Generator Question for Travel Trailer

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Chicken Hawk

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Nov 30, 2005
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I have a Terry/Fleetwood 26 foot travel trailer and we sometimes go where there is no electric hook up.  I've been looking at this particular Honda Generator and wanted to know if everyone thought this would be enough power for the A/C. fridge, microwave, etc.  Your thoughts and comments are appreciated!

Honda EU3000 IS

Specs:
Engine: 6.5 HP, Single Cylinder,
Overhead Valve, Air Cooled
Displacement: 196 cc
AC Output: 120V
3000W max.(25A)
2800W rated (23.3A)
Receptacles: 20A 125V Duplex
NEMA Plug Number: 5-20P
30A 125V Locking Plug
NEMA Plug Number: L5-30P
DC Output: 12V, 144W (12A)
Starting System: Recoil, Electric
Fuel Tank Capacity: 3.4 gallons
Run Time on One Tankful: 7.2 hrs. @ rated load--20 hrs. @ 1/4 load
Dimensions (L x W x H): 25.8" x 18.9" x 22.4"
Noise Level: 58 dB @ rated load
49 dB @ 1/4 load
Dry Weight: 134 lbs.
 
I'm interested is hearing feedback on your question as I have been considering the same generator too.  From reading previous generator comments on this forum, I've yet to see someone unhappy with a Honda generator.  I have a 28 ft. Cherokee and I believe the Honda 300is would do the job including running the AC.  Without the AC, I could get by with a 2000 watt generator, perhaps even a 1000 watt generator. 

I was in Home Depot last week and saw a Honda 3000 generator listed in their tools catalog for $1249.  It did not say 3000is, just 3000 and did not list a db rating for it.  But the picture looked exactly like the 3000is.  I couldn't find any information on the Honda web site for a 3000, only the 3000is.  Does anyone know if there is a difference?  The $1249 price is better than I have seen for a 300is so far.

Jake
 
Chicken Hawk,
The eu3000is will certainly power any one of those appliances, but prpbably not all of them at the same time.  The biggest concern is the start-up of the a/c compressor, where the power draw is extremely high for about a second. If some other major loads, such as a big microwave, were also running, it momentarilyexceed the genset's max load and trip its breaker.  After a/c start cycle completes. the 3000is should be able to handle everything nicely.  You can add up the wattage ratings of all your appliances and figure out what combinations might exceed the Honda's capacity, which is 2800 watts continuous or 3000 watts short term. Overall, the eu3000is is a good choice for your needs.

Jake:
Honda makes an EB3000 model that is not as quiet and does not use the inverter technology that the 3000is has. It should be somewhar bit cheaper. Also, be aware that there are Honda-powered gensets which are not the same as Honda generators. These are generators which use Honda engines to drive the mechanical generator but use less expensive  (and less efficient and more noisy) generator components.  They are usually much less expensive.  A lot of the noise of a genset comes from the AC generator component rather thqan the engine - that why the electronic (inverter) method is used in the super-quiet Hondas.
 
Gary,

Thanks for the clarification between the 3000 and 3000is.  I have also seen the generators you spoke of that have Honda engines but not Honda generators.  They seemed to be in the 68-74 db range and opposed to the Honda 3000is in the 48-56 db range.  Guess I'll just wait and get the 3000is when the need gets strong enough. 

Jake
 
The Eu3000is will cost about $450 more than the EB3000 but I think it's would be worth it to a camper.  The noise level alone is  a huge plus.  But they are both expensive compared to the common "contractor" gensets.
 
Here I go again, a newby sticking his nose in, but oh well.

I have a 30 ft fiver and run two Honda 2000is.  Without air, one of them will run the coach nicely including the micro, but the air requires both.  With the synchro cables, one is the master and puts out full power while the other is a slave and adds additional amps as needed.  I like having the two smaller ones because I can rassle them around without help where I would be hard pressed to handle a 140 lb. or so unit alone.
 
I have a 30 foot 5 er and also purchased 2  2000 watt Honda units. We haven't had to use the AC often which means better gas economy when using a 2000 watt unit vs a 3000 watt unit
 
With the synchro cables, one is the master and puts out full power while the other is a slave and adds additional amps as needed.
That would be true only if you had the ECO switch turned on for one unit and off for the other. With the ECO off, that unit will run at full rpm's all the time, and the other unit with the ECO on will come up to speed as needed.
 

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