Help RV broke down

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This site has a manual for your rig, you might want to download it. Note that the page numbers online slightly differ from actual page numbers in the manual.

The link should take you to page 27 which shows battery info...

Thank you, im going to have a look at it right now..
 
Sorry for your problems. You should find a mobile mechanic to come look at your system and determine what is wrong, or what you need to do. For sure, without being plugged in your batteries will deplete.
Yes for sure, i need to have someone come into this and teach me all i need to know and i know i have to hire an electrical person bcuz this is crazy!
 
All of your helpful replies are appreciated. Im posting a pic of how they were BEFORE i uninstalled them. I took them to AutoZone for re-charging and ended up with one being replaced for a new one, then my other 2 charged, i re-installed them by this picture. If this isnt correct, i need to know.
My issue : i live in my RV, my batteries would be dead every a.m. im doing something wrong...View attachment 149595
This is just a guess, but didn't your problems begin back when you made this post and were replacing the batteries? I am thinking that something was installed wrong.
 
This is just a guess, but didn't your problems begin back when you made this post and were replacing the batteries? I am thinking that something was installed wrong.
Yes, this issue is an ongoing one, back then, i was able to drive her, she was mobile, but now, recently, she just goes kapoot out on the hwy. No sputtering of power, no choking on fuel, no hesitations, just dies at 55mph to no power and a slow stop to side of the hwy, shed crank but not start, then towed her home and 2 days later, then no power AT ALL, not a sound when turning the key, no power to anything, just dead. So, yes, this has been ongoing for me...
 
Ok RV electrical 00.1 Inverters and converters and inverter/chargers

A converter is like the device you use to charge your phone. only much larger
It converts 120vac to battery voltage... Just like the phone charger. To charge your phone.

IF you are not plugged in, then it has a very good reason for not working :) (No 120 volts to convert)
Unless you are running a generator.


And INVerter does the INVeres of a converter. Converts battery voltage back to 120vac for your Television or radio or electric razor.

An INVERTER/Charger combines both functions in one box. (I have one behind me as I type)

So now you know what those things do

As someone pointed out you need a mobile technician/mechanic to pay a call on you. Sounds like the Mechanic is who you need but it could be somethign an RV tech covers.

You should also sehedule an hour or two of an RV tech's time or perhaps a well informed neighbor RVer's time to show you around your rig. explain where the converter (or inverter/charger) is, if you have an inverter.. I've seen way too many trouble calls that were rather easily solved..

One day a man with a delux motor home contacted his next site neighbor (who had a vintage Blue Bird also a Delux) and he came and fetched me.. Tripped circuit breaker on his inverter. he did not even know he had an inverter.
 
Between this, and the house battery exercise this is quite the RV initiation. It's annoying enough when you're familiar with the systems and making repairs, but likely downright frightening and demoralizing to be crapped out on the side of the road with no idea what to do. Even something simple can take time and effort to discover. Not exactly the kind of memories one hopes to make with an RV.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
I anticipated the baptism by fire sort to speak and all the other sayings that we all who have lived a day can recollect and certainly they apply, but it hasnt discouraged the pursuit of learning bcuz its "my home", i HAVE to learn this or be absolutely homeless. Sure, ive cried, kicked, screamed, ive asked, "what?.." and "huh...? and not even understand the answers, and these are repeated questions, but i repeat until i understand, im so grateful for you all in my journey here, thank you so much!!
 
Ok RV electrical 00.1 Inverters and converters and inverter/chargers

A converter is like the device you use to charge your phone. only much larger
It converts 120vac to battery voltage... Just like the phone charger. To charge your phone.

IF you are not plugged in, then it has a very good reason for not working :) (No 120 volts to convert)
Unless you are running a generator.


And INVerter does the INVeres of a converter. Converts battery voltage back to 120vac for your Television or radio or electric razor.

An INVERTER/Charger combines both functions in one box. (I have one behind me as I type)

So now you know what those things do

As someone pointed out you need a mobile technician/mechanic to pay a call on you. Sounds like the Mechanic is who you need but it could be somethign an RV tech covers.

You should also sehedule an hour or two of an RV tech's time or perhaps a well informed neighbor RVer's time to show you around your rig. explain where the converter (or inverter/charger) is, if you have an inverter.. I've seen way too many trouble calls that were rather easily solved..

One day a man with a delux motor home contacted his next site neighbor (who had a vintage Blue Bird also a Delux) and he came and fetched me.. Tripped circuit breaker on his inverter. he did not even know he had an inverter.
Thanks for the information, i do have an Inverter, above the passenger seat, but i also have a Converter under my fridge, next to my fuse panel, inside a cabinet..but i only use the Inverter when im plugged into an outside source, correct? As for that Converter, i dont know....you have explained it very well, i just need to apply what your saying to grasp it and how it works or doesnt work and how those effect the rest of the rv operations should a system fail as in my batteries... thank you, i appreciate you taking this time!
 
I was thinking the same and that thread is here, which makes the electrical side suspect, especially if it will not crank. The 460 went to fuel injection in 1988 so a fuel pump could cause the shutdown, but it would not prevent the starter from turning the engine over. That same thing would be true if the electronics module or coil were to fail.

Since the posts were made yesterday, I would assume that she has been towed to a shop by now so hopefully she will come back and update us.
Thank you, ive updated this thread and its just an ongoing issue, you all are so helpful, thank you, i read everybodies replies, and ill learn this and you all are guiding me and teaching me, so please keep the advice coming, it ALL helps me!
 
What happened?
My experience with Ford 460 is fuel pump, filter, fuel pump relay.
Hope you wound up OK....
Thank you so much, i had it towed the next day bcuz it quit on a sunday of all days, so AAA came out monday morning early, and i want to thank those who rescue us stranded in such a dangerous place, the side of a hwy is not an easy or safe job to say the least, we are fortunate for you courageous people, i appreciate your sacrifices for our safety and your help!!
 
