Older Dodge parts/reinforcing roof?

[Morris]

I'm looking for a retailer in the socal area that i would be able to pick up engine parts from. I read a post earlier that referenced calling the dealer but not sure if that would work since my RV is 32 years old. Tried looking online at napa/shucks type of stores with no luck. Currently out to sea so i can't call them atm but plan to when i get home. I live in san diego and don't want to travel more then about 20 miles. I know that will limit my choices but gas is about to top $4/gallon so don't want to use it if i don't have to. I found JCWhitney but don't know the model trim code for the rv so can't really do much because they have 7 different type of MH for my year. as always any help will be appreciated.

 

[scottydl]

A retailer (i.e. new parts) will be tough to find for a 32yo vehicle.  What parts specifically are you looking for?  There's probably a "Dodge truck" enthusiasts group or catalog out there that could help you locate NOS parts for older vehicles.  Did you have a question about reinforcing your roof?  (It's in the subject line but I didn't see anything referenced in your post.)

 

[Morris]

I'm looking for a retailer in the socal area that i would be able to pick up engine parts from. I read a post earlier that referenced calling the dealer but not sure if that would work since my RV is 32 years old. Tried looking online at napa/shucks type of stores with no luck. Currently out to sea so i can't call them atm but plan to when i get home. I live in san diego and don't want to travel more then about 20 miles. I know that will limit my choices but gas is about to top $4/gallon so don't want to use it if i don't have to. I found JCWhitney but don't know the model trim code for the rv so can't really do much because they have 7 different type of MH for my year. as always any help will be appreciated.

Edit to above: Sorry was going to ask about reinforcing the room on the front half of the RV but was running out of internet time. I only get access for certain hours of the day. What I wanted to know is how I could reinforce the roof supports on the front portion. The half has the tar/gravel covering that you see on alot of buildings nowadays and is strong nough to hold 3 150-200lbs people (found that out when putting in a luggage compartment), but the front seems to bow even when stepping on the supports. Think the lumber for the supports might be going bad but don't have a clue on how to replace it. I am using the MH for fulltime living and the last thing I want is for the roof to collapse on me. Also need to keep it mostly liveable while fixing if possible.

The parts I am looking for are general maintenance parts such as filters, belts, spark plugs/wires and so forth. From what others have told me in an earlier post I believe that I at least partially clogged my fuel filter when I ran the AUX tank dry to get rid of older gas in it. Since then it has been sputtering like it is running out of gas. Also would the dodge dealership or dmv be able to tell me the specs of the MH from just the VIN#.

 

[Jeff]

The parts I am looking for are general maintenance parts such as filters, belts, spark plugs/wires and so forth. From what others have told me in an earlier post I believe that I at least partially clogged my fuel filter when I ran the AUX tank dry to get rid of older gas in it. Since then it has been sputtering like it is running out of gas. Also would the dodge dealership or dmv be able to tell me the specs of the MH from just the VIN#.

Have you tried NAPA for the filters, belts, plugs, rotors, caps, etc. They always managed to find what I needed on two Dodges, a GM P30, and a 460 Ford.

 

[Morris]

i tried thier online system but they can't do much for cause it doesn't list my MH but since i am back in port today i will be calling them all and see what the costs are. i plan to get a couple of everything, never know when something might go. was just wondering if you all knew any good sources for the harder to find parts in the so cal area or anywhere that would be able to ship them if needed. thanks for the imput.

 

[scottydl]

What you'll need to search/ask for (from ANY parts store) is not your specific motorhome, but the chassis that it's on.  For instance, if I say I have a "Thor Residency" to someone at a parts counter they'd look at me like I was speaking Greek.  If I tell them I need parts for a Ford 460 on a 1994 F-450 Super Duty chassis, then I have no problems.  So you should have much better luck finding parts if you ask about whatever Dodge truck came with the same engine/tranny that your motorhome has.  Finding that information out (if you don't have the chassis manufacturer's owners manual) is the next step.

 

[Morris]

any ideas on where i might be able to find that info. i have found the info on the engine but not sure what size it is since it has about info for 6 diffent engines on the sticker. all i really have to go on is the registration and the vin but not sure if i can get the info i need from a dealer/dmv.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Well, there won't be a lot of different 1976 Dodge motorhome chassis. Basically it will be the Dodge Ram 350 chassis (pick-up/van chassis) or a Dodge medium truck chassis, depending on the motorhome size (weight).

The original of the Dodge Motorhome was the Frank motorhome, later renamed DOdge as Dodge became heavily involved in the engineering. Later it evolved into the Travco motorhome and there is a Travco group on Yahoo Groups where you can get a lot of help with Dodge motorhome chassis questions.

If you Google Dodge Motorhome, you will get some leads and find some background info. Then go to the Yahoo Groups site (http://groups.yahoo.com/) and search on Travco and Dodge and you will find some more groups of folks with rigs similar to yours.

But please stay involved here too - we would love to hear your tales as you rehabilitate this vintage motorhome and get some enjoyment from it. And maybe you can assist the next Dodge owner once you become an expert!

