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Merc123

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Nov 7, 2015
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Hey all. I'm nee here and I bought a 2002 Timberlodge 25' and should be delivered in a few days.  It has some recent and old water intrusion and there is a noticeable dip in the roof (rotted truss?) I plan to open up and fix. i plan to strip the caulking from everything and eternabond it instead.

This is my first fifth wheel and camper. They do have the gooseneck adapter i plan to remove and have a B&W Turnover on the way and will be looking for a used companion hitch for it.  I've pulled 24' bumper pull car haulers (9k) and a 70s model 30' Holiday Rambler TT so I'm comfortable with towing (F350 SRW 7.3L).  I'm anxious to see how well this 5er pulls to my bumper pulls

I've read the library and youtubed a bunch and the thing I'm most unsure about is leveling. We used the jacks to level the rambler. What's the best way?  I was looking at stacked blocks but what size would
Be ideal?  I saw it says between 12-16" long and I'm assuming I will need to pyramid them?

I have plenty more questions about appliances but that can wait until later when I have the camper at home and I get to really figure everything out.
 
Not sure whether you're asking about leveling left-right or front-back.  Before I move into a new site, I get out and walk the area near the service posts.  I then back my 5th (and previous TT) into the site  and stop where I identified the best location.  I then check for left-right leveling need, pull the trailer forward and place either a 4' section of 2x6 board  or 5 or 6 tiles lengthwise in the tire track and let DW back the trailer (without touching the steering wheel) back over the board/tiles.  Check again for level - usually good.

Then, I offload the 5th (or TT) and adjust front-back with the landing gear.

The most difficult sites are the ones that different levels on all 4 corners.  Stabilizers can help a little but not much.  Sometimes, if site is really bad, try for a different site or just grin and sweat it out.

ps:  It's easier to move the trailer onto boards if the front edge is cut to 45 degrees.  You can pyramid tiles for more height but plan to allow an extra tile at front or back to put your chocks.  Don't put tiles on the boards because tiles most likely will slip on the board as trailer tires move on.
 
I have a few 2" X 8" boards about 18" long. They are just long enough to slide between the wheels. I'll put one there and another either in front of the front wheel or behind the rear wheel then drive onto them. If I need more height, I have a couple that are only about 10" long. They'll go on top of the bottom boards. I too cut the leading edge on a 45 degree angle. Also make sure they are wide enough to support the entire width of the tire.
 
Old trailer with obvious water leaks?  Are you going to strip and repair all the rotten wood?  Have you thought about mold remediation before you move in?
 
TravlinOn said:
Not sure whether you're asking about leveling left-right or front-back.  Before I move into a new site, I get out and walk the area near the service posts.  I then back my 5th (and previous TT) into the site  and stop where I identified the best location.  I then check for left-right leveling need, pull the trailer forward and place either a 4' section of 2x6 board  or 5 or 6 tiles lengthwise in the tire track and let DW back the trailer (without touching the steering wheel) back over the board/tiles.  Check again for level - usually good.

Then, I offload the 5th (or TT) and adjust front-back with the landing gear.

The most difficult sites are the ones that different levels on all 4 corners.  Stabilizers can help a little but not much.  Sometimes, if site is really bad, try for a different site or just grin and sweat it out.

ps:  It's easier to move the trailer onto boards if the front edge is cut to 45 degrees.  You can pyramid tiles for more height but plan to allow an extra tile at front or back to put your chocks.  Don't put tiles on the boards because tiles most likely will slip on the board as trailer tires move on.
Click to expand...

Left to right is what I was meaning.  Thanks.
 
donn said:
Old trailer with obvious water leaks?  Are you going to strip and repair all the rotten wood?  Have you thought about mold remediation before you move in?
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
TravelOn is absolutely correct.

Use a 2 x wider than the tire  (2 x 6 or 2 x 8 ).  Measure the distance from the front of the front tire to the back of the back tire.  Cut two boards to this length or a little more.  Cut one end on a 45 deg angle.  Cut another (top) board 1 ? inches shorter, with the angled end.  When more height is needed, this goes on top of the first board.
 
Is there a safe way to jack up that side of the trailer and place boards under the tires that way?  Some places we hunt are really unven and backing up 20 times may get a little aggitating. I was reading you aren't supposed to jack up an RV so wasn't sure, especially considering how would you change a flat?
 
Merc123 said:
....I was reading you aren't supposed to jack up an RV so wasn't sure, especially considering how would you change a flat?
Click to expand...

You're not supposed to use the stabilizers to lift up the trailer side more than enough to give a solid foundation when walking around the trailer.  Too much can give a twist to the frame.  When changing a flat, if your trailer is lite enough for you to do so, then use a hydraulic lift of sufficient size with a good base underneath, and jack it up to a solid part of the frame close to the tire, and lift the trailer.  Don't jack to the axle and don't use a stabilizer for this.  Hope this helps.
 
Sorry didn't mean stabilizers. I meant like a bottle Jack under the frame near the axles. It's 6300 # pounds curb weight. I do have one of those ramps you can drive up on to change a tire with for my car hauler
 
Yes, you can use a jack under the trailer frame, preferable fairly near the axles. There would be no more stress there than what the axle/suspension already does.
 
I've been messing with boards for years and with my triple axle trailer, I have been carrying 2"x 6"x 8' boards and I'm tired of it.  I'm going to try these out next season: https://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx
 
Those Andersen levelers look neat but $160  :eek:

I'll just use blocks. 4" May also not be enough some of the places we camp.
 
Merc123 said:
Sorry didn't mean stabilizers. I meant like a bottle Jack under the frame near the axles. It's 6300 # pounds curb weight. I do have one of those ramps you can drive up on to change a tire with for my car hauler
Click to expand...

If you're going to jack it up just to put a board under the wheel, I would place a bottle jack under the axle. If you jack under the frame, you'll have to jack it up quite high in order to get a wheel off the ground.
 
Jacking in order to level?  Toooo much trouble! 

I simply back the 5th into the site to the place I think I want to end up.  I use a bubble level to see how level the trailer is from side to side and on which side I will need to place a board, or tiles, if anything.  I then place the board/tiles in a line close beside the trailer tires.  My DW then pulls the truck forward without touching the steering wheel until the trailer tires are forward of the line of board/tiles.  It easy for me to push the board/tiles over into the path of the trailer and then DW backs the truck without touching the steering wheel back onto the board/tiles.  

Easy.  If I check the bubble level and find I need more or less, then I just repeat the process and make adjustments.  The trailer is then where I want it and level.
 
What about using something like these?  Some times where we hunt at the ground isn't anywhere near perfect for leveling

http://amzn.to/1S9oG2E
 
Merc123 said:
What about using something like these?  Some times where we hunt at the ground isn't anywhere near perfect for leveling

http://amzn.to/1S9oG2E
Click to expand...

These are automotive ramps and wouldn't work very good for a RV. If you have tandem axles, you wouldn't be able to put one of these between the wheels because they are 3' long. Also, you would have to back all the way up to the top for it to be stable. It's around 11" to 13" high.  They also weigh almost 20#.  Not very practical IMHO.
 
I just push the auto level button.....then open a beer. On a hot day I can have my first beer down before the system beeps at me to signal it's finished.
Then I throw the lawn chairs out, and drink more beer.

Sorry....I'm useless.
 
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