I kept having battery problems in a recently purchased MH . After a couple days of dry camping the battery would always need to be re-charged even if we were conservative with lighting and other electrical usage. I measured the current draw with a cheap meter from Harbor Freight and saw a draw of .89 amps with everything off except the refridge. I checked the user manual to see if it specified the amp requirements. I didn't find that but in carefully reading the manual, I read about a "climate control switch". This is apparently something to reduce condensation during hot weather and the manual indicates that continual usage could lead to a dead battery. When I turned the switch off I saw a current draw of only .1 amp. This is not too bad but I wonder if even this is normal. I think I had everything disconnected, even the propane gas detector. Have any of you had the same experience?
Refrigerator amperage
- Thread starter vandovjv
- Start date
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Conquest aka Robert
Well-known member
My fridge has the same switch and yes it will drain the battery very fast. I keep mine off all the time. Mine came with the hybrid marine battery yes I do mean 1 battery for house and 1 for coach. The second reading sounds about right to me.
If you are saying your phantom load is 1/10th of and a,p and your refrig is using less than an amp/hr you are doing very well. Two days of boondocking on one battery without recharging sounds very good also.
Just a couple of type 1141 light bulbs can use 3 amps an hour so it doesn't take long to use up 50% of a single storage battery. You will need some means of recharging your battery daily.
Just a couple of type 1141 light bulbs can use 3 amps an hour so it doesn't take long to use up 50% of a single storage battery. You will need some means of recharging your battery daily.
Mavarick
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- Jan 30, 2011
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Two things that will make a difference on current draw is where you are taking the reading and what year is your MH. On mine (2003) I have enough electronics (trans, clock, radio memory) if I am checking at the battery I will see almost a .5 amp draw with appliances shut off. I have 3 batteries and have to recharge almost every day.
.89 amp draw seems low for a fridge that is on even with climate control off. Mine takes a full amp just to maintain temperature so I guess it depends what size and type fridge. If these readings are correct I would say you are as efficient as possible.
.89 amp draw seems low for a fridge that is on even with climate control off. Mine takes a full amp just to maintain temperature so I guess it depends what size and type fridge. If these readings are correct I would say you are as efficient as possible.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Your fridge battery draw is normal. In fact, your overall background power draw is excellent. Various circuit boards in the rig draw power at all time to stay alive and respond to the switches and dials that activate them. Examples are water heater, fridge, furnace, any 12v powered audio equipment, LP detector, thermostat, etc.
fastrak100
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- Feb 14, 2011
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Doesn't your fridge run on lpg? Or don't MH's do that?
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I have yet to see anyone ask how big your battery is.
G-24, about 70-75 amp hours
27, around 90
29, around 100
31 About 120
Six Volt pairs, normally 220 amps
that's each
You can use at best 1/2 of what is in the battery
2 days is 48 hours
48 hours at .89 amps 42 amp hours, that's "DEAD on a 24 or 27 and seriously close on a 29.
G-24, about 70-75 amp hours
27, around 90
29, around 100
31 About 120
Six Volt pairs, normally 220 amps
that's each
You can use at best 1/2 of what is in the battery
2 days is 48 hours
48 hours at .89 amps 42 amp hours, that's "DEAD on a 24 or 27 and seriously close on a 29.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,635
The climate control switch controls a heating element surrounding the refrigerator and freezer door openings. It's designed to warm these surfaces slightly so moisture doesn't condense on them when warm, humid outside air meets the cooler air inside the fridge.
You can leave it off unless you're seeing lots of condensation around the door frames.
You can leave it off unless you're seeing lots of condensation around the door frames.
2010 Huricane
New member
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- Dec 1, 2010
- Posts
- 3
I used to have the same issue. This is just a recommendation,,, of course. Try installing a solar panel between 30 to 60 watts, on the roof. This more than capable of keeping your battery or batteries charge. I garanty you you will never have to worry about the batteries running dry. Another thing try doing it yourself and buying the solar panel with a battery regulator, and the cable for the solar panel. I have installed a 60 watt panel with all the mention regulator and wires. You can see all kinds of ways of how to do it yourself on youtube. Last note,,if you take it to a RV repair shop,,,It will cost you an arm and a leg. look on the web for RV solar panel kits, then you'll have plenty to choose from. In the long run it will pay it self,,my cost $211.00 drls total. I have used them before in my toybox, and I never worry about my batteries anymore even if is in storage. Batteries are always charge.
