Force to winterize by compressed air

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Marc L

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Jan 2, 2007
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New Brunswick, Canada
There was a poll earlier this year about how do people winterize: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=35427


I had answered antifreeze only, but now I have to change my answer to blow out the lines.  Here's why:



Well, after hauling the trailer home for the winter on the weekend, I tried to winterize the trailer like I usually do using only antifreeze.  It's the first time I was winterizing this trailer since we upgraded mid-summer.  There was no bypass hose at next to the pump, but there was a valve and a screw fitting for one.  But since the pump is 10 feet away from the fresh water tank and I did not have a fitting and hose to put on the pump to winterized, I removed the hose from the fresh water tank instead.  This had two advantages: (1) I had enough hose to stick the end in the antifreeze jug; (2) it would also winterize the section of line from the tank to the pump.


So once I was all setup, I flick the water pump switch to ON.  No noise.  I figured, that's odd, so I opened a faucet in-case there was already enough pressure in the system so the pump did not need to come on.  Still no noise.  So I get the multitester out and disconnected the pump.  I checked the voltage going to the pump: 12.6V.  So there is power, but pump not working.  So I guess a new pump is on the shopping list.


In the meantime, I wanted to winterize NOW! to get it out of the way.  So I hauled out the 60 feet air hose from the garage to the trailer and made a make shift adapter that I could put in the city water connection and air hose quick connect.  Set the pressure to 30PSI and blew out the water from all the lines.  I still need to put a cup of antifreeze in all the P-traps.


Still debating if I will buy a pump or not.  We are seasonal with full hookups, but we do play next summer to go on a trip somewhere for a week during our vacation to change from the routine, so who knows where we will be.  Also at the beginning of the season, sometimes we end up at the campground before it is officially opened.  The owner does not care if we are camping year round, but he only has the electricity and water on from the May long weekend (Victoria Day) to the October long weekend (Canadian Thanksgiving/Columbus Day).


I also hate the location of my pump underneath the kitchen sink for two reasons, it uses space and it's far from the fresh water tank.  When replacing, I will likely relocate it under a dinette bench.  The fresh water tank is under belly, but the line going to the pump is coming through the floor into a dinette bench, this would be a better location for the pump.


Things to ponder on this winter along other mods I plan to do before next season like adding shelves in a closet, making an enclosure for the stereo (I did not come with a radio), adding additional TV outlets, fix the gray water venting, ...



 
The poll omits another way to winterize,  open sink faucets, open low point drain valve in floor, drain lines, remove water heater anode, and drain tank.  Thats it, except for some antifreeze down the sink drains.  Been doing this for 4 years and that's all.
 
Well, I'm in the process of winterizing my motor home just now (Headed SOUTH) :)

But before I started using the south method I used both wet and dry.  I decided I liked the dry method much much better.

Pink stuff does freeze and if I wanted to say.. Head to AZ in January I would have to get far enough warm for the frozen pink to melt before I could re-activate.

With the air method.. I'm good to go soon as the "house" heats up, perhaps 15 minutes to soften the pink in the toilet.  I can add water soon as it's warm enough and with heated tanks, that happens very fast.

And as I tell folks.. IF the air freezes.. . Busted pipes are not even on the problem list. BREATHING is.  In fact it's the whole list.
 
I might switch to all air too, but what about the water in the pump?  Well, in my current situation, I don't care as I need a new pump, but what if it was good?


Do you just drain the fresh tank and then let the pump run dry?
 
Marc L said:
Do you just drain the fresh tank and then let the pump run dry?

Marc,

In a word, yes.  After draining & blowing the lines I run the pump for a few seconds to clear out any water that may be in there & that's it. 

Mike
 
Cool.  I think I might stop using the strawberry daquiri mix to winterize from now on.  I find it just as easy with air to winterize, but it is much easier to summerize, no pink juice to flush out.  I normally sanitize the lines when I summerize though by adding water and bleach to the fresh tank and running it through the system.
 
I stopped using the Pepto Bismal after two years.  I'm always looking for the easy way & I had the blowout plug for clearing my garden hoses so I thought why not?  It sure beat the old way. 
 
1275gtsport said:
what about the hot water tank? just drain? or will the air blow it clear as well?

Yes just drain, but that's the same if using air or pink cocktail.  I just bypass the water heater by opening the bypass valve and closing both the inlet and outlet valves to the water heater.

BTW, it's a cold water heater.  If the water was already hot, you would not need to heat it  ;D
 
If the water were already hot, I would not have to issue a grammar citation.
 
I'm with Mark L., I have always used the air method.  If we decide to travel we can just add some water to the fresh tank and take off to a warmer climate.
 
Marc L said:

8)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subjunctive_mood

"Was" becomes "were" when describing a hypothetical situation rather than an actual one.

 
actually the tank is for holding the water was heated.........so it IS a hot water tank....if I had of said hot water heater......you guys are soooo funny.

anyway, normally after I drain the hot water tank (that would now be cold) I always dump a little pink stuff into it. just to explain my plumbing was put together by me. I am best described as a cross between MacGiver and Red Green. so there is no bypass installed. I need to disassemble the couch and disconnect the lines. yep love to winterize. :)
 
The first time it must have been a little bit of work to disassemble the couch and disconnect the lines, but now that everything is duct taped back together, should be easier to take apart.


Keep your stick on the ice. ;)
 
On the forced air method, after the 30psi blow at the city water port, do you build some kind of stopper with an air nipple to plow the sink & tub/shower p-traps clear?  I have heard of some folks using windshield washer fluid (which contains anti-freeze) in the p-traps... any thoughts on that?
 
I just poured strawberry daiquiri mix down the p-traps, but I like your idea of forcing it out by air.  One could get a cheap plunger or large rubber bong, drill it right through to put an air fitting on it.  Actually, my 2" shop vac hose would work great.  I could either blow it out or suck it out.
 
I just pour two cups of the pink stuff in each of the traps: kitchen sink, bathroom sink & tub/shower drain.  Emptying the traps will allow sewer gas into the coach.  I don't know about using windshield washer fluid.  Is it possible the methyl alcohol will evaporate over time? 
 

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