I got out today to begin the process of de-winterizing my motor home. 97 Callista Cove, Ford E350 chassis. I found that I do not have running lights or tail lights. I have brake lights, turn signal, etc, but NO running or tail lights. I checked the fuse, no luck. I do have a GFCI that I have to reset occasionally that lurks in my bathroom. This day neither the test or reset button on the GFCI works, so I am replacing it. What's going on?
Help, No running lights, tail lights etc
- Thread starter jollyman
- Start date
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boatbuilder
Well-known member
If neither button works on the GFCI it usually means you have no power to it. It will not reset or trip with the test button unless it has power. Don't know what to tell you about the running lights unless it is the headlight switch.
Water Dog
Well-known member
Your GFI in your bathroom has nothing to do with your tail/running lights. Do you have headlights and dash lights? Sounds like either headlight switch, fuse, or possibly bad ground. If your headlights and dash lights are not working also, it is probably the switch, if just the tail and marker lights, most likely a fuse. My previous Ford Super Duty had two fuse boxes. One under the hood had fuses for the towing package lights, and the one under the dash had fuses for the truck lights.
Agree with boatbuilder on the GFI. Are you plugged in to shore power, and are the breakers for your bathroom circuit turned on?
Agree with boatbuilder on the GFI. Are you plugged in to shore power, and are the breakers for your bathroom circuit turned on?
Thanks, I do have headlights, brakelights, turn signals, but no rear or running lights.
The GFCI may have gone bad? I checked the power and seem to be getting power to the GFI. It seems this device has kept the rear of the coach shut down until reset. I did not know for sure if this impacted other areas. I did not think so, but at a loss for what was working last fall and not now.
Thanks again....
The GFCI may have gone bad? I checked the power and seem to be getting power to the GFI. It seems this device has kept the rear of the coach shut down until reset. I did not know for sure if this impacted other areas. I did not think so, but at a loss for what was working last fall and not now.
Thanks again....
boatbuilder
Well-known member
The GFCI will protect not only what is plugged into it but also several outlets downstream of it. The GFCI should be the first outlet in line from the breaker. It is also put where it can be viewed and reset easily. It only takes a very small amount of leakage to trip the outlet. Look for moisture in an outdoor outlet, it doesn't take much.
If you do change out the GFCI make sure the line and load wires are in the correct places. Line is from the breaker and load is to the downstream outlets.
If you do change out the GFCI make sure the line and load wires are in the correct places. Line is from the breaker and load is to the downstream outlets.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,635
Excuse me if I'm stating the obvious, but the GFCI has nothing to do with your taillights. The GFCI is on the 120 volt circuits while the taillights are 12 volts.
The running lights are wired into the taillight circuit. The amber parking lights under the headlights in front are also on this circuit. Do the parking lights come on? If they do, the problem is somewhere to the rear of the cab, which means the fuse and headlight switch are OK. If they don't come on, look for the Tail Light fuse in the E350 fusebox. If it's OK the problem is probably in the headlight switch.
The running lights are wired into the taillight circuit. The amber parking lights under the headlights in front are also on this circuit. Do the parking lights come on? If they do, the problem is somewhere to the rear of the cab, which means the fuse and headlight switch are OK. If they don't come on, look for the Tail Light fuse in the E350 fusebox. If it's OK the problem is probably in the headlight switch.
jim and di
Well-known member
coming out of winter storage look for signs of rodents in the area. Mice love to chew wire.
Jim
Jim
Larry N.
Well-known member
If you have an ICC switch (used to flash your running/tail lights for trucker-type communications), it or its associated wiring could be bad.
But since you have problems to the rear of the unit in both 120VAC and 12VDC areas, Jim's suggestion of rodent problems makes a great deal of sense.
But since you have problems to the rear of the unit in both 120VAC and 12VDC areas, Jim's suggestion of rodent problems makes a great deal of sense.
Front and side marker lights should be on the same circuit as the tail lights, not the brake lights, but the tail lights. First, check the tow vehicle for a dead fuse. Then check all your marker lights to see if any are working. The circuit should be wired from front to back. If the front ones are working, then the plug and front junction box should be fine. If none are working, check the truck plug first for power, then check the plug and front junction box on the trailer. If some of the front or side lights are working, but not the rear, then the break has occurred somewhere on the trailer between the working lights and non working lights. It is a process of following the wiring from front to back. Another possibility is if the truck plug connector is hot when not connected to the trailer, and then dead immediately after connecting the trailer, then a short may be occurring somewhere in the trailer and tripping a breaker or fuse in the truck. Use a continuity tester to see if the marker light pin in the plug has a short to the ground. A dead short can occur anywhere in the trailer and is much more difficult to find. A broken wire or connector is easier to find.
