Dumping waste tanks

[Tiercel]

Common for a leaking slide valve... Short term maybe just keep a plastic tray or bowl you put under the cap to catch the drippage before you hook up your drain hose.

I had that issue when I first got my RV. Tried various remedies like mineral oil, exercising the valve, a generous spray around the seal to dislodge any bits, nothing helped. Finally concluded the valve was bad so set about to replace it. That's when things got interesting. Upon removal I discovered the valve slide was encrusted with what looked like mortar, or extreme water scale. The outlet of the black tank was also encrusted with it. At first I thought just what the hell did those folks eat? Or was this industrial strength toothpaste abrasive? The accretion on the slide actually abraded away the seal which is what caused the leak. The gray tank side was perfectly clean and the valve was OK, but since it was apart I replaced both. I learned the crust is called struvite which is a mineral formed by a chemical reaction with waste and some types of tank treatments. There are a few informative videos on utoob that describe this. I literally used a large screwdriver to chisel out what I could upstream of the valve a bit and it left of pile of slag in my wet bay. You haven't lived until you've had your arm up the business end of your black tank. So the lesson here is careful what treatments you put in your black tank. I have yet to have an issue with dumping or odors using just plain water, a squirt of Dawn and a shake of borax so it escapes me why the PO would've had a need to add chemicals and cause the struvite issue. At the end of the day though if your gray or black tank valves drip there's probably not many options short of replacing the valves. Not a horrible job in general, I've seen worse working on plumbing in my S&B.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Thanks, Mark.
I started on a drained tank and filled it a little over 1/3 with a cup of borax and a cup of Dawn just in case it had been neglected. I filled the tanks full before I dumped just to get a strong flow. In the spring I will look into the issue a little further. Even with the smallest leak, sitting for months before our trip might have accumulated some leakage. Maybe the valve was not shut as tight as it could have been. I will definitely use the pan/tray idea if I find the leak is not resolved.

 

[Ex-Calif]

I got one of these a while back. It's a great purchase.

After I drain the grey I'll add about a half bucket of dawn and hot water and run that down, then hook up the campground hose and flush the slinky out.

Rhino Flush

 

[Rene T]

The best thing to do is install a Camco twist on valve on the sewer outlet. If you have a valve leaking, it will stop at this valve. Put a cap on that valve. Then connect your hose after removing the cap, open your tank drain then open that new valve.

I also use mine to transfer water from my gray tank to my black tank

 

[Scottro]

Judy… there is no way you can give him an A- when one or 2 cups of brown liquid with tiny bits of toilet paper and a possible crap mentioned escaped! Sounds to me like maybe a C+!
Anyway it just gets easier and more efficient.

 

[Tiercel]

Judy… there is no way you can give him an A- when one or 2 cups of brown liquid with tiny bits of toilet paper and a possible crap mentioned escaped! Sounds to me like maybe a C+!

Well, I am not too concerned about my internet forum GPA. I am however interested in learning real-world working responses as opposed to ideal textbook responses. What would you have done if you removed the cap to attach the hose and unexpectantly had a cup of waste dump from behind the cap?

 

[Tiercel]

The best thing to do is install a Camco twist on valve on the sewer outlet. If you have a valve leaking, it will stop at this valve. Put a cap on that valve. Then connect your hose after removing the cap, open your tank drain then open that new valve.

I also use mine to transfer water from my gray tank to my black tank

Is this the type of valve you are talking about? https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Waste-V...utm_term=4577747946662921&utm_content=30 - 60

Explain the part about transferring water from your grey tank to the black tank. I don't understand how this valve could do that.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Is this the type of valve you are talking about? https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Waste-Valves/Valterra/T58.html

Explain the part about transferring water from your grey tank to the black tank. I don't understand how this valve could do that.

Usually the black and grey tanks are on the same level. If the grey tank is more full than the black, opening both valves with the outlet blocked off will cause the levels to equalize in both tanks, causing grey water to flow into the black tank. This will also work the other way so you can contaminate the grey tank with sewage if you're not careful.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Is this the type of valve you are talking about? https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Waste-Valves/Valterra/T58.html?feed=npn&msclkid=ed486433e9c914ac58e4059d23a1a23a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing | Shop - RV Waste Valves&utm_term=4577747946662921&utm_content=30 - 60

Explain the part about transferring water from your grey tank to the black tank. I don't understand how this valve could do that.

