Fridge questions

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Thank you very much for the detailed explaination. I am going to copy all of this and paste it into a Word file and save it in my computers folder where I have the fridge manuals and other manuals, hopefully it will come in handy should I ever get into this situation.

I would very much like to someday get my hands on a removed fridge and pull the cooling unit to see the details of the installation.

Charles
 
We have a 2018 Cedar Creek silverback 35IK.. It has a residential fridge.. Questioning the way it was installed. An L shaped  bracket was installed on the top right side and bolted into the slide. .It has pulled out many times. Upon inspection the legs were never adjusted on the bottom and it was still on the wheels. I have since adjust the legs so the fridge is much more stable. The bracket failed and It is not attached anywhere. I know it moves somewhat when traveling and worry about damaging the doors, because it is so close to the center island. Has not incurred any damage as of yet. Any advice on where and how to attach? Thanks 
 
rgparker already asked his residential fridge question elsewhere, so please make any responses about his installation at the link below.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,130280.msg1196125.html#msg1196125
 
Hey RVFixer?  Where do you live? 

I know who I want to help me replace my cooling unit when the time comes!
 
Hey Muddypaws

I didn't read your question until today. You don't need any help replacing a cooling unit. Just read the instructions a couple of times first, watch the online videos and follow the instructions carefully. I do all my own trailer and trailer appliance maintenance but this is the first time I ever removed an RV fridge or replaced a cooling unit. Take pictures first, label all the wires that you disconnect and parts that you remove. You will read where people replaced a cooling unit in a few or even a couple of hours. I question if they actually did that, OR... if they got a proper installation and the cooling line seated properly against the freezer plate and the condenser leveled with the top of the fridge box. I would rather brag about a good job than a fast job but that's just me. I read about a lot of people having short lived replacement cooling units....Hummmm............

The part where the instructions are not real clear, on my unit, was getting the cooling lines hard against the metal freezer plate. The instructions on my unit told you to do that but not how to do it. It tells you to push the foam block down all the way. You can stand on that block after installing it but that doesn't mean the cooling line is hard against the freezer plate. I had to rasp the edges of my foam block to get the cooling line to contact the plate. I used chalk to transfer and indicate, on a fit check, that the cooling line was actually in contact with the plate. That and sealing in the foam block are the most important parts. The rest is pretty simple. I used a lot of words in my posts about the job, but that is just because I'm a wordy guy. This is a pretty simple DIY job.

One more comment; I read on some fridge post here that a guy had two tubes for the heating element to slip into on a new cooling unit. A reply suggested that he had the wrong cooling unit. There were other indications that he did have the wrong unit but it wasn't because of the two tubes. Many cooling units have two tubes and instructions say that you can put the heating element into either tube. When you remove a failed heating element you often have to pound it out and the old element and the inside of the tube is covered with "crud." Both my old and new units had two tubes. I suspect that if you had to replace a bad element that second tube is the one intended to be used rather than pounding the new element into the old cruddy tube.
 
It's been my observation over the years that owners that have the most problems with the coils are those that regularly store the RV over the winter months..  The lubricant in the coils that retards corrosion is not being circulated for many months and corrosion begins.. I have two long term ownership absorbsion types
that are still going strong at ages over 25 years and have never been turned off..
  I recently had to remove my M/H dual powered Dometic and replaced it with an Energy Star rated electric unit at age 22..The new one is a Frigidaire, low draw, energy officiant unit that I like really well, and I gained five extra square feet of usable space for less cost  than a new coil set would have been..>>>Dan
 
Be aware that just because you find yellow "moss like" crud under the coils does NOT mean that the coil pressure has been totally depleted!!  In the process of removing my Dometic I had to remove the coils to clear the M/H door..  I grabbed a sawsall and went after it,,,all hell broke loose!!  Ammonia filled the M/H immediately and displaced all the oxygen leaving me holding my breath while getting OUT of there.!
  Of course the box was blocking the door and I had to bail over it to exit..  Very exciting for awhile.  It's surprising how fast you can move at 79 when you have to!!.>>>Dan
 

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