is like Ray's where it hangs straight down. I had a Sprinter chassis MH and the drain plug was on the side of the pan, so I installed a Fumoto drain without any worry of it getting damaged.
The Cummins in my pickup has a plug flush on the bottom of the pan. They do make a flush quick drain, but I suspect it would leave an inch or so of old oil standing in the bottom of the pan, so I just use the standard plug, it has a recessed 3/8 square drive in it.
Charles
SC5thWheeler
Well-known member
I considered making something like this. Do you see any issue with putting just one of the dually tires on the ramps?
I never was able to find heavy duty dual tire plastic ramps online.
I may make some ramps like Ray refers to of his own,but I currently just do it with the coach on the ground. I’m not a huge guy so I can fit under, but it is a little snug, it’s just like my truck,just a lot more oil! I have a 4gl.oil pan that works fairly well.
Scott,Orlando
Scott,Orlando
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I just extended the jacks a bit further if needed, and added a jack stand for "just in case" safety reasons. Could also drive the back wheels up on wood block - most pushers only need a few inches of additional clearance to get at the filter and drain plug. Although I noticed my need for clearance increased as my girth spread.
There was actually adequate room under mine once I got past the edge of the body overhang.
It should be fine with just one whole tire on the planks on each side,but you could consider going with 2x10’s or 12’s ,but they’ll just be significantly heavier and harder to handle. They would have to be solid plastic ramps,otherwise I would imagine they’ll just crush under all the weight.
Scott,Orlando
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Not for a short duration, but it's generally a poor practice. In effect you are making one tire carry the load of two, which really stresses the tire sidewall. It happens occasionally if you drive off-center over a pothole or bump, but that's only a momentary thing. Letting it sit that way for hours or days is not a good thing.
Use a plank at least as wide as the tire tread, so that the load is spread across the whole tire. That typically means a 2x12, which is actually 11.25" wide.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
I use my leveling jacks if necessary, usually it's not.
The jacks are mechanical. I wouldn't trust hydraulics quite as much.
The jacks are mechanical. I wouldn't trust hydraulics quite as much.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,332
Be careful if your coach has air suspension. Several years ago we lost a member who was crushed when his coach's air suspension deflated while he was working under it. I would never trust an inflated air suspension or a retractable jack to hold up any vehicle I was working under.
Kirk
Well-known member
There was a single RVer that we knew who was working under his diesel pusher inside of a closed garage when it lost air somehow. They found him several days later, crushed between the motorhome and his creeper with deflated airbags. The coroner estimated that it had taken him more than 24 hours to die. That happened more than 10 years ago now, but I'll never forget it.
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
That statement can be taken a couple of different ways
Ray-IN
Well-known member
Static load is much different than dynamic load, therefore I just use one ramp under the inside dual, it's a steel rim vs the outer aluminum rim.
I bought a set of plastic 12,000# ramps, but somehow I just cannot trust my life to plastic ramps. I do use them for changing oil on my K1500 pickup and DW's Jeep though.
SRSnure
Member
Gary,I just extended the jacks a bit further if needed, and added a jack stand for "just in case" safety reasons. Could also drive the back wheels up on wood block - most pushers only need a few inches of additional clearance to get at the filter and drain plug. Although I noticed my need for clearance increased as my girth spread.
There was actually adequate room under mine once I got past the edge of the body overhang.
Not to hijack this thread, but my question is related to the OP's question. I have two 22-ton jacks for my 2011 45' American Tradition. However, I'm not sure where to put them to best support the coach. The two chassis rails that extend from the front to the rear are located higher than the jack stands can reach. The jacks have a lifting range from 12-5/8 inches to 20-1/16 inches (CLICK HERE). After inserting the jack stands I'd also like to leave the leveling jacks down for added safety. Where would you recommend I set up the jacks?
SC5thWheeler
Well-known member
What do you use to raise the rear of the coach before putting the stands under it?
SRSnure
Member
I use the leveling jacks to raise the "house", leaving the wheels on the ground.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Under the frame rails, which can mean you need additional blocks under the jack stands or between the jack & the frame. The whole idea is keep the frame from dropping if something vents the air from the suspension while you are underneath.
Examples of what unlikely but still possible happenings include a dog or grandkid in the coach nudges the air dump or emergency brake button, or you accidentally damage an air line or hit the ride height control arm for the rear bags.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
I totally agree Gary; one doesn't get a second chance when 30,000 lbs. drops on them. That's why I made the effort to build my wood ramps, even with air springs deflated I have plenty of room underneath.
It's been about 20 years ago now since an RV tech in N. Indiana was suffocated when the DP he crawled under without support jacks settled enough to trap him and compress his chest. His co-workers found him when he didn't show up for lunch break.
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
It's one of those things that is extremely unlikely to occur but near-always catastrophic if it does.
