Dometic RM 2652 refrigerators dethawed

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marknoo

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Sep 20, 2016
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My freezer was full so I did not really see all the ice build up in the back. The fins in the main unit had some but not enough to be troublesome. I have had it much worse before I defrosted it.

Anyway, is the ice in the freezer enough to make the Dometic automatically shut off and defrost itself?

If it isn't, then I may have a bad refrigerator. If it is enough to make it shut down, then I am just lazy and stupid. (I already knew that, so no biggie on the lazy and stupid)

Do Dometic RM 2652s automatically defrost themselves if there is too much ice build up?

This is the first time this has a happened in over 10 years, usually I know enough to defrost manually.
 
Defrosting of the Dometic 2652 is done by shutting it off and allowing the frost/ice to thaw according to the 2652 owner's manual. There is no automatic defrost cycle.

Here's a link to the operator manual.  http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/2652operation.pdf
 
So if it defrosted on its own it isn't a safety feature to prevent the refrigerator from being ruined. Meaning it shuts down until the ice is gone and then turns itself back on. It probably means the refrigerator is bad. Or that there is some other problem.
Anyway, that means I should not expect that it will self correct.

Is that right?

(and it probably would not have happened because the electrical shut off because no breakers flipped)
 
I started that already. I am going to need to throw away the meat but the vegetables/fruits and other stuff is still good. I found the refrigerator when it was at 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

I think the meat not frozen is bad, but the freezer meat is still good because it was still mostly frozen.

Anyway, I am started on it so we will see.

Thank you very much for taking time out on a Sunday morning to help out a stranger from Oregon.
 
I got called into work for a few hours today. When I got back my fridge had climbed from 50F to 55F. That is after I cleared all the ice and everything out. So it is not going to self-correct as I hoped it might.

I opened up the back of the fridge from the outside and looked in there. I did not see any fuses but I did see that this thing also runs on propane ( I have never used it on propane, so I wasn't sure).

I also noticed that the place where the igniter and the gas pipe run into was hot. like it was trying to start but was not able to. So maybe the propane tried to kick in but was not able to start or something.

Shouldn't there be some fuses in there that I should check and possible replace before I get too excited. I called Curtis Trailer (that is the closest RV place to me) and they said a new fridge could be around $1200 and that they were a real bear to get in too.

So I am really crossing my fingers and praying for a bad fuse or something like that.

Tomorrow after work I will come home and look into it further, where do you think I should look first.

and Thanks for all your help

Edit:
I also unplugged the fridge inside the outside panel area and I turned it off with the button on the front of the fridge itself. It was giving off a "hot" smell. Like it tried to burn couldn't and maybe melted a little plastic or something in the process.  It was not a powerful smell, I had to sniff a few times to confirm that there was really something odd in the air and that it was coming from the "flue" of my refrigerator.
flue = the vertical cylinder that had a gas and igniter going into it. I don't know if that is the real name of it or not.
 
There are two fuses on the fridge circuit board, which is on the back side and probably under a protective cover.  If you have any cooling at all, a fuse is probably NOT the issue. It could, however, have burned out the electric heating element.  Try operating it on LP (propane) to see if it changes anything. I'm guessing it will NOT, but worth a try.

The area where the tubes join, just above the LP burner, is normally very hot if the fridge is operating at all. It's a boiler unit, heated by either the electric element or the gas flame and the boiler operates at about 350 degrees. The boiler is the engine that runs the cooling cycle.

Find a free service manual for your Dometic 2652 at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf
 
It does not cool at all. It is completely stopped.

here are some images I took. I can't get the attachments to upload so I will give URLs from Imgur (not sure why the won't up. They are under 350K and not over 3500K total, so they should, unless I misread) sorry for the inconvenience.

Anyway, here they are:

https://imgur.com/PKfCr6C

https://imgur.com/W5fHlua

https://imgur.com/tRg1Qv7

https://imgur.com/a3S6QP4

***Is the black box are the circuit board?
https://imgur.com/iPeooiR

Is there something I need to check called a "thermister" or something like that. I am told they go out sometimes.

Thanks for the manual. I had found one but it covered a ton of different refrigerators. It included mine but this is specifically for me so it should be a lot better. THanks again.

Edit:
I went to the store and bought a 3 and 5 amp fuse to replace the ones in the control module. Maybe this will fix it. I do hope so. I put them in but you don't hear this fridge turn on like you do other ones, so I guess I just have to wait and see if it gets cold.
 
I left it on  for a few hours now, the refrigerator is still at 65 degrees F. So it has not cooled.

Right now all I know is that the flue is hot. not red hot but hot enough I did not want to leave my hand on it to see if it would burn.

https://imgur.com/PKfCr6C
 

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