Re sealing rv corner moulding

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wyldraider

New member
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Posts
3
I have a leak problem with the left rear corner moulding on my 2006 Franklin Ranch Wagon fifth wheel. I plan on re sealing both sides in the rear of the RV. I'm considering doing the front also, after understanding the 12 years of winter & summer up here in Pennsylvania.
I was watching a video from a member here about using Seal-Tite corner sealer kit. Are there any members that would recommend this product, or would you recommend a different product ?
The Seal-Tite kit looks to be a good product for my issue. I'm looking for any different advice for re sealing the corner moulding, to where it meets the factory aluminum siding. Franklin seemed to cut the siding a bit short, with one part near the bottom that has a bad cut that makes it even shorter. That one cut mistake (near the bottom) can be hidden with the final caulking after all of the other steps that Seal-Tite corner sealing kit instructions show. Why the factories allow bad cuts like this to be installed on a $50k RV is beyond me  :mad: 
I did get a bit of water damage in the left rear corner inside the fiver, that i am having a hard time finding the matching paneling, which is like a light tan/peach color.
Any help would be appreciated. I just joined this forum, and I will be introducing myself through the new members forum thread.

Sincerely
Harold
 

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
76,141
Location
West Palm Beach, FL
I don't see anything unique or special about the Seal Tite Corner Kit. It's just caulk and tape, both of which are available from many sources.  I'm not familiar with the Seal Tite brand of tape, so maybe it has some nice characteristics for corner seams, e.g. stretchy and easy to conform to curves and angles.  Are you thinking that the tape will be valuable in bridging the gaps you described, as opposed to just filling them with caulk?


Lot's of good vertical seam caulks available, though, e.g. Geocel Proflex RV or 3M Body Seam Seal.
 

blw2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Posts
3,338
Location
Saint Johns, FL
I had a similar issue on my class C, where the skin was cut short...just simply no sealing surface area under that trim.  I'm honestly amazed it lasted as well as it did...

I'd hoped to find a source for wider trim but struck out.
I used eterna bond web seal tape, after sealing the open crack below using some eternabond double stick and some serious jury rigging.  The webseal tape I used is wider than the trim.  It's not meant for UV exposure but there are various ways it could be covered.  I felt like it was a pretty good seal in the end, then I had my roof sprayed by rvroof.com and they lapped over that corner for me really locking it all in.

Dicor makes a product just like the webseal...can't remember the name...but I do remember watching a youtube video describing a corner repair.  This isn't the vid I had found, but similar from the looks of it (I didn't watch this whole thing)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=366yEXwq86k
 

cerd

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2018
Posts
621
Location
MN
After damaging my corner moulding, I stopped and asked the dealer about some replacement moulding. He said they do have 1 inch moulding vs the standard 1/2 inch, but they prefer the short leg moulding because they can usually form it to curves just by screwing it in from the top and working their way down.

If you can reuse your trim, you can use a wood chisel to scrape the old putty off. Since I had a good 1/4 inch gap between my fiberglass panels, I gobbed it with silicone to make it squish out when the moulding went back on. Silicone is usually a no-no on RVs, but I wanted it to squeeze into the crack when the putty wouldn't have done that. Then I sealed the seams where the moulding met the fiberglass with Ultima elastomeric sealant from my local Menards. Ultima is made by Geocel and is about $5 a tube.
 
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