From the
RM2652 manual.................... (I have a RM2662)
4. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATING MODES
A. AUTO MODE Press the AUTO/MANUAL mode selector button (2) to the DOWN position. The AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate. When operating in the AUTO mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate. The control system will automatically select between AC and GAS operation with AC having priority over GAS. If the control system is operating on AC energy and it then becomes unavailable, the system will automatically switch to GAS. As soon as AC becomes available again the control will switch back to AC operation.
If 120 volts AC is not available, the control system will automatically switch to GAS operation. Within 45 seconds the burner should be ignited and operating normally. If unsuccessful, the CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate. To restart an ignition attempt with the CHECK lamp illuminated or to clear (turn off) the CHECK lamp, press the main power ON/OFF button to the OFF and the ON position. The control system will attempt a new 45 second ignition sequence. On the initial refrigerator start-up on gas (120 volts AC is not available), it may take longer than 45 seconds to allow air to be purged from the gas line. If the refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main power ON/ OFF button (1) three of four times. If repeated attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all manual shutoff valves in the lines are open. If the problem is still not corrected, contact a service center for assistance. NOTE: DO NOT continue to reset GAS operation if the CHECK indicator lamp continues to be illuminated after 3 or 4 tries. If 120 volts AC becomes available while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the control system will switch to 120 volt AC operation. The CHECK lamp will not turn off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed to the OFF then ON position. In AUTO mode operation, the temperature is controlled by a single temperature setting.
B. MANUAL MODE When operating in the MANUAL mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off, and the refrigerator will run continuously on the energy source selected by the control system.
Basically, the check light tells you it attempted to start in GAS mode and failed, or the switch from A/C to GAS while in AUTO failed (did not light). You have to switch it off (and preferably wait a minute or so) then switch it back on.
Everything you do on these fridges needs to be slow and methodical to operate. You cannot just go wham, bam! and expect it to work. If you manually switch it to gas, do it and watch for it to switch and light off. Just don't get in a hurry. One member of the Bigfoot club was on the west coast leaving to head east and attempted to switch to gas for the road, but due to his rapid stabbing at the switches it didn't change over and the inverter came on and ran his lithium batteries down running it on A/C. He came all the way back to the East without power or the fridge because he didn't know what happened. I said the same thing when he complained of the batteries being run down and the fridge seemed to have not switched, don't rapidly stab at the switches, and he commented that that is the same thing both his wife said, and the RV tech told him when they got home.
Don't over fill the fridge and don't block the fins or back wall, the fins remove heat, the cooled air falls to the bottom via the back wall, and warmer air rises up the front to the top where it is again cooled.
Adding fans helps I'm sure (I don't have them but have considered it)
13" Triple Fan Deluxe Frost Guard RV Refrigerator Evaporator Fan w/LED Light & Grill Brand: RV Cooling Unit Warehouse
As far as the door sealing, it may appear to be closed and is actually not. This is not like a home refrigerator with magnetic door seals that pull the door closed tight and seal. It has a LATCH and you have to push the door till it actually CLICKS and you know it is locked. My freezer is air tight, If I close it and quickly attempt to reopen it, I have extreme difficulty due to the air suction preventing me from pulling it open.
The door used to seal really well, it was hard to open it. Over the past few months, the fridge has been much easier to open. How can I fix this?
Push the doors slowly and firmly closed. Do you get a loud click from the latch? If not, is the thumb latch that says PUSH on it springy and if you push it in, it springs back out? (it is part of the handle and the handle assembly would need to be replaced if it is broken or not springy like it should be).
I just went and tried mine, they make a VERY loud click when they latch. However there is no adjustment that I see.
If the thumb latch is springy, is the tiny catch on the jam still there? Mine is gray in color on a black door frame, so I suspect they can be replaced but I do not see them in the parts list.
Last edit I hope. My door handles appear quite different than yours. Do they have a piece you push with your thumb to unlatch them? How about a close up of the door handle and latch and of the very tiny catch on the frame so we can see if it is really different than mine or just looks different from a distance. Remember, these are RV fridges and are not made to be use 365 days a year, so if you do, you have to be extra gentle with everything to make them last.
Charles
