Pex piping....do I need a regulator?

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This is the one I have.

View attachment 161470

I have a similar one on my drip system for my garden, not so much for protection but the drip spouts are calibrated for a certain pressure. I've never put a gauge on it or the RV but they give the appearance of doing something - the pressure seems less coming straight out of the hose judging by flow and strength.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
That would work for a low flow drip system.> But NOT for a 2 GPM shower.
 
I just got tired of ruining the gauges on those $40 actual regulators that have diaphragms and went back to the flow restrictor type like Mark pictured
What is available in the type that you and many of us have is much improved from what they were 20 or more years ago. The higher flow rate versions have become common place and they don't restrict the flow rate any more than the diaphragm types do if the passages are the same size or are larger diameter than your RV water lines. There is nothing to be gained by using a regulator that has a larger size than your water supply hose. Most of us use a 5/8" hose so you need similar sized regulator. If you use a 3/8" hose it will restrict the water flow rates but do nothing for the static water pressure. Using a 3/8" regulator will protect the RV from static pressure but it will also restrict the flow rates where a regulator with a 3/4" passage is more than adequate, regardless of design.
 
I have a pressure regulator but never use it. Why? Because I fill my fresh water tank and use my on-board water pump and pump from there. Never have a problem with pressure this way. I never leave the garden hose (shore ware) turned on and leave it. I tried that earlier in my RVing experience and had one garden hose swell up big as a blimp in 95 degree direct sun. I saw it just right before it exploded! After that, I never kept the garden hose connected again. I use it only to fill the fresh water tank.

We all do it different, but ... if YOU are going to stay connected .... then YES! You need a regulator at the shore water faucet.
 
Not sure if this piping was standard in '02, but some of it looks factory, especially what was under the mini-tub shower. Do I need to get a regulator if there's not one by the old HW heater?
Whether it's Pex or the older polybutyl tubing, it was originally pressure tested in 2002 when it was built. If I recall correctly, RVIA standards at the time called for a minimum test pressure of around 80 psi (though most manufacturers went higher). In any case, the type tubing material is irrelevant, especially after 20 years of use.

You don't NEED a regulator but it's a good idea if you travel and are exposed to many different water systems. Most placers will provide water at 35-65 psi, but at some point you may encounter one that is much higher, maybe 80-100psi. Then you will be glad you have a regulator. It should be placed where your hose attaches to the campsite water faucet (hose bib).

I always used a Watts "whole house" regulator (set to 65 psi) when we traveled nationwide, but during our last several years we traveled a regular circuit where we were familiar with the campgrounds and their water supply. I stopped hooking up the regulator.
 
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Since this one won't be going anywhere for a long time, I will find out the pressure standard for the water company and get one just in case.
 
As a side note, a long time ago, the owner of a plumbing shop told me that if you live in an area that has high water pressure, as we did in Cheyenne, WY, installing a pressure regulator would in time pay for it's self in things like repair and replacement of faucets and such. I did buy one and installed it and it did make a big difference.
 
I never use more than the minimum unless I forget to turn the water off to a tree I try and keep alive out front and it's not going to make the move. Good to know though!
 
I use a cheap regulator. I have a pressure gauge and the regulator does keep my pressure below 60 psi even when not using any water. I also have a hot water heater surge tank on the cold water side. This serves two purposes. One helps the water pump from cycling when on the fresh water tank. Second when connected to city water reduces the pressure caused by the hot water heater after a lot of hot water has been used and then no water use. Common problem even at your home if you have a pressure regulator.
I do have to replace the cheap regulator at times due to calcium deposits plugging up the works. I carry a spare for such events.
 
As a side note, a long time ago, the owner of a plumbing shop told me that if you live in an area that has high water pressure, as we did in Cheyenne, WY, installing a pressure regulator would in time pay for it's self in things like repair and replacement of faucets and such. I did buy one and installed it and it did make a big difference.
Even though all the plumbing in our house is sweat-fit copper pipe, I have a pressure regulator set to 50psi at the water main entrance. My 2 outside hydrants are not regulated, and they usually test at 110psi. That intake pressure really boosts my pressure washer output.
 
Wow !! quite a discussion!!!!
I dont trust those cheapo pressure regulators. I use a houshold adjustable diaphragm type regulator.. as I recall it cost about $40 at home depot. I Just attached a female hose fitting to it and connect it to my water filter with a quick connect. It keeps our pressure at 40 psi. Its cheap insurance against blown pipes and expensive repairs....
I seem to get better flow thru it than the cheap inline one that I tried before getting the diaphragm type..

Just my 2 cents
Safe happy travels and all the best
 

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