dometic fridge, gas, flame lights then check light comes on after 1 or 2 seconds

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helpmedusty

New member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Posts
3
I replaced the igniter
I replaced the re-igniter
I replaced the thermocoupler


This fridge was a rebuild I bought last year that was supposedly just rebuilt before I got it..

I did not have the gas hookup behind the fridge because the trailer had a house fridge in it and they cut the copper out.

I did my work off youtube and went to home depot and bought a flaring kit and some copper tubing and got her all connected. (no leaks)

The first thing I notice when following the service manual was that there was no igniter at all. (kinda aggravated at the company I bought it from for that but it was over a year ago so whatever)

so I decided to replace the igniter, the re-igniter and the thermocoupler all at once.

I started with the igniter and re-igniter, thermocoupler makes no difference.

The control board in this fridge looks like it was for a 3 way model. The flew pipe has one of those temp sensors but its not hooked to anything and I don't see anywhere to hook it too.

I pretty much think I need to get the correct control board in here now but I don't know, maybe its the solenoid valve? It totally lights and looks good for one second then shuts off and the check light comes on. I have tried it maybe 10 times. ITs on AC right now and working for the most part.
its not getting very cold anymore and I wanted to test it in gas mode to see if I need to replace the heating element.
I think my second question is; does the ac heater ever intermittently fail? I wonder if its just not getting as hot as it used to. I guess ill know if I can ever get the gas working..

I really appreciate any help. Thank you so much!
 

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What model Dometic is this? Pilot with re-lighter is not a common LP design for fridges - I haven't even seen one in ages. They've used DSI for decades!

Heater elements are rarely intermittent or reduced in output. They either work or short out and go open after.  You can check it with an ohmeter. There have been cases, however, where an element was just sub-par, too little wattage for the job.

Throwing parts at it won't help. Get the model number and download a service manual from http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
 
hello and thanks for your quick reply. i have the service manual. I have gone through it about 10 times and i am still stumped. the model is ndr1062. i really think the control board is from a different model.
 
I am still trying to fix this damn thing. I ordered a new control board. Still same problem. I called support. They said it sounds like a bad ground so I just made a new ground and drilled it into the frame of the trailer. Same problem.
 
Take compressed air and blow out the burner area. Specially the gas tube to the burner. I need to do that every year. If you watch the flame burn you might see the flame moved away from the thermocouple. That is what I see with mine and a good blow out will fix this for me.

Good Luck.
 
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