Inverter install

[Bobtop46]

I have a Dometic 2652 that is dying, yellow powder in the access compartment.  This fridge doesn't have many replacement options.  I have decided to add a Samsung RF18 in its place.  My rig has a good converter that works fine.  I plan to add a Xantrax 2000W inverter.  I currently have 2 Trojan T-105s and will be adding 2 more.  This is my proposed wiring diagram.  Will this work?  One half will go to the fridge and other small load outlets (laptops/phones).  The other half will go to the entertainment center (Led TV, Dish, receiver).  The (2) relays are Xantrax and designed to work with the Prosine SW to cut off inverter power when AC is detected.  My plan is to lift wire from 15A breaker and connect to the load end of relay, connect the AC input to the relay - to the breaker to sense/supply AC. Things that will NOT be connected to the inverter are: Water heater, both Air conditioners, and microwave.  When not plugged in I will run the generator to power those items.

  This system should:
Charge batteries while plugged in thru converter.
Charge batteries when generator is running thru converter.
Charge batteries when going down the road via W22 alternator.
Not require inverter, while RV is plugged in, to power fridge.
Run fridge off AC while generator is running.
Run fridge off inverter while going down the road, off batteries. 

  Possible changes:
Connect: positive wires from battery, to existing system,  and to inverter, to a lug bus bar for future expansion of solar from charge controller. Seems like the positive post on battery is getting very crowded.

Please comments on anything I missed, screwed up, or recommendations are all welcome.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Presumably the Xantex used in this installation is a combo inverter/converter/charger? And has its own internal transfer switch?  Most Xantrex models are both of these things, but not all.

 

[Heli_av8tor]

It would help to know which model Xantrex you plan to use.

My Xantrex Freedom 2000 XC has a built in transfer switch that Gary mentions. The loads you want to power with the inverter need to be separated from the main breaker box and put into a subpanel. (I opted to modify my breaker box into a combination main panel and subpanel in to same housing. Search my posts to see how I did this. This may not be possible on your box.)

In this instance (built-in transfer switch) the two 15 amp relays you show are not needed.

Also, you need to move the lead marked "To Chassis Ground", currently connected to the batt neg to the other side of the Shunt. The way you have shown will only monitor the current going or coming from the inverter / charger.

Tom

 

[Bobtop46]

Thank guys for the help.

I have it planned for a Xantrax Prowatt SW 2000 (not Prosine, typo). I will look at others with built in relays.

Gary, no I'm not planning on a inverter/charger.  The built in converter is working fine and is of 2007 vintage. 

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If the other converter/charger handles the batteries, that's OK. You didn't show it in the DC side of the photo, so I asked.

It is crucial that the inverter never puts power into a circuit that is also supplied by shore power or genset. The two 120vac sources will be out of frequency sync and severe damage will result.  If the inverter has an auto-transfer switch, it can take external 120vac and pass it though to the load center without damage, but if not, it will be inverting. Without the transfer switching, the diagram you show would have to have the fridge circuit isolated from the load center bus and the fridge would always run via inverter. Whether shore power is active or not. That's not awful as long as the converter is continuously charging the batteries.

I'm co-author of an article on DIYRV.com that shows methods of hooking up a standalone inverter in an RV. It may help with some of the wiring concerns.
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-inverter-install-diy/

 

[Caca]

A transfer switch to change from shore power to inverter power will do the job, some inverters have these built in and are automatic, if they sense voltage from shore power it automatically feeds from there and takes the invertor out of the circuit. The correct type of switch for this application should be a "break before make" this will prevent back feeding.

 

[Rene T]

A transfer switch to change from shore power to inverter power will do the job, some inverters have these built in and are automatic, if they sense voltage from shore power it automatically feeds from there and takes the invertor out of the circuit. The correct type of switch for this application should be a "break before make" this will prevent back feeding.

This is what I use and it works great:

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/inline-transfer-relay.aspx

 

[Bobtop46]

Thanks Rene, I used two of those exact ones.

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