Yes, that's the type of valve Rene referred to. To transfer or equalize the levels of the two tanks, we simply close the add-on valve and open the standard grey and black valves. Since the grey tank typically fills faster than the black tank, being able to combine the capacity of both tanks allows a longer time between dump station runs. The photo below shows how my twist-on valve was installed along with a 45 degree clear elbow to move the waste outlet to a more convenient location.

 

[Oldgator73]

What would you have done if you removed the cap to attach the hose and unexpectantly had a cup of waste dump from behind the cap?

It’s happened to a few times. I just wash it down real well with the hose provided at the dump site. If I’m at a spot I do the same thing.

 

[Tiercel]

It’s happened to a few times. I just wash it down real well with the hose provided at the dump site. If I’m at a spot I do the same thing.

That's what I thought and that is basically what I did except I did it with disinfectant water.

 

[Tiercel]

Usually the black and grey tanks are on the same level. If the grey tank is more full than the black, opening both valves with the outlet blocked off will cause the levels to equalize in both tanks, causing grey water to flow into the black tank. This will also work the other way so you can contaminate the grey tank with sewage if you're not careful.

I wondered if that was how to transfer greywater. I have to say that while I like the valve (especially if I find mine is really defective), I do not see myself ever using this method. I would rather catch greywater in a dishpan at the sink and transfer it to the toilet or even catch it in a bucket from the outside drain and deal with it. Even if the levels equalize, you risk cross-contamination. I am sure that is not the end of the world, but I do not want to risk it.

 

[Tiercel]

The photo below shows how my twist-on valve was installed along with a 45 degree clear elbow to move the waste outlet to a more convenient location.

I am stunned that your potable water connection is that close to your waste water outlet.

 

[CharlesinGA]

I am stunned that your potable water connection is that close to your waste water outlet.

Very common and quite disconcerting. My Winnebago View was the first RV I had ever dealt with, and it was the same way. Why would anyone put the dump in the same compartment where the city water hose hooked up.

Winnebago does some rather good engineering, but really misses the boat sometimes. The hole in the bottom of the compartment that the sewer hose goes down thru, was too small for a sewer hose (duh!) and I had to take a saw and carefully enlarge the opening. You could not go straight out as the lip of the compartment was too high, and out the bottom makes it so low it won't empty properly at many dump stations, that have curbs surrounding the drain. I'm still baffled by the "bumper" on trailers and some motor homes that supposedly is for sewer hose storage, except the hoses don't fit in them.

RV companies don't actually use the RV's they build and they won't listen to customer complaints.

Charles

 

[JudyJB]

What would you have done if you removed the cap to attach the hose and unexpectantly had a cup of waste dump from behind the cap?

Did that once when I forgot to close valve at the end of the last dump. However, my waste outlet is in a "dirty" utility bay, and you have to pull the hose up through a hole in the bottom of the compartment. This meant that most of the gunk went into my utility bay. I was able to rinse some of it out, then sprayed the bay and the cement with bleach and washed it down the sewer, but it meant when I got to a full hookup site I had to empty the bay and really sanitize it and hose it out. (My utility bay is much larger than the one pictured and has only the electric receptacle and cord and the outlet for grey and black water. There is plenty of room in it to store a 15' sewer hose and the slinkies to rest it on, plus the rolled up electrical cord.)

The really exciting time is when I watched someone stretch their sewage hose out, and it broke in the middle spilling EVERYTHING on the pavement. Problem was the break was about 12' away from sewer drain, so it made quite a mess. The camp host came over with sawdust and bleach to clean it up.

Regarding the sewage bay hole being too small. When I first took my rig to the Fleetwood Decatur Customer Service place because my dealer refused to fix things, the mechanic noticed that not only was the hole for the hose too small, but it was offset. He enlarged the hole and installed a 6" cover instead of the 4" one that came with it. YEA!

