Komfort Travel Trailer Galley Fuse Blowing

[Michael Folks]

Hey there

We have a 2010 29.5 ft Komfort resort travel trailer and ever since we got it                                                                                                           
the galley/hot water heater fuse blows randomly. At first you could flip it and it would stay on for awhile and only blow once in awhile but now it blows almost immediately after you flip the fuse. What is weird is that we still have hot water even though it says it is tied in with that fuse. We have no idea what could be causing this. When looking at the manuals it seems that it is supposed to have a 20 amp fuse but everything is only 15, dont know if this could effect anything.


Anyway does anybody have any ideas of what could cause this or what to check to at least knock some things out that we know is not causing it to blow?

thanks all!

 

[boatbuilder]

It could be several things.
1. If it is supposed to be a 20 amp fuse and you only have a 15 amp fuse in place, the system could be ok and the fuse is wrong.
2. You say you still have hot water. If you are always on shore power your water heater may be working off of 120V power and the fuse is most likely for the 12V circuit that controls the gas side of the water heater.  If this is the case you probably have an issue with the 12V sie.

I would start by installing the correct fuse and go from there.

 

[Michael Folks]

I completely screwed up and had fuse stuck in my head, it is actually the breaker that keeps tripping and not the fuse. No problems with the fuses.


Sorry about that, does that change anything?

 

[boatbuilder]

Yes it changes things but it makes them easier.  The first thing I would check is the element.  I had the same issue with my TT when I bought it and thats all it was.  Cost me about $15 at Ace hardware.  I took the leads off the element and taped them off and turned on the breaker and it did not blow so I knew it was the element and not the thermostat. 
Hope this helps.

 

[Michael Folks]

I'm confused, the element being what? The water heater?

Thanks, with a little more information well try that, appreciate it!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The electric heat element is in the water heater. It could be shorting out, but that problem is usually solid rather than intermittent. It's possible, but I don't think it likely to be the cause of the symptoms you describe.

If that circuit breaker serves the water heater and other galley appliances and outlets, the "random" tripping is probably just a result of the accumulated load on the circuit. With only 15 amps to share among ALL the galley needs, you are going to run into the 15A limit. The water heater uses about 8 amps when its thermostat cycles on, so if you happen to be using other galley appliances (coffee maker, microwave, etc) when that happens, chances are the total will exceed 15A and the breaker will trip (as it should).  20A would be a more reasonable combined total for that sort of circuit.

 

[Alfa38User]

You did not give us the make and model of the water heater. (They are usually Atwood or  Suburban brands). With that information we could possible suggest another method of operating as well. For example, you may be able to operate the WH on propane alone and turn off the electric element until the problem is solved or you are able to ascertain what the exact problem is, such as, an improperly  sized breaker, defective element etc.... 

 

[Michael Folks]

thanks a lot. We will try switching to a 20A breaker tomorrow.

Just to sum this up, everything seems to be working when the breaker is tripped. When it is reset, a "pop" comes from in the cabinet area [looking through a removed drawer, I see the water heater] All outlets are on a separate
breaker and they all work. This has happened since new, just got worse with time.

Both the owners manual and chart next to the breakers and fuse panel, state and show that a 20 amp, not 15 as installed. I have always wondered if this trailer was built on a Friday afternoon. My only attempt to get  help from Komfort on another problem was to be referred back to the selling dealer. They did not want to help me solve the problem unless I towed the trailer 200 miles back to them. 

happy Holidays!

 

[Michael Folks]

You did not give us the make and model of the water heater. (They are usually Atwood or  Suburban brands). With that information we could possible suggest another method of operating as well. For example, you may be able to operate the WH on propane alone and turn off the electric element until the problem is solved or you are able to ascertain what the exact problem is, such as, an improperly  sized breaker, defective element etc....

Actually we have a picture and the model number is SW4D and it is Atwood

 

[Alfa38User]

even though it says it is tied in with that fuse.

  What says?? I'll bet the label is incorrect  but it may be a standard label used by Komfort in all models of trailers.

Some of their models seem to use only a gas fired water heater. The water heater model number you show appears to be a Suburban and is gas fired only and this would explain why you continue to have hot water. (The WH will also use 12V battery power though but only for the control board). The pop you heard may be the gas being fired up and not related to the C/B at all. You should also find a metal door on the outside of the trailer through which you will get a better idea of what you have rather than observing it through a drawer opening!!

http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/products/water/specs.php

Not sure where we are going here as it sure looks like the water heater does not use 120 Volts. This not to say the  15A circuit breaker should not be changed out but its frequent blowing is not related to that model of water heater!!! Perhaps the trailers with gas only water heaters only require a 15 amp breaker.... and, more importantly, the wiring installed may only be adequate enough for a 15a breaker and not a 20a.

The more often circuit breakers blow, they weaken and are more apt to blow more frequently as time goes on.... Once it has blown again, it would be wise to determine exactly what no longer works for future information and not rely on what seems to be a generic label....

By any chance would it be a circuit breaker with the GFI built in ?? Some trailers are like that whereas other models use a GFI equipped plug to service the counter tops, the outside plug and sometimes other plugs may be tied in too.

Good luck!!!

 

[Lou Schneider]

thanks a lot. We will try switching to a 20A breaker tomorrow.

Don't - the circuit breaker size is determined by the size of the wire in the circuit.  It's purpose is to interrupt the current flow before it gets large enough to overheat the wires.

You can't install a larger breaker on a circuit unless the wires are large enough to handle the extra current.

Circuit breakers weaken after they trip a couple of times, then they trip at less than their rated current.  If you suspect this is happening you could replace the breaker with a new 15 amp unit, not a 20 amp.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It's a 4 gallon heater.  You have hot water for quite some time after power is lost - the water in the tank stays quite hot if not used heavily.



Edit: Removed an incorrect statement - hopefully before too many people noticed!

 

[Michael Folks]

ok we are here at the trailer now, we have not changed anything. if we do anything it will be replacing the 15A breaker.


so what are some things that we can check to make some more progress?


We always have hot water. The only item on this breaker appears to be the hot water heater. The breaker trips, POW, as soon as it is reset. We also have hot water from the cold supply when it first turned on, very hot!
What might be causing this?

 

[Alfa38User]

Then you had better check the make and model of the WH before jumping as the make and model you quoted originally does not exist. The model number you quoted does correspond to a Suburban gas only model.... The Suburbans have a model number on a sticker visible from the outside of the trailer and behind the easily removable metal door in front of it. A gas only WH does not use 120V and thus cannot blow a 15 amp C/B. Atwoods, I expect, would have a similar sticker.

By all means change out the c/b but for a 15 amp not a 20 as was originally proposed unless it turns out that you do have a WH model that does use 120V but..... with the inconsistencies found here, it bears checking out further before doing anything drastic.....

 

[Michael Folks]

replaced 15A C/B with new one and it still pops so thats not the problem!

 

[Lou Schneider]

You most likely have a shorted electric heating element in the water heater and it's drawing too much current.