Fridge blows 12 volt fuse at converter

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

82corvette

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Posts
287
Location
The Cornhusker State
The last time out our fridge blew a 12 volt fuse. I checked every connection possible,made sure everything was clean & replaced the fuse. Everything worked great then the next day it blew again. This is pretty new to me & I am lost. Could it be the control board?
 

Rex

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Posts
253
Location
Alabama Gulf Coast
Well, if you have a 4-door Norcold, I may have the answer for you.  On that unit, the 2-doors on the fridge part have a flipper between them.  The flipper is attached to the left hand door.  The flipper has a heater in it, and thus some wiring from the door.  On mine, the wires broke off where they entered the flipper and shorted together.  Fuse would blow any time the doors were opened.  When closed, the fridge worked fine.  Almost never found the problem.

Hope this solves your problem.

Rex
 

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
74,421
Location
At our Silver Springs FL home
The fridge has a 12V powered circuit board as well as internal lights that are 12V. Does the fridge still cool when the fuse is blown?  Does the interior light still work?

Is the blown fuse somewhere on the fridge itself or is it one of the fuses in the RV's fuse panel?  Could be wiring from the rv panel to the fridge.
 

82corvette

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Posts
287
Location
The Cornhusker State
It is Dometic 2 door & the fuse is at the panel back in the bedroom. When the fuse blows the control panel has no power & there is no light inside. I don't think it cools when this fuse is blown. I checked all the wiring & connections & everything looks good. Everything is clean on the back of the fridge.  Thanks, Al
 

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
74,421
Location
At our Silver Springs FL home
I was hoping for a Dometic model number or type.  Is it a "3-way" model, i.e. has 120 VAC, LPG and 12 VDC cooling modes?  If so, is the problem only in 12V mode? That would suggest the 12V heating element is shorted out.

If not a 3-way model (only has LPG and 120 VAC cooling), there are oly the two things I mentioned earlier that use 12V power, so one or the other must be bad.  I'm wondering if the light goes out when you close the door - we have a Dometic that had that problem. Never blew a fuse but it was tough to cool with that constant heat source inside. They never figured out why the door didn't push the light switch all the way to the off position, so we added a shim to the striker that pushes the switch and now it goes off.  You could try removing the light bulb and see if the fuse blows again. That would eliminate most of the possible problems with the lighting circuit. If it still blows, then it sounds like a problem with the board, since you say you have checked all wiring up to it.

Are you sure the fuse is the right size for the fridge? I note you say this is "pretty new", so I gather you haven't had the rig long. And is it new or used? In any case, the fuse could simply be undersized, even on a new rig.  Check the Dometic manual - it should give a required fuse rating for the 12V input. If not, call Dometic and ask:
Phone: 1-800-544-4881
E-mail: [email protected]

If you don't have the manual, you can get it from the www.dometicusa.com website.

And of course if the rig is new, your warranty would cover repairs at any place that has Dometic authorized service - the fridge has its own warranty and is not tied to the brand of RV or its dealer network. I think Dometic gives a 3 year warranty, but check with them first to make sure it is covered.
 

82corvette

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Posts
287
Location
The Cornhusker State
I just got this fridge deal figured out.When this unit was built in 1997 some "genius" decided to run the 12 volt power wire from the converter to the fridge between the fresh water tank & the frame. After several years of filling the tank it finally rubbed the insulation off & gave me this intermittant problem. After messing with this for a couple hours at the campground I finally traced out the problem, deleted the bad wire & used my 12 volt car starter box to power the fridge controlls. Today at home I crawled under the trailer & installed a new wire away from any problem areas. I just thought I would do this follow up post in case anyone else ran into a similar wiring problem.  Alan
 
Top Bottom