Fresh water usage on an RV

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I agree with Ardra. Whenever we head out, our fresh water tank is full. Ours holds 100 gallons, which means we're hauling around 835 lbs but I think it's worth it. We do a lot of boon docking and there usually aren't any places nearby to get more water. It's one of those things that's better to have and not need than to need and not have. Axle weight isn't a problem and I honestly can't tell the difference between a full or partially full water tank anyway.

Kev
 
On larger motorhomes the water weight is rarely an issue, or even noticeable. On smaller rigs the weight of water may be a greater percentage of the total, and on trailers water weight can affect the balance considerably. All depends on how much weight and where the tank is.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
on trailers water weight can affect the balance considerably. All depends on how much weight and where the tank is.

If the fresh tank is in the front, running with it full can actually improve handling...
 
I like to keep at least 10 gallons in the fresh tank but honestly, FULL is even better.. WHY.

Well the last time I pulled out of an RV park I planned about a thousand mile hike,, made it less than 100 before the engine blew.. But I had a full fresh tank and empty waste tanks so I was good till the tow truck dropped me back here at Cathead Creek Ranch RV park.
 
I have very soft water at home, so I always carry a full tank when I leave home.  Unfortunately, I've never been on a long enough trip to run out of water.  A full tank will last us about 10 days, much longer if we are in a camp ground and use their showers.  We do carry 6-10 gal of RO water for drinking also.
 
Well, I filled up the tank and turned everything on for a test run, and holy cow, it smelled like the depths of hell with all the sulfur.  From what I've been reading here, I gather it's because the hot water heater is in dire need of an emptying and a system sanitation is probably in order.  I emptied the heater tank, or at least I think I did. There was a lever that you can pull that ejected water out, but there is also a main plug that unscrews at the bottom that I did not take out, and I'm assuming that probably needs to happen. 

I'm heading out in about an hour, so this will have to be a Monday project :)  Thank God it's just an overnight trip. 

Do you guys think the hot water heater tank should be emptied out at some kind of interval?  My wife thinks that smell is rather off-putting, to put it mildly lol

 
You need to remove the drain plug from the water heater to empty the tank.  The valve you opened is the temperature/pressure relief (TPR) valve.  Before draining the tank, close the bypass valve(s) if you have them, and you should.  They or it will be on the back side of the tank.  Typically the tank is drained annually at the same time as sanitizing the fresh water system.
 
I will look for the valves when I get back to the trailer. I guess in my minds eye I don't remember seeing anything like that in there, but I wasn't thinking about it in particular at the time either, so I'll check.  Without crawling under the trailer, the only place I have is that access area where you light the pilot light, pull the drain plug, etc

Thank you.
 
The bypass valves are typically on the back side of the heater tank rather than the outside where you found the drain plug and PT relief valve.

You don't need to close the bypass (which isolates the heater tank from the rest of the plumbing) if you are going to drain and sanitize everything anyway. You want to do both the tank and the lines. Every place that touches the water.
 
Clint look inside the trailer behind the water heater. It might be in a closet or behind a access panel.
Be careful with the drain plug. Mine was plastic.
Bill
 
If I'm not going out for more than two weeks, I drain the water tank and water heater...then take the time to sanitize the system before re-filling. It's a bit time consuming, but, IMO, it's worth it.
FWIW, I travel with a full water tank and empty black/gray water tanks. You just never know...
 
Atwoods use plastic drain plugs to avoid damaging the soft aluminum threads in the tank wall, but you do have to be careful not to destroy the soft hex head by using the wrong tool. Pliers will chew them up and an incorrect wrench size will shear the corners off. A socket wrench of the proper size is best.
 
One other comment on drain plugs. I recommend you buy a package of spares (they come 2 to the package) so if you have a problem you will have a replacement. Also it is pipe thread. I found that apparently someone had tried to use a brass plug that had the wrong threads. I had to find a pipe tap to straighten out the threads so I could reinstall a plastic plug.
Bill
 
Some heaters come like mine with an anode rod. If you have a metal plug most likely that is the reason. I always had an extra plastic plug when I had that type and carry an extra rod plug now. As stated the plastic can get damaged. With the one I have now it is hard to damage but then you have one ready when it needs replaced.
 
Well, everything is flushed and sweet smelling lol.  Mine has the plastic plug with no anode. 

I bought some LED fixture bulbs and am severely unimpressed with their output compared to the old style bulbs.  They are the 1003 size.  Anyone tell me a good brand of bulb?  Maybe I picked up a dumpy brand name or something.  And for 9.95 a pop...geez
 
Try our advertiser, rvledbulbs.com. As an RVForum member, you get a 10% discount. Best of all, if you aren't satisfied they will accept your return without hassle.

They handle Revolution and Ming bulbs, both top quality brands. Also some no-name brands for less (but they still guarantee satisfaction). You can get anywhere from 170 to 400 lumens ( a incandescent 1003 is about 180 lumens.

Sometimes the problem is that the leds are directional and some shapes don't always work well with the reflector in the fixture. If possible, get a flat led replacement that has all the leds pointing downward, out of the fixture. They seem to work best. The "tower" style bulb (leds all around) emulate the 360 degree light of an incandescent but that's not always the best choice.
 
Because our trailer is only used several times a year I installed a valve to expedite the process.  Also because of that one time I forgot to let the pressure off.  Luckly it had cooled down. 
 

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