Recently purchased an old class C RV - How do I get hot water working?

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Also.. one thing I don't understand is why is the nozel for pouring out the contents of the heater on the top? Wouldn't it just pour out a small layer at the top and not the whole thing? Is that why each time it pours out for a few seconds and then stops?
 
I turned it to the left until it wouldn't turn anymore. It pours out for five seconds now. Do I have to wait a long time for it to fill up, and does it just fill up automatically?
ExplaIn in detail where it pours out for 5 seconds. A picture would also really help.
 
Also.. one thing I don't understand is why is the nozel for pouring out the contents of the heater on the top? Wouldn't it just pour out a small layer at the top and not the whole thing? Is that why each time it pours out for a few seconds and then stops?
You’ll have to explain in detail what you’re referring to when you use the word nozzle. We have no idea what that is. Again, a picture would really help. Try using the very first picture you posted showing the outside of the water heater.
 
It pours out for five seconds now. Do I have to wait a long time for it to fill up, and does it just fill up automatically?

Pours out from where?

The other answer is yes to both... the hot water tank will fill up automatically once the valves are set properly AND hooked up to a water source, but it takes a few minutes. You know it's full when you activate the release valve (top area of the hot water tank behind the exterior service panel) and water seeps out instead of just air. Then you can fire up the heater itself, and the water should be warm/hot within 10 (?) minutes. It doesn't take too long.
 
Okay. I took a picture. Too tired last night. Meant to say the upper pressure release valve. Last time I don't think I left it on for ten minutes. I didn't realize it takes that long to heat up the hot water tank. I need to make sure that this is working, because if I leave it on for ten minutes with it empty, it could explode.

What I'm stuck on was that someone said it should pour out for a few minutes. It only pours out for a few seconds, but that would make sense since the metal pressure release valve is on the top, which to me means that it's taking a top layer, but I could be wrong.
 

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With that lever straight up and the water is turned on, you should get wet because water will pour out of that valve continuously until you let the lever drop shutting off the water. It will act just like cutting a water hose in half while the water is turned on.
If it’s only flowing for a few seconds, something is wrong. Do not lite the heater.
There are no layers inside the tank. It is just one great big cavity. It could be 6 gallons or 10 gallons of water
 
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I think I know what you mean by "layer" and yes the top surface of the water level in the tank is what should come out of that valve your hand is on. As long as you hold the valve open, the water should keep coming, filling itself from the bottom and continuing out the top. That relief valve is on a spring mechanism and should snap closed pretty easily.
 
Trying to add a bit of clarity here. Water should only continue pouring out of the TPO valve if the water supply is turned on or the pump is running. Water won't come out if nothing is going in.
 
Trying to add a bit of clarity here. Water should only continue pouring out of the TPO valve if the water supply is turned on or the pump is running. Water won't come out if nothing is going in.
That’s what I said in post #20
 
Ah, okay. Maybe I misread before what was going on in post 20. Yes, I meant the top layer as in the release valve is located at the top, so should shoot out the top layer of water where it's located. Sounds like there's something pneumatic where it forces the water to the top from the bottom.

Now in regards to post 20. So, then.. I have to turn the water pump on while the hose from the cities water supply is unplugged? Should that trigger the hot water tank to fill up? I'll try it now and let you know what happens.

Cheers!
 
I'm confused when you say water supply turned on? Are you talking about being connected to the main water line, turning on a tap, or having the water pump on? I was directed to unfasten the hose from the main water supply, leave it be for a bit, and then pour it out, which should take a few minutes. When I am connected to the main water supply, water continuously runs out of the pressure release valve at the top
 
I turned it to the left until it wouldn't turn anymore. It pours out for five seconds now. Do I have to wait a long time for it to fill up, and does it just fill up automatically?
Once I start filling my tank I turn on the pump and turn on the hot water at the sink and wait for water to come out. It should take several minutes if your valves are set right.

My hot water tank holds 6 gallons so it takes a few minutes to fill and then it takes more time to fill the primary tank. For me, I hold about 46 gallons total.

That water weighs over 350 pounds but we boondock. Add three cases of water plus food and everything else and a motorcycle starts making more sense than our toad. Other than weight, we can off road to just about anywhere.
 

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Water supply = EITHER (1) city water connected and turned on, OR (2) fresh water tank full and water pump turned on. It refers to whichever method your entire rig is getting its main water input to hot water tank, faucets, toilet, and shower... (1) or (2).

If water is spilling out of the relief valve of the hot water tank, then your hot water tank is full. If that flow cannot be stopped by closing the valve, then it sound like the valve is faulty in some way.
 
Yes, I meant the top layer as in the release valve is located at the top, so should shoot out the top layer of water where it's located. Sounds like there's something pneumatic where it forces the water to the top from the bottom.
Hydraulic rather than pneumatic. The tank is pressurized by the force of incoming water. Pressure is transmitted equally throughout the water in the tank, so water gets forced out of the opening, which is about 2/3's of the way up toward the top. The opening is high up because hot water rises so the hottest water is nearer the top.
 
I think every one is confusing OP. 1. hook up hose to water inlet. 2. turn on hose water. 3. open the pressure relief valve until water pours out at same rate as hose. 4.After water comes out pressure relief valve at a constant rate with no air bursts close valve and turn on / light water heater. 5. After heater heats water it should turn off. 6. Once it has turned off. Try hot water at sink. If water is hot now you are good to go. If not the by-pass valve that you noted as just a stem is not turned on or turned in the correct direction. (Should be on when turned in the counter clockwise direction like a faucet Or you have not found the by-pass valve. Forget about water in top part of tank, the tank is just that a hollow tank, no baffles or dividers. Always open the pressure relief valve or a hot water faucet before you light or turn on the hot water heater to be sure all air is out of the tank to prevent damaging the tank. Hopes this helps.
 
I tend to analyze things too much, so that's probably what went wrong. Thanks for the info before the last post from Garyi on the technical specifications.

I just noticed that when I have unplugged from the main city water and turn on the water pump, I get water out of the pressure release valve for a long period of time now. That's what I was wondering from before, why there was water coming out of it when it was connected to the main.

Okay, I'll try your five point instructions, and get back to everyone if it works. I'm terrifed of the hot water tank blowing up.

Thanks :)
 
Interesting. I run the water heater. The water that comes out of the taps now is lukewarm versus freezing cold. The flame turns off after about ten minutes. If I try to light it again on pilot (which works) and then turn the lever to on to get it even hotter, the flame won't activate.

There's a lever above the pilot. I turn it all the way to the right for hottest, right?

Any more ideas? If not, I'll settle on lukewarm water.
 
I'm not sure on the lever, whether that's for temperature adjustment or not. Got a photo?

There could still be a blend valve somewhere, part of the bypass system that we've discussed. If that blend/bypass valve isn't closed all the way during hot water use, it'll let cold water mix in and create lukewarm. I had that issue once on my old motorhome.

The flame burning for 10 minutes (typical heating timeframe) and then shutting off + refusing to re-light is consistent with the tank water already being hot enough.
 
Do you have a outside shower? If you do, make sure the water is shut off at the shower faucets and not at the shower head. Same with the inside shower.
 
Hey guys. Hot water is working now. What I found out, after accidentally swiping some dust and grime off part of the water heater, was a sticker. It appears that, contrary to what I was reading and suggestions, the lever must be fully to the left to actually have hot water. Had my first hot shower in at-least a month.. felt so good.

Not sure why everyone is so generous here, and so helpful, but perhaps that's what community is.

So to conclude, it's fully solved. Thanks :)
 
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