 

[Lou Schneider]

What would you have done if you removed the cap to attach the hose and unexpectantly had a cup of waste dump from behind the cap?

After twisting the cap clear of the tangs I use one hand to keep the cap pressed against the drainpipe so it stays sealed. Then I use my other hand to hold the end of the sewer hose under the cap and let the bottom edge of the cap open slightly. If there's any leakage behind the cap it will dribble into the waiting hose.

 

[Rene T]

Is this the type of valve you are talking about? https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Waste-Valves/Valterra/T58.html?feed=npn&msclkid=ed486433e9c914ac58e4059d23a1a23a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing | Shop - RV Waste Valves&utm_term=4577747946662921&utm_content=30 - 60

Explain the part about transferring water from your grey tank to the black tank. I don't understand how this valve could do that.

Yes that is the valve.
In my case my black tank and two gray tanks drain out the same sewer outlet. On the day I dump, I make sure all my tanks are as close to full as possible. I drain my black tank first. When it stops flowing, I shut that twist on valve then open the other two gray tank valves. The water from the two gray tanks drains into the black tank till the levels equalizes. I then shut the gray tank drains then I open the new twist on valve. All the water that had transferred to the black tank runs out with much of the solids left behind on the first dump. I’m able to do this usually 2 or 3 times. Then I shut the black tank drain then dump the remaining liquid from the two gray tanks to rinse out the hose.

I’m not concerned about contaminating the gray tanks after all they are just storage tanks and I figure the gray tanks will already be contaminated and if done in the proper sequence, black water should never enter the gray tanks and so what if it does.

I also have a 45 degree clear elbow on the outlet side of the new twist on valve so I can monitor the liquid as it’s draining.

 

[SpencerPJ]

Well, I am not too concerned about my internet forum GPA. I am however interested in learning real-world working responses as opposed to ideal textbook responses. What would you have done if you removed the cap to attach the hose and unexpectantly had a cup of waste dump from behind the cap?

I would make sure I stood back another foot next time I dumped. The little bit of sheet is nothing, although I'd make an attempt to get it rinsed down the hole. PS: high water pressure is not always your friend.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

while I like the valve (especially if I find mine is really defective), I do not see myself ever using this method. I would rather catch greywater in a dishpan at the sink and transfer it to the toilet or even catch it in a bucket from the outside drain and deal with it.

There's three concepts here - first is to economize fresh water by using sink water to flush. Second is using gray water already in the tank to aid in rinsing the black tank. Third is having a common drain valve and equalizing the tanks to extend time to drain.

Each has it's merits and convenience factor. When we first started boondocking there was no way in hell DW would've used water from the sink or shower to flush the toilet. One trip this year the valve on the toilet broke and rather than go home I showed her how a simple glug from a jug was no different than pressing on the foot pedal. Amazing. Next time you're dumping, see for yourself that after the black tank is empty, leave the black valve open and pull open the gray. You'll see a gush of gray go into the black side as well as the drain. After a few seconds close the gray and watch to see how much of the gray comes back out of the black tank, often carrying with it a few stragglers. So this technique costs you nothing except some number of extra seconds to allow the black to re-drain. With a full gray tank you can get several rinse-gushes into the black tank. With the common valve in place you can do both the gray to black rinse a bit more effectively, as well as equalize the tanks if you find yourself needing just that much extra capacity before having to pull up stakes to dump. There is no hazard to "cross contamination", they're all waste water and the tanks are made and vented the same. My take on these techniques is they're not all or nothing. Since most of our trips are a week or less I don't take any measures to economize or conserve. For those few trips I think we might be cutting it close, I have the common valve stored in the stinky slinky box and can install it in seconds. Flushing with gray water is as simple as filling an empty water jug from the sink or shower you can do any time. So don't see this as you must-do, but just tools in the toolbox you can use when needed.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[NY_Dutch]

I am stunned that your potable water connection is that close to your waste water outlet.

Did you notice that I relocated the waste outlet to the outside of the bin? There's a reason I did that beside just making the connection more convenient.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

I replaced my sewer cap with clear so I can see if any leaked past the twist on valve. I always have a plastic bin handy when I pull the clear cap.