Dometic refrigerator help, please

[toddpipkin]

Currently living in my Keystone Cougar until I get my new home built. Just got back from a 3 day trip visiting family. When I got back to the camper, the refrigerator was at 60° and the food in the freezer was thawed. I have an extended service contract with Cornerstone, but they are closed for the weekend.

I found this thing (thermistor?) (pic #3) loose and reattached it to the clip on the aluminum fins. (pic #4) The fridge is still holding at 60°

If possible, I need advice on troubleshooting a Dometic DM2852RBX refrigerator.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Here are the Service Tips for the Dometic 2852: https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf

Cornerstone is the insurer for your repairs - they don't fix anything or arrange for repairs. You need to contact a repair shop and have them diagnose the problem and then submit a repair estimate to Cornerstone for approval before they start any repairs. Read your Cornerstone contract on the procedure for repair reimbursement.

Was the fridge running on propane gas or electric when this happened. Whichever one it was, have you tried the other? Have you checked the 12v supply to the fridge, e.g. the fuse for it? The fridge control needs 12vdc whether in gas or electric mode. And did the RV have shore power or an adequately charged battery all the time?

The dangling thermister would likely cause the fridge to run non-stop, i.e. it would never show the interior was cool enough to cycle the cooling unit off. I don't think that is related to the problem.

 

[toddpipkin]

First time RV owner. Purchased used in June. 2019 Keystone Cougar.

Fridge running on electric. (I don't intend to ever run it on gas, and don't know how to switch it over.)

Light in fridge comes on when door is opened. No tripped breakers, no burned fuses.

Camper was connected to shore power and still is. Battery has shown constant 13.2 volts. I used the "In Command" app to check it while I was gone, and to turn lights on and off to make it seem occupied.

 

[toddpipkin]

Fridge interior temp is now up to 63°. I guess I'll have to go buy an ice chest and ice to use until I can get it fixed.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Your cooling unit may have failed, or it may simply be the electric heating element has burned out, a fairly common problem. RV absorption refrigerators use a heat source, either an electric heating element or a small propane flame to boil a water and ammonia mixture which cools the interior when it condenses back into liquid form.

That's why we were asking if you tried a different mode. If it's just the electric heating element burning out, switching to gas mode can restore operation until you can get a new element.

Fridge running on electric. (I don't intend to ever run it on gas, and don't know how to switch it over.)

Just press the mode button on the refrigerator (next to the on/off button) until the Gas indicator lights. You should hear the igniter click a couple of times and the flame will light. If the Check light comes on the flame didn't light. Turn the refrigerator off and then on and try it again, you might have some trapped air in the gas line that needs to be purged for gas to reach the burner.

If this makes the cooling unit start to work, you should see the freezer and then the refrigerator start to cool down within a half hour or so. The freezer has to get cold first, then cooling migrates to the refrigerator section.

 

[toddpipkin]

The main power button is on. I had the other button on "AUTO". The check light is not and has not been on.

I clicked the second button to the up position (to switch to gas power only, I assume). After a few seconds, I heard a click.

Going to get an ice chest and ice, just in case.

 

[Kirk]

I clicked the second button to the up position (to switch to gas power only, I assume). After a few seconds, I heard a click.

If you have propane that should have changed it over to propane. Have you been using propane for other things such as cooking? I suggest that you go outside and open the access panel there and look carefully for any signs of a yellow powder or sludge material as that would indicate a loss of refrigerant. You should also be able to see if there is a flame from propane now.

 

[toddpipkin]

I did switch it to gas before I went into town for ice. Pulled the exterior vent grill when I got back - flame is visible. Freezer temp at 49°, so it seems to be working on gas. Looks like I'll only have to replace the electric heating element.

Thank you all for the assistance!

 

[CharlesinGA]

Check light ONLY works in gas mode, and only to indicate that it failed to light and stay lit, when called for.

Other things to check. Are ALL of your electric receptacles in and on the outside of the trailer working? Specifically, is the GFCI receptacle, most likely in the bathroom somewhere, working. Sometimes fridges get wired to circuits that are GFCI protected. When the electric heating element that makes the fridge work, fails, they frequently short to ground, causing a GFCI to trip.

If you find it tripped, and reset it, only to have it trip again, your heat element has probably gone bad, which is an easy fix.

Charles

 

[JudyJB]

Once you get it fixed, you should be able to set it to Auto, and it will switch to electric when you are plugged in and back to gas when you are driving or have no electric hookup. This way, you will never have to remember to switch it.

 

[JudyJB]

Also, you can put your hand on the panel on the outside of your rig and can often tell that it is a bit warm, meaning that it is working.

 

[toddpipkin]

Check light ONLY works in gas mode, and only to indicate that it failed to light and stay lit, when called for.

