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(Chip)

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Posts
110
Location
Grass Lake , Michigan
My TT had an untimely death from a tree, so we are looking for a new rv. I would like a diesel pusher, so I can drag my jeep around behind it. I have found a few older Newmars for sale within a few hours from me. Anything to watch out for other than tire age? The one I want is a 2002 Dutch Air and Has a 330 Cat in it. May go look at it this weekend. Thanks!
 
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Any signs of roof leaks. Check the floor for soft spots.
Make sure everything works.
Getting it inspected would be a real plus unless you are feel you can inspect it thoroughly. The house side and the chassis side.
 
I am pretty confident on inspecting it. I started doing maintenance on diesel trucks at 14. I now work as a plumber/ boiler tech. I have had rvs for 10 + years. I know to check all the coach for operation. Planned on taking my thermometer and checking fridge and AC. I see there are a few that don't care for the 3126b Cat though.
 
Asking if there's anything to look out for other than tire age doesn't exactly exude confidence in one's ability to inspect a 22 year old MH (a 2002 house is likely built on a 2001 chassis). I can think of a few dozen things without much effort. A MH and a TT may both be RV's but otherwise they're apples and oranges. If you like what you see on your initial walk thru, you'd need to either familiarize yourself throughly with the operation of any and everything in that particular MH without assuming anything or get someone who already is, attend the inspection and take notes.
 
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Nice checklist Dan!

OP I would check out a Newmar Forum and ask your question there. Pretty sure you'll get some insightful answers from folks that own or have owned the model you are interested in. I did this when I bought my prior gas rig, a Georgetown (Forest River) and there were some key issues (new hydraulic lines one major item) I mandated to be taken care of by the dealer before I would sign on the dotted line.
 
There are a zillion things to check - see the RV Checklists in the RESOURCES section of this site. The biggies, though, are any evidence of water leaks (current or old), tire age & condition, and battery(s) condition. And the general state of maintenance, both chassis and body.

Many here will say to run away from any sign of a water leak, but in my opinion those just mean you need to take a closer look. Most older Rvs have had a leak or two in their careers, and they are seldom a major issue if attended to promptly. But you need to verify that there is no severe damage.
 
Gary, I agree, the problem is few people have the ability to take that closer look, even professional RV inspectors have a hard time telling how extensive the rot will be until they tear into it.
 
Not sure any seller is going to allow a buyer or inspector to tear into the walls, ceiling or the subfloor for a closer look. I know I wouldn’t.
 
Asking if there's anything to look out for other than tire age doesn't exactly exude confidence in one's ability to inspect a 22 year old MH (a 2002 house is likely built on a 2001 chassis). I can think of a few dozen things without much effort. A MH and a TT may both be RV's but otherwise they're apples and oranges. If you like what you see on your initial walk thru, you'd need to either familiarize yourself throughly with the operation of any and everything in that particular MH without assuming anything or get someone who already is, attend the inspection and take notes.
I was already aware of most things. I see things others don't. Looked at 2 today. 1st one was beat to death! Religious family removed all electronics. 5 major leaks, 4 soft spots. Stuck a screw driver through the floor in 2 places , completely rotted. Shower skylight had 2 inches of standing water in it. 2nd one had a lot of issues. The worst was that, they move to Michigan from south Carolina and never winterized it....... I could of fixed that one, but she wouldn't have liked my offer!
 
About the only thing I can add is to take samples of engine oil and coolant, + Allson transmission fluid, and send to a lab for analysis to get a "view" of the internals. The CAT engine is reliable and long-lived with proper maintenance. They are slightly more expensive to repair than Cummins, if they ever break.
 
How do people buy quarter million dollar rvs and treat them like that? Called another guy last night. His is at a freightliner dealer . It will not start and he said he hasn't changed the fuel filter, or drained the water filter in the 7 years he has owned it.
 
I could of fixed that one, but she wouldn't have liked my offer!
I know you have the skill but don't get tempted into this trap.

In the boating (and classic car) world we have a saying, "Do you want to go sailing or do you want to fix sailboats?"