 

[Jim Godward]

FWIW, there was a Dodge Travco in the Walmart parking lot as we passed on our way home today.  G

 

[Morris]

So far it has been a joy to drive/use. Kinda stuck both feet in if you know what I mean. Bought it to use full time for a couple months while I await transfer to a new base. Thanks for the info I will definately check those out as soon as I get home. The firewall here at work is a pain in the rear with alot of the sites I try to visit, Yahoo one of the major ones. Only problem I have had so far is sputtering after i drained the AUX tank but a new filter pixed that one. Have one minor annoyance of having to have the key in ACC in order for any of the lights inside to work. Fixed that with a bunch of tap lights and even found a few led light tripple sets for the hall/stove area. Those are the ones with 3 LED lights that swivel on them so I can aim one at the stove, one at the counter, and one at the sink. Im trying to find some comparable sized lights that will run off 110/120v so that I can use them without turning the rig on. Already living in it so will have to be careful with what I can pull out to run new wiring if it is needed. But I plan to keep you all updated on any info/parts sources I come across for those of us with older rigs.

 

[scottydl]

Have one minor annoyance of having to have the key in ACC in order for any of the lights inside to work.

Is this when you are connected to shore power?  Maybe that was a "feature" of some 70's models... kind of a master ON switch.  I wonder if it's actually draining your chassis (engine) with the key forward, if you're plugged in.  Even if so, you could keep a trickle charger attached to the battery as I do - my dash radio, jacks, LP detector, and steps all run off my chassis battery so it's a pain if I let it go dead while camping.  Those tap lights are okay but they will run through household batteries quick (except maybe the LED ones you mentioned).

 

[Morris]

went through and rewired some of the plugs today so that they would go to lights as well as the outlet. also added an inline fuse so i don't wind up blowing the whole unit. seems to be working fine for the florecent lights i picked up. will be watching them for the next few days to make sure they aren't getting to hot. thinking of just putting a rocker switch in by the door so i can turn them on/off from there. i think that would work better, also alot more convienent. None of the lights were hooked up to the shore power for some reason before this. maybe a previous owner pulled them for some reason. as for the tap lights i use rechargable batteries and they are all LED that way they las a bit longer and cost is down by not having to buy batteries all the time. Plan to eventually set up some solar battery banks and run the light off those and everything else off the house but not sure as of yet how i would go about that or where i would put the batteries. As for a trickle charger any suggestions. I have been looking at solar for that same reason, no cutout to keep the electronics from draining the cranking battery, and not sure what a good brand/voltage would be just to keep the cranking battery crankable.

 

[scottydl]

As for a trickle charger any suggestions.

Check out Batter Minder or Battery Tender.  Various brands, any automotive department or parts store.  I think I bought my 2-amp trickle charger at Wal-mart for $17.  I plug it in to the motorhome's exterior A/C outlet (when the rig is connected to shore power), and run an extension cord underneath the rig up to the engine compartment where I plug in the charger and connect it to the chassis battery with the supplied alligator clips.  I plan to eventually install an extra A/C outlet in the engine compartment itself for easier connectivity of the charger.

 

[Tom]

That's what I just started doing Scott. I had a spare Battery Minder in the garage, and ran an extension cord from one of the receptacles in the rear engine compartment to the battery bay. I'll find out tomorrow if it worked, since that will be the first time I'll have started the engine since hooking up the Battery Minder.

No reason it shouldn't work; I have Battery Minders on small boats and a car that don't get a lot of regular use.

 

[Morris]

i was thinking more along the lines of a solar charger. don't want to run the electric up to much since i will be moving out to the tucson area in a couple months and electric can get spendy fast. Only vehicle i have right now is the RV and plan to get an A to B car for back and forth to work but normally go to the store for food every couple of days. Don't have a very big fridge, but that comes with the territory. also don't want to have to fight with the battery if i ever put it in storage.

 

[scottydl]

Only problem with solar (from what I've read here anyway) is that the results are spotty and inconsistent.  You really never know how much power is coming from the solar panel(s), and can't really rely on it too much.  To really survive in an RV off of solar, you'd probably have to have the entire roof covered in gigantic panels and aimed perfectly to capture every bit of visible sunlight during the day.

I wouldn't think a 1.5-2 amp trickle charger would suck up the kilowatt-hours too quickly.  Maybe you could add a battery or two if you need the ability to "boondock" (dry camp) and keep things going for days at a time without being plugged in.

 

[Morris]

Picked up an adjustable charger yesterday. Today will be the first day using it. I can switch it from 2/4/6 amps and supplies the 2 amps when ever plugged in. also has a fault indicator if the clamps lose connection. Have it bungied next to the starting battery for now but plan to mount it in the cab by the drivers seat so i can adjust it without going outside but not sure where to right now. will include pics and step by step when i do.

 

[Jeff]

Morris:

Most 2/4/6 amp chargers are NOT three stage chargers and will continue pumping 14.7 volts into your batteries after they are charges which will boil them away. You might verify the one you purchased will reduce the voltage to a float value when the batteries are fully charges. I believe that is around 14.0-14.2 13.1-13.6 volts depending upon the temperature..

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Float charge is in the 13.1-13.6V range

 

[Jeff]

Float charge is in the 13.1-13.6V range

Gary:

You are right of course. I can't keep anything straight any more. I bought an old golf cart at Happy Trails and purchased a 36v Battery Minder to keep the batteries conditioned while we are gone this summer. The number I was remembering was 40.0volts for the six batteries.