Installing Outdoor Speakers, new wiring run

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Brewmstr88

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Sep 4, 2020
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Northern Utah
While I am not new to running wiring, low-voltage or electrical. I worked for a major AV Company for 6 years and ran miles of wires for AV systems of all types in homes. I am new to the RVing life and the structure and processes involved. As a disclaimer, I do have the common sense not to blast my speakers for the entire area to hear. I have a 2006 Four Winds Express Lite 24r travel trailer. It has an existing Stereo system, with 3 speaker zones, 2 used from factory. I plan on replacing that in the future, but I digress. I want to add 2 130 Watt 5.25" speakers outside for music while boondocking or quiet listening (< 50dB) while hanging out under the awning. My goal is to run 12AWG speaker wire from the stereo's 3rd speaker zone to 1 or 2 outdoor speakers. If you are unfamiliar with the model, it has an arched walk-on roof with ducted AC. The 2 existing speakers are located in the ceiling. I have attached a floorplan with indicators. (Blue is the Stereo unit. In the OHC butted to the ceiling, the Red is the potential wall I will mount to, the Green is the AC System (unit and vents), and yellow are the existing speakers. I have never seen inside of a trailer roof nor cut into walls. I assume since it is a wall, that the outside are framed and insulated, and the interior walls are framed and hollow. The ceiling is my more pressing concern as I wan to avoid any obvious holes, I am OK with drilling in the interior ceiling inside of cabinets to access the roof gap. So my question is, how simple is it to fish wiring through the roof gap and how would I transition to the wall since there is not the obvious 3.5" gap in the head stud of the wall nor is it accessible from an "Attic" and the it isn't gypsum board that can be patched after making an access hole. Any help would be great, Thank you. Will add interior photos if requested.
 

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Wires? You don't need no stinkin' wires:

https://www.amazon.com/DOSS-Wireless-Bluetooth-Portable-Speaker/dp/B01CQOV3YO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=wireless+speakers&qid=1599237463&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1SJW9CH59LQ7Z&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyODhZUDJJNkpKVlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NTA5MTFTUlpMMlpKOExPWlgmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDYxNDM2MjNITVBSRTNQVlU4UEsmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 
I'm with Tom. I always recommend hard-wiring backup cameras, because wireless video signals are very susceptible to interference, but wireless audio signals are much less susceptible. I still think it's best to hard-wire speakers, but it can be a giant PITA to run wires in an RV, as you're discovering. Some are worse than others. There are several good blue tooth speakers available that make installation oh so much easier, and some are powered by 12 volts.

Kev
 
Thank you both for that. Haha  :D

The problem is that we run several things through this stereo that does not have Bluetooth capabilities, so wireless is unfortunately not an option until we get a new stereo. Also we have done the Wireless option on our last trailer and it was a nightmare with having to charge them and taking up storage space, etc. I have explored it and a wired option is the best option to suit our needs, i just need to get an understanding of a "typical" construction of the arched roofs are so i can plan on how to install the wiring.

Thank you again for that option though

EDIT: The Several things we run are CD's, the radio since we usually go where cell service is non-existent, and some older analog devices, non of which have Bluetooth. But Still thank you for the options. If anybody has experience with stock curved roofs on any travel trailer. I am experienced enough to work around the differences in structure so long as i have a base idea of the construction of it. I don't want to cut into the ceiling just to find out what it looks like I want to minimize damage.
 
I think this answer in a big way depends on familiarity with that trailer and how it's built....which i don't have.

and kinda depends if the stereo amp head has easier access up or down.  I'd probably focus on chasing the existing wires that are there now and see which direction they go.....

My RV has a "Crown Mold" for the lack of a better word.  It's just a thin paneling of whatever sort covered to match the walls, maybe 3-4 inches wide and stuck up in the corner between the wall and ceiling, and the factory routed some wiring through some of that.

Otherwise, perhaps dropping down and under the chassis, then mount your speakers to the skirt wall...the part of the wall that extends down below the floor....or perhaps better, in a storage locker on that side.

But if it were me...I'd get a little echo tap speaker (do they even still make them?) or a plain old echo...but of course I don't know what your "other things" that you hope to feed through them are.....
 
Kind of a radical idea, but I would probably go up the refrigerator vent and across the roof in the plastic channel you can get at Lowes or HD.  On a previous RV I did this for antenna wires  (center mounted satellite antenna.) You can then use the hull penetration caps that protect the cables at the holes for the penentrations (likely will come out at a cabinet).

Ernie
 

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