Help - no house power !!

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Jack Matyas

New member
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Posts
3
Location
BETHLEHEM,PA
08 Itaska Horizon - just put in all 5 batteries - still have no inside power - ceiling lights ,fridge ,no start generator .Even when plugged in this is going on .Strange thing is that inside outlets have power .Any ideas ????
 
Look for a large fuse somewhere between the battery and the fuse panel. It could also be a resettle breaker, so follow the plus from the batterry.
 
Hopefully you took pictures of the battery wiring before the replacements?

I think the generator starts from the chassis batteries but I'm not 100% sure. There is a house battery bank disconnect by the entrance door - check that. Also check all 12V circuit breakers, ours are in the bed area. There is a very high amperage fuse inline with the large 12V cable that feeds the inverter, check that. Check battery voltages at your OnePlace center - they should be at or above about 13.0 volts DC.
 
So there is power on both sides of the inline fuse that leads to the inverter - the switch by the front door is OK as I hear something when i hit the switch .As for the volts indicator the engine side shows 13.9 but the house side isn't lit up and shows nothing.Checked all the breakers under bed - everything fine.Took pics when I replaced batteries - they look the same .Positive to positive - negative to negative on both the engine and house batteries.
 
Breakers are the 120VAC side. Your batteries have nothing to do with that circuit. You mentioned INverter. Are you confusing that with a CONverter that takes 120VAC and CONverts it to 12VDC to run lights refer etc? You need to find a fuse panel that feeds all low (12VDC) stuff and check there.
 
Re 12 volts.. Ok tools needed ONE a test light.. Get this anywhere automotive tools are sold Wal-mart auto dept, Autozone. NAPA. ACE hardware. long long list of suppliers

A roll of wire, 25 feet or so and a clamp or electrical clip (This makes life easier and is not always needed.

Clip to battery negative. tip to positive BRIGHT LIGHT good. no light re-seat the bulb
Bright light good.
Now you move negative clip to any handy frame part. Bright light good. no light bad ground connection on battery (you can use the light to figure out which end too).

Move out along the positive wire. This is where you may wish to unroll the spool of wire hook one end to the negative battery (you can put it under the mounting bolt or use a clip after stripping off some insulation) and bare an inch or so of the other end and clip the light to that.

At each connection touch tip to terminal.> Bright light good. dark bad problem exists between two.

IE: touch the battery side of a circuit breaker or fuse bright, Other side dark, tripped/blown.
 
Re 12 volts.. Ok tools needed ONE a test light.. Get this anywhere automotive tools are sold Wal-mart auto dept, Autozone. NAPA. ACE hardware. long long list of suppliers

A roll of wire, 25 feet or so and a clamp or electrical clip (This makes life easier and is not always needed.

Clip to battery negative. tip to positive BRIGHT LIGHT good. no light re-seat the bulb
Bright light good.
Now you move negative clip to any handy frame part. Bright light good. no light bad ground connection on battery (you can use the light to figure out which end too).

Move out along the positive wire. This is where you may wish to unroll the spool of wire hook one end to the negative battery (you can put it under the mounting bolt or use a clip after stripping off some insulation) and bare an inch or so of the other end and clip the light to that.

At each connection touch tip to terminal.> Bright light good. dark bad problem exists between two.

IE: touch the battery side of a circuit breaker or fuse bright, Other side dark, tripped/blown.
got time to walk me thru this process tomorrow?
 
I more or less did all you are doing is following the light.. Easiest is to test battery Bright light good dark/dim bad
Then move the clip to a handy metal frame part.. Same. if you get no or little light you have a bad negative lead on the battery.. Now anchor a long wire to the battery negative. clip to it and move out along the positive.. Test every terminal till you find a dark spot.

Usually you have Ground--Battery--(Fuse or breaker)---(Switch or solenoid)---- Fuse box

Sometimes the items in prens are swapped (Switch before fuse)
 
Breakers are the 120VAC side. Your batteries have nothing to do with that circuit. You mentioned INverter. Are you confusing that with a CONverter that takes 120VAC and CONverts it to 12VDC to run lights refer etc? You need to find a fuse panel that feeds all low (12VDC) stuff and check there.
There are 12VDC breakers as well as the 120VAC breakers.
 
Before you do anything else---

Check the house solenoid that turns off or 12V power to the house. There are two solenoids in close proximity with each other probably located in your electrical compartment. One solenoid is the "Battery Mode Solenoid" which connects the house and chassis batteries for charging when the engine is running (or when the Battery Boost switch on the dash is operated. And the other solenoid is operated by the switch near the entrance door.

The click you heard when you operated that switch by the door is that solenoid operating but just because you heard it operating doesn't mean it's working. Check voltage on each side of that solenoid. Look at my Horizon projects link in my signature, one project shows the two solenoids for your orientation.

The fact that everything worked before your battery replacement leads me to believe that a) your battery installation isn't correct or b) something else in the 12V circuitry spontaneously broke.
 
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