I sailed my boat for about 5 years and then decided to do a full retrofit including new cabinetry etc. It took me 2 years and I almost gave up a couple of times.

There are a lot of boats, RVs and classic cars gathering dust and rust after well intentioned starts to a refit.
 
Not sure any seller is going to allow a buyer or inspector to tear into the walls, ceiling or the subfloor for a closer look. I know I wouldn’t.
Did I say anything about tearing into the structure?
the problem is few people have the ability to take that closer look, even professional RV inspectors have a hard time telling how extensive the rot will be until they tear into it.
Yes, there is a degree of risk, which needs to be reflected in the selling price. And to a certain extent, the degree of that risk depends on the buyer's comfort level with it. If the buyer feels confident he could cope with a potential problem, the fear is less. Conversely, if the buyer would be gobsmacked if something turned out to be severe, he should probably avoid it altogether.

I'll also note that pro RV inspectors aren't necessarily good at evaluating risk. Identifying conditions that are out-of-the-norm isn't the same as assessing the time/effort/cost of repair.
 
I know you have the skill but don't get tempted into this trap.

In the boating (and classic car) world we have a saying, "Do you want to go sailing or do you want to fix sailboats?"

I sailed my boat for about 5 years and then decided to do a full retrofit including new cabinetry etc. It took me 2 years and I almost gave up a couple of times.

There are a lot of boats, RVs and classic cars gathering dust and rust after well intentioned starts to a refit.
My brother in law has a 68 firebird... 13 years ago he bought it running and driving. 3 months after he bought it he stripped it down to change the interior and it was started for the first time 2 months ago. Trust me I understand. I currently have a jeep I bought as a bare shell that someone had done all the body work to but never reassembled. I am 5 months into it and I should have it running by Christmas I hope!
 
Did I say anything about tearing into the structure?

Yes, there is a degree of risk, which needs to be reflected in the selling price. And to a certain extent, the degree of that risk depends on the buyer's comfort level with it. If the buyer feels confident he could cope with a potential problem, the fear is less. Conversely, if the buyer would be gobsmacked if something turned out to be severe, he should probably avoid it altogether.

I'll also note that pro RV inspectors aren't necessarily good at evaluating risk. Identifying conditions that are out-of-the-norm isn't the same as assessing the time/effort/cost of repair.
Did I say you did?
 
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Never said that....... I know a lot of things, but I am not even close to the smartest person in the room. I came here as a sounding board for opinions. I honestly appreciate them and am taking them to heart. Especially yours! I only posted part of my abilities to show I am not the average Diy er.
 
I only posted part of my abilities to show I am not the average Diy er.
You probably aren't but you want to take care that it doesn't get you in over your head. Most of us learn a lot the hard way. The issue here is mostly what it is worth to you and how much time and money are you willing to spend in order to be able to use it. RV structures are unique and most of the design gives no consideration to a need to repair it. An example of that was in our last class A, there was a coffee maker that mounted under the cabinet in the kitchen. When the coffee maker needed to be replaced, I discovered that it had been mounted during cabinet construction and there was no access to the heads of the mounting screws so I had to partially dismantle the cabinet to remove it for replacement. That sort of thing is very common with RVs and even more so for repairs of electrical or plumbing.
 
You probably aren't but you want to take care that it doesn't get you in over your head. Most of us learn a lot the hard way. The issue here is mostly what it is worth to you and how much time and money are you willing to spend in order to be able to use it. RV structures are unique and most of the design gives no consideration to a need to repair it. An example of that was in our last class A, there was a coffee maker that mounted under the cabinet in the kitchen. When the coffee maker needed to be replaced, I discovered that it had been mounted during cabinet construction and there was no access to the heads of the mounting screws so I had to partially dismantle the cabinet to remove it for replacement. That sort of thing is very common with RVs and even more so for repairs of electrical or plumbing.
Thanks for being a big help with this! I am not going to buy it. If they want to drop it off to me for free then I might consider it. I am hard headed and frugal, and I have on more than one occasion bitten off more than I can chew!
 
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