Replacing Norcold N811RT with Unique UGP-290 DC Refrigerator

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sc4668

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Apr 18, 2017
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Brooklyn, MI
I have a 5th wheel with the Norcold N811RT and am thinking about replacing it with the Unique model UGP-290L Refrigerator that has the DC compressor. Home Depot has them for $1200, I think this should work for me since I do not have the room for the big 110volt residential refrigerator.  I have 4 6 volt GC2 batteries so I do not see a problem with battery power. The size looks like almost a direct fit except for width new is 1/4 wider. Has anyone done this and how is it working would like some real world experience. The Norcold is working great just want to get rid of the absorption refrigerator. I want hard ice cream and faster cool down only 4 hours instead of 24 hours.
 
I went to the HD site and looked at the installation manual.  It highly recommends 3 inches clearance on all sides since it uses the outside walls to transfer the heat from the cabinet.

Just wanted to  pass the along as it could become an issue.
 
Holding up good, holding a good charge. I am a happy camper. Thanks again for them. How are you going after your procedure, hope all is good.
 
grashley said:
I went to the HD site and looked at the installation manual.  It highly recommends 3 inches clearance on all sides since it uses the outside walls to transfer the heat from the cabinet.

Just wanted to  pass the along as it could become an issue.
I also saw that the owner/install manual calls for 3" clearance on the sides & rear, and wonder why.  I can see a good clearance in the rear where the heat from the compressor and refrigerant cooling coils would be located, but why the sides.  I would expect the sides would just be the insulation and actually adding additional foam to the outside of the fridge would help. 

I would be tempted to install the fridge with extra insulation on the sides and top, along with a muffin fan at the top rear of the fridge to help pull out the heat from the compressor and refrigerant to the outside of the RV.

The manual also calls for "ventilation" for the fridge, but doesn't supply details.  Probably would be good to keep the old roof vent or if in a slideout the upper wall vent that were there for the gas/elect fridge.
 
I have this vague recollection from another site that somebody checked with Unique on the clearance requirements and the 3” on sides was really intended for a propane unit they make.  If I remember correctly, the 12V model only needed back and top clearance for ventilation?  I sent a note to the manufacturer to verify.
 
According to the installation manual, heat removed from the fridge is dissipated through the side walls, not the back, and the space is required for the unit to operate efficiently.
 
I'd bet that a little research would turn out that a residential fridge plus inverter  would be just as efficient as the 12V fridge and probably less expensive (based on the prices for RV fridges from the same manufacturer).

Ernie
 
I got a reply back from Unique on clearance, here it is:

We do recommend 3 inch clearance around the unit as the more ventilation you leave, the better our dc units will operate.

The most critical clearance is at the back of the unit. If you leave less clearance at the sides than we suggest leaving a 4 inch clearance at the back.
 

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