Just to add a bit more info. Your house battery feeds your interior lights with DC (battery type) electricity. Unless recharged, your house batteries will eventually be fully discharged. When you plug your RV into an electric pedestal that electricity is AC current. The AC electricity runs your microwave, air conditioner, TV and other AC appliances. Your converter is actually a converter-charger and only works when your RV is plugged into AC electricity. The converter-charger does 2 things: (1) charges the house batteries and (2) converts the AC current into DC (battery type) electricity to run your lights and stove vent fan.

There are a couple of other DC powered items which is the power boards for your refrigerator and furnace. So even if you don't use your interior lights or stove fan, your refrigerator and furnace will continue to use DC (battery) current and eventually fully discharge your batteries.

The issue of your house batteries discharging to be dead is unlikely to be related to your engine problems unless the engine battery and house battery are improperly installed. I hope this info is useful.
 
it died on the road like that, the alternator is likely not working properly and the chassis battery got discharged as well.
Yes, and the big question here is why the engine died leaving her stuck. IMO, until that is figured out, we should not be adding to the confusion by mentioning things that will NOT kill an engine.

AFAIK, in any RV you can throw the house battery, converter, inverter into the ocean and it will still run perfectly normal. No way will any of that stuff kill an engine. Even a bad engine battery will not kill an engine if the alternator is working normally.

So what are we missing here? Or is it me who is missing something?

And does that rig have a voltmeter gauge? Or an ammeter? A voltmeter gauge should tell you all you need to know if your engine is about ready to die from ignition voltage getting too low to run the engine. In the case of an ammeter, it will show that you're not charging. Either way you're getting info. in advance that something is wrong and the engine can die anytime soon, depending on when the battery started discharging.

Understand what is normal on your gauges and look at them every so often for issues. Often there is an advance warning as it is still running perfectly for the next 30 minutes or so, giving you time to safely stop at a safe area. Especially true with battery charging issues.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
This is where diagnostic tools come in handy, since we are suspecting electrical issues, I might suggest buying a cheap DC volt meter that plugs into the 12V socket near the dashboard. Here is a USB charger with a battery volt meter built in for under $10 https://www.amazon.com/aceyoon-Charger-Charging-Display-Compatible/dp/B07YXXBJ6W/

The first step after getting it is to confirm that the socket is connected to the engine starting battery, the easiest way to do this is to turn the key on, but don't start the engine, at this point it should read around 12.8V if the battery is fully charged, while you are cranking the engine this voltage should sag down, then once the engine is running you should see the alternator charging at around 14.2V If you don't see the voltage sag while the engine cranks then it is likely that the 12V socket is wired to the house batteries, not the engine starting battery.
 
but i only use the Inverter when im plugged into an outside source, correct?
Actually that would be the CONverter, which takes the outside source and charges the batteries, in addition to providing lights and such. The INVerter is for when you are NOT plugged in, and it provides household (AC) type electricity to charge your phone, or to run a TV, microwave, etc. though it needs a lot of battery (and a large inverter) to run a microwave.
 
And leaving the INverter on for an extended period can drain your batteries in a few days. Most 120 volt appliances don't fully turn off, they draw some power all the time to run their control boards and light up the display, respond to a remote control, etc. Plus the overhead needed to run the inverter itself. The only way to eliminate these phantom draws is to turn off the inverter when you're not actually using it.
 
Who can tell me EXACTLY the batteries i need for this 1990 fleetwood southwind Ford 460 engine? It has 3 batteries now that i slow charged ALL day, all read above number 12 on the meter, one is above 13. When i first bought this, she had one much larger battery than other 2. I had to replace ALL 3 due to dead and exploded at Autozone as they tried to fast charge and exploded. Anyways, the prior owner replaced with 3 of same size and when questioned about the larger battery, just said that these that i got were the correct sized batteries. So, who can PLEASE tell me what size and voltage and even brand type of batteries should i get, "MARINE", "DEEP CYCLE", 6V OR 12V, PARALLEL OR SERIES WIRED, i need to know what batteries to get, then hire the right person to install correctly and clean.... thanks everyone!
 
Changing the batteries will not help for very long, if you have something killing them. In general terms you will likely have one engine starting battery, and house bank of a pair of deep cycle batteries, these can either be a pair of 12V deep cycles wired in parallel or a pair of 6V deep cycle batteries wired in series. Some people buy marine dual use batteries for the house bank as they are cheaper than true deep cycle batteries, though they do not hold up as long. If you want true deep cycle batteries, you have to shop carefully as many marine dual use batteries may be labeled as deep cycle. If a battery has a CCA or MCA rating on the label chances are it is a starting battery or a marine dual use battery and not a true deep cycle. A true deep cycle battery will tend to have ratings listed in Amp Hours at a given rate, listed as Ah, and may also be marked in Reserve Capacity which is the number of minutes the battery can provide power at a constant 25 amp current draw rate.

There is no specific right answer if you are asking for a model, other than what will fit and provide enough cranking amps for the engine starting battery, or enough house bank capacity for your needs.

However as I said above blindly replacing batteries without knowing what is killing them is not a long term solution.
 
As far as it dyeing on the road. I'd look at the distributor. There is a gray module on the side (ignition module) that use to cause problems with random dyeing. It gets hot and fails. Could be fuel pump, my guess is ignition circuit.

Batteries. As mentioned, only one starts and runs the beast. I'd separate that from the house batteries, 100% and get it running first, then figure out drainage issues.
 
I never did see any pictures from the OP to help you guys with all your guesses.

I'd like to see a picture of the whole camper and then some pics of the problems.
 
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