Other things to check. Are ALL of your electric receptacles in and on the outside of the trailer working? Specifically, is the GFCI receptacle, most likely in the bathroom somewhere, working. Sometimes fridges get wired to circuits that are GFCI protected. When the electric heating element that makes the fridge work, fails, they frequently short to ground, causing a GFCI to trip.

If you find it tripped, and reset it, only to have it trip again, your heat element has probably gone bad, which is an easy fix.

Charles

No breakers tripped, no fuses burned. Checked GFCI outlet. Not tripped. Tested OK. I'll check the outdoor electric outlets in the morning.

Running on gas, freezer is now down to 28° and slowly but steadily falling. Seems to verify my theory of failed electric heating element, but I am definitely open to check any other possible diagnoses.

Newbies don't get such friendly treatment on some other websites I frequent.

A VERY BIG **THANK YOU!! ** TO ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!! As I learn, I promise you that I will pay it forward whenever I can.

 

[Isaac-1]

Note interior light is powered the DC control circuit that gets its power from the battery / converter, the electric heating element in the refrigerator that makes it cool gets its power from the 120V AC shore power (or generator).

 

[toddpipkin]

Note interior light is powered the DC control circuit that gets its power from the battery / converter, the electric heating element in the refrigerator that makes it cool gets its power from the 120V AC shore power (or generator).

Learning more with every reply....

Thank you!

 

[JudyJB]

The problem is that we learn the most when things go wrong, so you really want to stay as naive as possible because that will mean things have NOT gone wrong.

Most of what I have learned over the years has been because something has cost me money!! For example, I learned to make sure the microwave door is always latched because otherwise the door will fly open when you stop, the glass plate will fall on the floor and shatter, and you will have a terrible time finding a replacement. Also learned to make sure bathroom door was shut before I put the rear slide in because otherwise it will get crunched and need to be adjusted before it can be closed again. I could go on and on, but nearly everything you read here and learn from others is the result of what WE have learned the hard way. Goal is to make learning easier on newcomers.

And by the way, if you are in a campground and have problems with something, find a neighbor with a similar rig and ask for help. About 90% of the time, they will be more than happy to spread their knowledge. (Also, not a bad idea to carry around an extra bottle of wine or something similar as a thank-you, though it is probably not necessary.)

 

[CharlesinGA]

If you elect to buy a heat element yourself, and you are not getting a genuine Dometic part, read the reviews closely. I bought a spare element, china made, but while looking, I found several with reviews that said the element was too large in diameter to fit into the tube it slides into. I bought one that the people said worked and installed properly.

I know the sticker you posted a pic of shows 440w but every parts breakdown I can find on the DM2852 shows a 325watt element, same as used in my DM2652. If you look carefully at the exposed portion of the element, I think the Genuine Dometic elements have the wattage marked on them (laser etched). You should have a refrigerator manual in the package of manuals for appliances that comes with an RV, it will have the breakdown of parts in it, so verify the part number of the heat element. Also, verify that the fuses inside the back on the circuit board under that black cover are good. One of them is, I believe, a 120v fuse for this element.

HEATER, 325W, 115V. USE 3850644422

Also, just be aware, the RBX on the end of the model number indicates that the cooling package was made by a sub contractor when Dometic got behind in production due to relocating a facility. The cooling package is not as good as the original Dometic and more prone to failure and is not consider rebuildable by the companies that rebuild them. You can however, get a replacement cooling package should you ever need one.

Charles

 

[toddpipkin]

Also, verify that the fuses inside the back on the circuit board under that black cover are good. One of them is, I believe, a 120v fuse for this element.

Would this require removing the fridge from the wall, or can the panel to which you are referring be accessed from the outside vent panel, at the same time as the gas flame and electric element?

 

[Lou Schneider]

Newbies don't get such friendly treatment on some other websites I frequent.

A VERY BIG **THANK YOU!! ** TO ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!! As I learn, I promise you that I will pay it forward whenever I can.

I'm glad we could help! Don't worry, we were all newbies at some point. Welcome aboard!

 

[Larry N.]

Newbies don't get such friendly treatment on some other websites I frequent.

That's one of the goals of this site, is to stay friendly and be helpful. As Lou says, Welcome!

 

[Kirk]

Would this require removing the fridge from the wall, or can the panel to which you are referring be accessed from the outside vent panel, at the same time as the gas flame and electric element?

If you look at the picture in post #7 you can see the circuit board on the lower left. It might have a black cover over it. There should be 2 fuses there a 3a fuse for the 12V power and a 5a fuse for the 120v heater.

There are several versions of that circuit board so it may not look exactly like this one but the fuses should be there. There is a good chance that if the heating element is bad the 5a fuse will be open.